Search Results for ""

This page, and the other pages hosted on the same site, are the 1000 Already Answered Questions FAQ for Diamond-Star Motors vehicles. The name is often abbreviated to 1000AAQ.

It was initially developed by Sean Costall who gathered and entered much of the info you see now. 10 years ago, this was fantastic, but times have changed. New methods have been found to increase HP and what was amazing 11 sec DSMs are now 7 second AWD DSMs.

This site has a new look, new functionality and we aim to make it the ultimate place to get information about your [DSM].

No. The Talon Digest is (or, at least, was) an email mailing list. This is a website. DO NOT send email intended for the Talon Digest to any address shown on this website.The talon digest is no more. Not even the wayback machine has copies (thanks to robots.txt)

All reference to the talon digest will be removed. Todd Day, you did an amazing job back in the day. Unfortunately, it is time to move on.  Should you ever recover a backup, we will be glad to integrate information into the DSMBible.

"The Talon Digest has been unofficially discontinued since September 20, 2002 when the last issue was mailed out. I say "unofficially" because there was no announcement from the list moderator that he was going to cease operations. Rather, the hiatus was expected to be temporary and brief.

At this time the fate of the Digest is not known. It is likely, however, that it will never resume operations. The same might be true of the main www.dsm.org site, and the Talon Digest archives, both of which have been in and out of service. This is unfortunate, since these sites were the central rallying point for all DSMers in search of information.

With the demise of the main Digest, Forums have taken over as the primary communications method among DSM owners.

It must be noted that the Talon Digest existing by the desire of the list owner, Todd Day. Todd spent more than ten years in meticulously daily editing of dozens of submissions, creation of unique and customized mailing list software, and construction of some of the best DSM websites ever to be seen. He rarely ever took a "day off" from these tasks, even when away from home. The workload he experienced can only be compared to that of a full-time IT position for a medium-sized business, yet he received no payment for these services, and still managed to keep a full-time conventional occupation, race his car, co-ordinate other DSM website, disassemble the unique code of the DSM ECU, create his own ECU customization business, and have a good time doing it.

Those who might be dismayed at the demise of the Digest and decline of www.dsm.org should consider three points very seriously:

Firstly, Todd's decade-long dedication is unquestionably one of the greatest - if not THE greatest - donation of time and effort, by any individual, anywhere, at any time, to the DSM community. Anyone who suggests otherwise is obviously ignorant of history and does not deserve a reply.

Secondly, his efforts directly resulted in the DSM resources that exist today, including this FAQ, the VFAQs, and the subregional boards with their UBB systems. Todd literally started it all.

Thirdly, these resources all exist because someone wishes them to exist. Those who whine about how valuable resources such as the archive search, pics.dsm.org and the main website are gone (or in decline) would be better off devoting their efforts to helping to restore these resources to the DSM world."

R.I.P. Talon Digest 

The purpose of the DSMFAQ website is to provide owners of Diamond-Star Motors (DSM) cars an additional on-line resource for locating information. This site contains answers to many of the most frequently asked questions regarding DSM cars, their operation, modifications, performance and so on. 

These pages are not the only on-line resource for DSM owners. If you Google DSM Forum, you will find a vast library of information. Some of which you will find here.

The website is broken into several sections, each with a specific focus of information. The subjects include answers to common questions involving common problems, recalls, operation, modifications, performance, racing, equipment, wheels, tires, instrumentation, and so on. Since the content of the site might change at any time, please use the search above to target specific keywords.

If you would like to share the QA, ensure the URL you use contains the question # in the url. It shouldn't change.
Example: http://dsmfaq.com/q/9 

As of the last update, the information presented at this site is specific to the Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, and Plymouth Laser cars built between 1990 and 1999. There are more answers concerning 1990-1999 cars, and none concerning the 2000+ Eclipse. Please note that this is not a result of prejudice or bias - it is simply that there are more "frequently asked questions" about older cars than newer cars. 

Regarding 3G cars, the 1000AAQ site is a part of Club DSM, a club that largely does not support the 2000+ Eclipse models. Please visit http://www.club3g.com/ for information regarding that generation.

Everything you read on the net should be suspect information. This site is no exception. A healthy skepticism is the hallmark of critical thinking. In other words, unless you know us personally, you don't know that what we're saying is likely to be correct. Even if you know us personally, we could still be wrong! Nobody's perfect!

As the editors of these pages, we personally are not going to guarantee the accuracy of any of this information. If you have not already read the legal disclaimer link at the top of this website, do it now. You are responsible for your own actions (and car).

However, we believe that the information here is correct. We have worked hard to make this site as complete and comprehensive as we can. There may be errors, omissions or plain outdated content that were accidentally introduced through our good-faith efforts, and for those we apologize.

Most of the information presented on this site is an amalgamation of information presented from various sources. These sources include forums, various spots on the Internet, and various printed references such as newspapers, technical manuals and shop manuals.

As with everything you read on the net, you need to have independent verification before you can be confident the information is correct. At the very least, we advise you have at least three independent Internet sources which agree with each other before you come to any conclusions. If you can find at least three sources that corroborate each other, and can't find any dissenting sources, chances are the information is correct.

The information presented here can be verified by doing the necessary research. That is how these pages were created. There are many other sites on the net that can verify the information; many are linked into this FAQ. So check them out!

Yes, please do. webmaster(AT)dsmfaq(DOT)com 

Please keep in mind that we only maintain the DSMFAQ site itself. This site links to hundreds of other external websites that are not under our control. If you find a broken link on one of these websites, or find that a link to another site is down, it is not within our power to correct the problem. In these cases you have to contact the owner of the problem site for a remedy.

We will do our best to do some preventative linkchecking and update content letting you know the external link is down before you click on it. This is another reason very important content hosted by other sites should be archived here.

Special note: As of the time of this writing, the main site of www.dsm.org is experiencing a number of problems. The site owner no longer actively maintains the site, and certain sections of it are no longer available. As a result, the "Search for this topic now!" icons on this site are likely broken. I do not have time to take them all out right now. www.dsm.org still lives, but it will never be updated. There are a billion broken links that we need to deal with. Some content is lost forever. Let's make sure this loss of content never happens again.

Yes, please do. webmaster(AT)dsmfaq(DOT)com

We are not perfect, and independent verification or correction of the information presented on this website is always helpful. Please provide a complete explanation as to why you believe any existing information is incorrect and at least 3 links to different sites pertaining to the correct information.

Special note: As of the time of this writing, the main site of www.dsm.org is experiencing a number of problems. The site owner no longer actively maintains the site, and certain sections of it are no longer available. As a result, the "Search for this topic now!" icons on this site are likely broken. We are working on removing all broken links between 2015 and 2016.

Unfortunately www.dsm.org has fallen into disrepair. The site owner no longer actively maintains the site, and certain sections of it are no longer available. As a result, the "Search for this topic now!" icons on this site are likely broken.

The canadian forum is hanging on by a thread. Most other regions, cities and nations have their own dsm url.  Click www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=DSM+forums to search google for DSM sites.

A few of the most popular are www.dsmtuners.com and www.dsmtalk.com. If you are canadian, hop on to http://ca.dsm.org/ under Bulletin Board (old school lingo for Forum).. We are still kicking.. just not sure for how long.

P.S. DSMFAQ (originally 1000AAQ) are both purely 100% canadian grow sites. While DSMFAQ does have a few american content editors, the website programming rests within the great white north. Eh.

Aside from information as it relates to DSM cars, no. It would be impossible to maintain any type of FAQ with such a broad scope. There is some information that may be generally applied to all cars, but most is DSM-specific and of little interest to non-DSM owners.

Google is your friend. :)

Try the various Internet search engines for sites that may have information relating to your car. Many car makes have club websites similar to Club DSM that provide information and support to vehicle owners.

Whatever you do, don't ask us. We do not know anything about other cars, or resources for other cars. We do not answer questions about other types of vehicles. Google is your friend / uncle.

The Ultimate Bulletin Board (UBB) system is a software package that re-creates the original-style bulletin board systems (bbs) of days gone by. It is a way to create a web-based forum, accessible through the internet, that allows members to post messages to each other. The UBB system is an Infopop product.

UBB's are Forums, and from here on, shall be refered to as Forums.

History Lesson: The DSM-related forums of today are not the Talon Digest of yesterday. The Talon Digest was an e-mail based mailing list. There was only one. It was text-only and did not allow images or attachments. (This was a conscious decision by the list moderator.) Each post was submitted to an automated mailing server for checking and possible moderation by the list owner, who maintained an extremely high standard of conduct and content. The software used was a mixture of public domain and software specially-developed by the list moderator himself. The submitted posts were e-mailed as a single formatted list to all mailing list members at the same time ("digest" format). All of the digests were eventually collected and archived for searching and browsing.

By contrast, the  Forums of today are plentiful and varied. Many allow attachments. The level of moderation varies from virtually nonexistent to virtually military. Most are public, some are private. Some maintain archives of useful technical information. 

What we know for sure is, if you find usefull information that should be properly archived, request us to add the content to this site. We allow archive.org to archive this site as well we will produce montly dumps of the data. There are always 2 admins in charge of the site so if 1 dissapears (like dsm.org), the site isn't locked down and goes into disrepair.

Generally, look for a signup option. You will need to answer all required questions to register. Once registered, you have access to post and may also be able read stuff unregistered users cannot.

Have fun exploring.

Start with: Club DSM Canada,  DSMTuners and DSMTalk. The last two are the two largest user base forums.

Here is a full listing of online DSM sites/forums by Country: (Last checked May 2016)
We highly recommend checking country based ones as they have the largest user base.

Canada

• http://ca.dsm.org/
• British Columbia - http://www.bcdsm.org/forum/index.php
• Quebec - http://forum.dsmquebec.org/

Europe

• Hungary - http://dsm.clubforum.hu/welcome.do

United States

• Chicago - http://www.chitowndsm.com/forum
• Cincinnati - http://cinci.dsm.org/modules.php?name=Forums (no new posts since 2007)
• Colorado - http://www.rmdsm.org/
• Florida (Orlando) - http://www.orldsm.com/forum.php
• Texas (Dallas) - http://www.dallasdsm.org/forums/
• Wisconsin - http://www.dsmsupport.com/

Germany

• http://www.dsmworld.net/forum/forum.php

UK

• New England - http://ew.newengdsm.org/forums/

Technically, a DSM is a car built by Diamond Star Motors, a joint venture between Mitsubishi and Chrysler. More details about DSM are here.

For the purposes of the Talon Digest, the definition of a DSM has been extended somewhat; 

[Note: From time to time, debates on the definition of a 'DSM' emerge on the Digest. These debates usually center around a record-breaking car which, because it does or does not have a certain component or feature, 'should' or 'should not' be considered a 'DSM' in the 'true' sense of the word.

Such judgements are entirely subjective and cannot be resolved, except by arbitrary rules; resist the temptation to reopen any such debate as moderators and membership are tired of hearing about it. All race results that can reasonably be deemedrelated to DSMs are reported - whoever is king in your own mind is best kept to yourself.]

In further news, the now-merged DaimlerChrysler corporation purchased a 34% stake in the now-ailing Mitsubishi Motors corporation in April, 2000. This is not to be taken as a re-emergence of DSM, however - the DSM marque is now consigned to the pages of history.

A FAQ is a file of Frequently Asked Questions, which is exactly what it sounds like - common questions on a subject, and their answers.  This file you are reading now is a FAQ.  Most FAQs provide a great deal of useful information.; novices are strongly encouraged to read FAQs to familiarize themselves with the basics of their chosen field of interest.

FAQs exist for several reasons: 
- To provide a quick and efficient resource for newcomers to the subject. 
- To keep the subject matter of mailing lists and newsgroups fresh and interesting. 
- To prevent repetition of 'simple' questions from irritating and/or boring more experienced readers.

FAQs exist for thousands of subjects on the net, not just on DSMs.  Most newsgroups, mailing lists and discussion boards have a FAQ.  A collection of FAQs on many subjects may be found at the Internet FAQ Consortium, and here.  A DSM-specific FAQ Locator is used to be available but is now out of service.

Maybe we could point faqs.dsm.org to this website?

A VFAQ is a recent term, which stands for Visual Frequently Asked Questions.  A VFAQ is simply a FAQ with pictures, sound and/or video clips that provide more detail on the subject matter.  Tom Stangl is credited with coining the term VFAQ.

Currently, VFAQs are available at www.vfaq.com, also hosted by Tom.   VFAQs deal almost exclusively with the repair, maintenance and performance upgrades of the DSM cars.  These comprehensive guides provide step-by-step instructions on how to install many common DSM performance upgrades.

The Brad Bauer's VFAQ site is not longer operational but can be seen on the internet archive site: https://web.archive.org/web/20010721150657/http://www.myzero.com/

TSB means 'Technical Service Bulletin', a document issued by car makers to dealers that describes known problems and their solutions.  See the Glossary for more information.  The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration makes their TSB database available on the net, as well as recall information.

Chrysler used to produce a technical manual for the DSMs, that dealt less with nuts and bolts and more with the theory of operation of virtually every major component on the auto.  Unlike the shop manuals, it tells you not what, but why. This manual used to sell for a mere $2.00, and is now referred to as the $2 Tech Manual.

Unfortunately for the DSM community, the $2 manual was only offered for the 1990 model year and was subsequently dropped from production.  All is currently lost, though, as Vineet Singh's DSM Backup Manual CD-ROM is offline. It included the $2TM and tons of other great info.

The best places for documents at the moment is: http://lilevo.com/mirage/ 
I have never seen the Vineet CD-Rom, all this content may be what was on it.

Wikipedia: 

Bracket racing is a form of drag racing that allows for a handicap between predicted elapsed time of the two cars over a standard distance, typically within the three standard distances (1/8 mile, 1,000 foot, or 1/4 mile) of drag racing.
 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracket_racing

 You can also check out Michael Beard's Guide to Bracket Racing.

'Autox' is an abbreviation for 'autocross'.  It is a form of road racing done on a closed course, designed to test the overall skills of the driver, and the overall performance of the vehicle driven.  There are autox courses and events all over the continent, including many events in parking lots!

There also exists rallycross, which is like an autocross but on dirt instead of pavement, making it more like a rally (cross-country racing).

Many autocross events in the United States are hosted/directed by the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA), and are run under SCCA rules that put cars with different modifications into different competitive classes.  A copy of the SCCA rules is available here; you can also order them from the SCCA.  The SCCA also runs rally and other motorsport events.

For more information, look at the DSM Autocross pages, hosted by Dennis Grant. There is more autox information in the Corrado Club Water Cooled VW Performance FAQ,

The Shootout is an annual racing event hosted by Dave Buschur, one of the premiere DSM mechanics in the world.  It is considered THE event for the DSM racing community.

The Shootout 2016

Stay up to date by following the events on the following pages
Facebook Event: https://www.facebook.com/events/1581104848837429/
Check https://www.facebook.com/BRShootout for more information about past years.

Support, attendance and participation in the Shootout grows every year.  1998 saw a record 110 vehicles participate in a variety of drag racing and autocross racing events.  Also in attendance were several vendors and significant media coverage.  There are some pictures available from 1995, and 1998.

While there are more and more Evo's and GT-R's showing up , the last reported numbers from 2013 Shootout is 5000 attendees.

Owing to the popularity of the Shootout, the term is occasionally used by other groups running racing events, as in "The Olde West DSM Shootout".  Except for the attendance of DSM enthusiasts, these various events have no relation to the Annual Shootout.

MBC (Mechanical Boost Control)  is a VBC. - A fancy name for a simple bleeder valve. A device (air pressure regulator, aquarium valve, ice-maker valve, etc.) that bleeds off a bit of boost pressure that is supposed to be going to the wastegate control valve, thus delaying the opening of the wastegate. For more information on Manual Boost controllers on Wikipedia

Hallman MBCs tend to be well liked.

Base idle set screw.  This is used to set the basic idle point for your car, around which the ECU will attempt to control the engine speed.  Failure to have the BISS set properly can lead to all kinds of weird idle problems.

Excerpt from: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/biss-screw-adjustment.425941/

Adjusting the BISS

1G (since some 1G questions popped up):

To adjust the BISS properly, you need to lock the timing, ground the diagnostic port, and then adjust the BISS until your RPMs are around 750-800rpm (or whatever you have it set to via Link, chip, etc.). If you don't ground the diagnostic port, the ECU will see the BISS adjustment as a change in idle airflow and will attempt to use the ISC to compensate for it. Keep screwing the BISS, the ECU keeps adjusting the ISC with no apparent change in idle rpm...until it runs out of adjustment range.

The other alternative for ECMLink users (as Brian suggested) is to leave it ungrounded and adjust the BISS while watching ISCPosition, until it reads between 30 and 37 or so.

1G BISS Adjustment

For a 2G:

The concept is similar, but I'm not sure about how the OBD-II handles locking the ISC out of the loop. According to the VFAQ, it requires a scan tool, but I've never played with a 2G so I'll leave it at that. The ECMLink method should work the same on both though.

2G BISS Adjustment

Those who need one will find it listed as Mitsubishi part #MD614948, available from any Mitsubishi dealer.

Front-mount intercooler.  

Intercoolers can vary dramatically in size, shape and design, depending on the performance and space requirements of the entire supercharger system. Common spatial designs are front mounted intercoolers (FMIC), top mounted intercoolers (TMIC) and hybrid mount intercoolers (HMIC). Each type can be cooled with an air-to-air system, air-to-liquid system, or a combination of both. Typically DSM use Air to Air.

It is important to note that FMICS: The larger the tank, the longer the piping, the more lag.  

Meth/Water injection will not cool intake temps as well without an FMIC, but you CAN run without FMIC. Some have had limited success.

Also, an FMIC will add a little intimidation factor to your [DSM].

BOV stands for blow-off valve, sometimes called a pop-off valve or compressor bypass valve. This is a spring-loaded valve mounted in between the turbocharger and throttle body that opens at a preset pressure. It's function is to provide an escape route for pressurized air trapped in the intake system when the turbocharger is spinning and the throttle place suddenly closes. Although many turbocharged cars lack a BOV, its presence makes the car more driveable. Opinion on whether it improves turbocharger longevity is divided.

The original DSM BOVs were designed to open at about 30 psi or so. Unfortunately for 2G owners, Chrylser replaced the metal 1G BOV with a plastic one that begins to leak at about 15 psi. This is a major problem for those 2Gers looking to up their boost, since the BOV will start to leak a lot of useful boost pressure back into the atmosphere. For this reason, 1G BOVs are a popular upgrade on 2G DSMs.

Hardcore 1Gers might also find the stock BOV to leak under higher boost pressures (more than 20 psi). To correct this problem, some owners crush their BOVs slightly, so they will open only at higher pressures. 

BOV crushing doesn't seem to help the valve hold more boost. See What is a crushed BOV?

Owners of highly boosted cars have discovered that the stock 1G BOV tends to begin to open too early. This causes a pressure leak in the intake system that limits boost. The valve tends to leak somewhat at lower boost levels, then opens fully when it's supposed to. This low-level leakage is the problem. The 1G BOV will usually hold pressures to about 22 psi, so this problem usually only appears on cars with upgraded turbochargers.

[2G owners have this problem, times two - the stock 2G BOV can just hold stock boost levels, and tends to start leaking at around 15 psi. 2Gers don't crush their BOV because it's plastic and won't crush. Instead, 2Gers often replace their unit with a stock 1G BOV to eliminate the leakage problem. This works until they too reach the limits of the 1G BOV.]

One DIY solution proposed to fix this problem is to crush the BOV. This means exactly what it says - stick the valve into a vise or clamp and squish it so it doesn't open as early. This is really a cheap & dirty method of increasing the spring force holding the BOV shut, and saves the operator from having to install an expensive aftermarket BOV. This techique can, however, restrict the amount of air that can pass through the BOV when it is wide open, making it a less efficient BOV, and therefore not as good as an aftermarket unit.

Although the technique is simple, individuals should use caution in applying it since various BOVs and crushing techniques are different. The essential technique is to crush the BOV so that it begins to open when 18-20 inHg of vacuum is applied to the reference port. Pristine BOVs will begin to open much earlier than this. Crushing should be done a little at a time until the BOV responds properly. Over-crushing a BOV may result in poor performance.

As with most information available about this modification, this debate remains incomplete. Regardless, owners of stock turbochargers need not concern themselves, as the stock 1G BOV works just fine with stock turbos. 

The Last Word: Ray Peters supplied this helpful info on this subject:

"My submission concerns the theory of crushing the BOV. My studies of this concluded that crushing it only solves the open at idle problem and has nothing to do with pressure it will hold. In fact the boost pressure HOLDS the BOV closed plus the spring tension. IMO it is impossible for the valve to leak with all that force on it.

Now the other case, idle and closed throttle operation of the valve. The pressure difference between the intake manifold and the upper intercooler pipe determines when the valve is open. So at idle and when there is more than 15 Inches Hg pressure difference across the throttle plate, the valve begins to open. Crushing the valve slightly increases the spring pressure and raises this difference to just over 20 IN Hg. However the down side is it limits flow because the valve cannot travel fully anymore, and increases the pressure spike against the turbo.

I believe this was done as a workaround so one could dump to atmosphere while using a suck through air measurement device (stock airflow meter or equiv). I tested extensively on both a 1G and a 2G and found this information to be true and correct."

Basically, stop being so cheap - buy a real BOV. [Thanks, Ray!]

ABS - Anti-lock Braking System

A computer-controlled system that can "sense", in a braking situation, when one or more wheels have stopped turning, yet the vehicle is still moving. The computer will then quickly release and re-apply the brakes repeatedly, thus giving the driver more control of the vehicle.

Safe braking with ABS by Bosch 

AWS - All Wheel Steering

A system that actively turns the rear wheels (usually no where nearly as much as the front wheels) in the same direction as the front wheels to aid in high-speed cornering and to improve the overall "feel" of the car. The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 and 3000GT VR-4(Stealth R/T) have AWS systems.

3000GT AWS Demo

Air-fuel converter, an aftermarket tuning computer sold by A'PEXi. It is similar in some ways to the PMS and VPC but is generally considered less elaborate. The Super AFC was the basic toy to get but was removed from Apexi's website in 2006. As of 2015, AFC NEO is the new thing.

The original AFC is now known as the "knob-style" AFC. It had physical adjustment knobs on the front for 5 ranges. The "Super-AFC" uses a digital display and pushbuttons to alter settings in 8 RPM ranges, and has separate settings for high throttle and low throttle. The deprecated "Super-AFC II" is similar but adds more RPM ranges and other features to the devices.

Honestly, for the price, get ECMLINK. Lose the AFC route.

EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculator

An emission-control system that directs some exhaust gases back into the intake manifold to reduce the formation of nitrous-oxide (NOx) pollutants. EGRs typically operate off manifold vacuum, and therefore only operate in the off-idle state up to WOT.

EVC - Electronic Valve Control

This device is a basic closed-loop process controller. Its operation is very similar to an electronic cruise control device. You input a desired boost level, and it monitors the actual realtime boost pressure. It then adjusts wastegate opening to maintain a stable boost pressure (supposedly) as engine load and RPM changes. Without a closed-loop control that incorporates an integral correction factor, boost pressure will always vary *somewhat* depending upon engine load and speed. The EVC isn't perfectly "tuned" for all possible engine/turbo configurations, and it is prone to under/over correction at times. The wastegate control is achieved by modulating a solenoid that regulates the amount of air that reaches (and thereby opens) the wastegate.

There are many styles of EVC. Importnat to note that ECMLINK V3 can now control boost as well by using the stock boost control selenoid wires and an aftermarket selenoid.

FCD - Fuel-Cut Defencer

In In Diamond Star applications, this comes with the PFC. In most cases, it appears that you can't buy it separately. The operating principle of the device is that of a frequency limiter. It is connected to the output of the Air-Mass sensor pin 2 on turbo TLE's - pin 1 on Galant VR-4's). The output frequency from the FCD tracks the input frequency until it reaches the limit setting... the output frequency then stays the same even if the input frequency (coming from the AMS) continues to increase. By fooling the ECU into believing that Mass Airflow never exceeds a predetermined amount, fuel cutoff is avoided. Unfortunately, fooling the ECU into believing the engine is consuming less air than it really is, results in a leaned-out mixture once limiting has begun. Because the turbo DSM's are set up to run quite rich on the top end, no harm is done expect possibly in extreme circumstances.

(NOTE: Other "hacks" have been discovered that will serve the same basic purpose: Removing the lower honeycomb section, enlarging the lower AMS inlet, and adding resistors/pots to the baro sensor and thermistor circuits are all somewhat effective techniques.)

Important: Do not use any device to eliminate fuel cut. Fuel cut is there for a reason. If you are hitting fuel cut the ECU believes that you are moving more air than the fuel system can safely deliver. If you are having to eliminate fuel cut with some sort of defender either you have an inadequate fuel system, inadequate tuning tools, or a leak somewhere.

DO NOT decrease air counts without adding more fuel per air count. this will cause you to just run lean all the time and cause exactly what fuel cut tries to prevent. so....
DO NOT put in a fuel cut defender.
DO NOT run a 2g maf on a 1g without a way to balance it out.
DO NOT just lean out your afc to unsafe afrs.
DO NOT turn down your gm maft to unsafe afrs.
DO NOT try and put in larger injectors without fuel management.
DO NOT try to up the fuel pressure without fuel management.

PFC - Programmed Fuel Computer (also PF-CON, FCON)

With ECMLINK, this is to be avoided and is here for archival prupose only.

HKS sells this "piggy-back" computer, and its purpose is to fool the stock ECU into delivering more fuel under certain conditions. It's important to note that this "piggy-back" computer (as they call it) does not exactly work *with* the stock ECU the way that HKS ads might lead you to believe. The PFC doesn't share any data or address lines with the ECU, the only connection it has is thru the lines that originally ran directly to several engine sensors. By altering the signals from these engine sensors, the ECU is "fooled" into delivering an different quantity (usually more) of fuel.

There are limitations with this system, because the factory ECU it still is in final control and has the same limitations.

It should NOT be viewed as a substitute for an self-contained engine computer/control system. A true aftermarket engine control computer will provide vastly greater function and flexibility. The major advantage of the PFC-FCON is that it is fool-proof and very easy to install.

PSI (or P.S.I, psi or p.s.i) is an acroynm for pounds per square inch, a measurement of pressure that is often used in automotive circles. The metric equivalent for psi is the Pascal, although most psi measurements equate better to kiloPascals (kPa). Other units for pressure include the bar and the atmosphere (atm). For the mathematically minded, 1 bar = 14.504 psi = 100 kPa = 0.9869 atm.

'Hg' is the chemical symbol for mercury. It is sometimes used as an incorrect version of inches of mercury (inHG) or millimeters of mercury (mmHG), the unit of measurement for vacuum. This unit was derived from the technique of measuring vacuum by pulling mercury up a glass tube. Vacuum, which is simply negative pressure, is also commonly measured in bars, inches of water (inH2O), and Pascals (Pa). In this case, 1 bar = 29.53 inHg = 401.463 inH2O.

JDM is an acronym for Japanese Domestic Market. It refers to parts that are normally only available in Japan.

A JDM engine is, therefore, an engine that is normally sold in the Japanese market only. Such 4G63-based engines are now routinely imported by some shops as direct replacements for American-spec engines. This is done because JDM engines often come with larger 16G turbos and other enhanced parts not available on American factory engines.

Buyer beware, however: not all JDM engines are equipped with these superior parts, and some configurations may require extra work to put into an American car. In many cases, even the importing shop may not know what they have until they get it and inspect it very closely. Protect yourself and verify that the JDM engine is, in fact, the best option.

Someone who refers to a "JDM transmission" is often referring to the JDM-spec Galant VR-4 transmission that was made available in Japan with a "FWD-to-AWD switch". This transmission comes with extra bolts installed that allow the owner to change from FWD to AWD with a small amount of wrenching. 

As with the JDM engines, JDM transmission authenticity is always in question unless the unit can be inspected in person by the buyer. The chances of getting the correct part are increased if you are dealing with an expert, DSM-centric shop with experience on the JDM components. While many shops like to claim expertise, the fact remains that unless they have done it before, they probably don't know the differences.

Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner. Many DSMers use it to clean out carbon deposits from their engines. Those who need it will find it listed as Mitsubishi part #4318001, available from any Mitsubishi dealer.

How to MCCC treat your engine

With ECMLINK, this should be avoided and is here for historical value only.

A PMS is a Performance Management System, a piggyback engine management computer made for DSMs and other vehicles. As with the AFC and VPC, many DSMers use the PMS as a gateway to higher performance. The good news is that the PMS is more flexible than the VPC, allowing more precise tuning - the bad news is that the PMS is more flexible than the VPC, allowing the operator many more ways to screw up.

Many questions of this type can be answered by the following reference:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number

A V.I.N. is a Vehicle Identification Number, a unique identifier which is assigned to every automobile at the factory. It is essentially a serial number for your car, and contains a lot of information about the vehicle.

First-generation (1990-1994) VIN numbers are formatted as follows:

Digit(s)MeaningValue(s)

1 Country code
4 = USA 
? = Canada

2 Make
E = Eagle 
P = Plymouth 
A = Mitsubishi

3 Vehicle type
3 = Passenger car

4 Seatbelt type
B = Manual (1G) 
C = Automatic (1G) 
A = Driver & passenger airbags (2G)

5 Line code
S = FWD (1G) 
T = AWD (1G) 
K = Eclipse FWD (2G) 
L = Eclipse AWD (2G) 
X = Eclipse Spyder (2G)

6 Price code
2 = Low 
3 = Medium 
4 = High 
5 = Premium 
6 = Special

7 Body code
4 = 3-door hatchback 
5 = 2-door convertible

8 EngineT
1.8 NT (1G) 
R = 2.0L NT (1G) 
U = 2.0L T (1G) 
Y = 2.0L NT (1G) 
F = 2.0L T (2G) 
G = 2.4L NT (2G)

9 Check digit
1-9, A-Z

10 Model year
N = 1992 
V = 1997

11 Plant code
E = Diamond-Star Motors (1G) / Mitsubishi Motor Manufacturing of America (2G)

12-17 Serial number
000001 to 999999

Other DSMs have similar VIN encoding. Check the shop manual of a particular year for more information.

WWD stands for "Wrong Wheel Drive"

AWD DSM owners used this term to poke fun of FWDers to RWDers, and vice versa. 

An 'interference' engine is an engine where the valves and pistons occupy the same space, but not at the same time. The other engine style is a 'non-interference' engine - this design provides enough room between the pistons and the valves so that they never occupy the same space. Non-interference engines are sometimes called 'free-running' designs.

Interference engines are a fairly common engine design. All diesel engines are interference designs, and many imports. Domestic engines have tended towards non-interference designs. Although all engines use timing belts, they are more crucial on interference engines; should the timing belt malfunction, the valves and pistons will likely collide.

While this may seem like a stupid engine design, there are reasons why an engine may be designed as an interference engine. Higher compression ratios are possible, leading to better fuel economy, power, and emissions quality.

Interference engines have the inherent risk of major engine damage due to timing belt failures. See Why is it so important to change the timing belt on a [DSM]?

The balance shaft belt (known as timing belt B to the dealership) is a small auxiliary belt running right next to the main timing belt. It is about 10 mm wide, while the main timing belt is almost 30 mm wide. It is normally called the balance shaft belt because it operates a small, asymmetrical shaft inside the engine called a balance shaft. It can also be referred to as the 'silent shaft belt', since 'silent shaft' is synonymous with 'balance shaft'.

The function of the balance/silent shaft is to smooth out unwanted engine vibrations. The shaft is unevenly weighted. If you were to take a roll of paper towel and cut off half of the 'towel' part without cutting the cardboard center tube, you would have the general shape - more mass on one side than on the other.

The balance shaft belt spins this offset weighted shaft inside the engine block. As it spins, the shaft tends to pull the engine towards the side with the weight on it. As the engine moves forwards, the shaft pulls it backwards, and vice versa. In this way, the engine shake is reduced. Since the shaft helps 'balance' the engine, it may be called a balance shaft. It can also be called a silent shaft, since it not only doesn't drive anything but it also helps quiet the engine down.

There are actually two balance shafts on a DSM engine. One is separate, and is run by the balance shaft belt, while the second shaft is integrated into the oil pump. Both spin in phase with each other.

Balance shafts are not strictly necessary to engine operation, and many engines lack balance shafts altogether. Removing them can increase engine output, as the engine doesn't waste energy spinning the shafts. The engine will run rougher as a result, but most people find the change bearable. Most people also agree that the engine must be properly balanced if you want to remove the balance shafts, to eliminate the possibility of long-term engine damage.

The balance shaft belt is often a culprit in major engine failures. See Why is it so important to change the balance shaft belt on a [DSM]?

See Tom Stangl's VFAQ page. It describes the brake changes and what to do if your rotors appear frozen on the car. [For reference, the required bolts to free stuck front rotors are 8mm in diameter, 1.25mm pitch. Tom Stangl recommends you don't count on them, since often the rotor ends up cracking into pieces instead of breaking off the hubs, so be prepared for the worst.]

For 1G models prior to 1993, and all 1G and 2G non-AWD models, "Big Brakes" refers to upgrading the front brakes to 1993-94 AWD front brakes, which are larger and have more powerful calipers. These larger dual-piston brakes were also used on non-turbo Stealth and Mitsubishi Diamante cars. for the details on this common upgrade.

Sometimes people use this term to describe 1G aftermarket upgrades too, such as Baer 4 piston brake kits, but this is not commonplace on the Talon Digest.

For 2G AWD, this refers to replacing the front brakes with larger non-DSM brake kits, containing 13" rotors and 2 or 4 piston calipers.  Brakes from Mustangs and Corvettes have been considered, as well as Baer 4 piston kits. 

Some people have looked at moving the front brakes from the 95+ AWDs to the 1G cars, but reportedly nobody has done so yet. The swap is complicated by the fact that some 2G calipers use a different brake line fitting, which requires the use of different brake lines. Other than that, they should bolt on in the same manner as the 1993-94 brakes. One enterprising Digest member has looked at Mazda Turbo II calipers, but has not yet mounted them nor matched them with rotors.  Apparantly the mounting brackets are not compatible, either.

While it is true that "big brakes" are Stealth brakes (non-turbo), what most people want to know when they inquire about the Stealth parts is if it is possible to use the extra-large brakes from the turbo Stealth models on their DSM. These massive four-piston monsters are a very hard fit to the DSM family. At a minimum, one would need 17" wheels before even contemplating the upgrade, as the stock 16" rims are likely to hit the brakes themselves.

Fortunately for 1G owners that find even 'big brakes' inadequate, Martin Queckenstedt has found a BIG big brake package from Baer. The kits price out between $800 and $1250 $USD, and combine lightweight 1 or 2 piece 12"-13" rotors with dual piston calipers. Those interested can look up the "Sport" and "Track" kits on the Baer website. There are also other aftermarket 4-piston caliper kits available.

Some potentially useful Mitsubishi part numbers for the big brake upgrade:

• RMB 699 450 Remanufactured Caliper Kit LH
• RMB 699 451 Remanufactured Caliper Kit RH
• MR 493-985 Pad Set
• MR 389-652 Shim Kit
• MR 389-599 Clip Set

The above-mentioned kits include the mounting bracket for the caliper and new caliper mounting bolts.

Fuel cut is cessation of fuel delivery and spark generation by the ECU. It is a pre-programmed response designed to save the turbocharger from utter destruction in the event of a catastrophic wastegate malfunction.

Crankbender@DSMTuners: Fuel cut IS NOT due to low of fuel pressure, too small of injectors, high flowing exhaust, high flowing intake, or large turbos. Fuel cut is actually caused by the ECU seeing more air entering the engine than it was originally programmed to use. This likely cooresponds with an injector duty cycle which is unsafe or unattainable. So basically fuel cut is caused by the MAF seeing too much air. Do not ask what too much air is.

Since fuel cut is caused by the ECU seeing too much air we get fuel cut by increasing the air flow through the MAF. 

You can read the answer to How do I prevent fuel cut? in this FAQ.

There is also a thread on DSMTuners Fuel Cut: What is it? How do I fix it? [merged]

Old Links: For more details, read the ECU Primer, specifically the chapter on fuel cut.

The 'speed sensor' is a little reed switch inside the speedometer assembly. Its function is to tell the ECU the vehicle speed. Since the speedometer is driven by a spinning magnet, the switch 'clicks each time the magnet passes by. The ECU then counts the 'clicks' and knows the vehicles speed.

Those curious about reed switch construction and operation can refer to the Reed Switch Wikipedia Entry 

A 'chopped' aircan is simply one where a significant part of the can has been cut away - in other words, there is a big hole in it. The cut-away portion can be from 1/4 to 3/4 the size of the air can. Some people remove the airbox altogether, and use other methods to attach the air filter to the mass airflow sensor (MAS).

The theory is simple - the stock airbox, with its 'horn' or 'snorkel' air vent at the front, is a significant restriction to the free flow of air into the engine. Cutting or removing the can eliminates the restriction, allowing more air to flow into the engine. There are several FAQs on how to modify or remove the air can.

In recent years some controversy has arisen concerning this modification. The airbox snorkel may be restrictive, but it also ensures the air drawn into the engine comes from outside the engine compartment, where the air is relatively cool. Removing the snorkel allows hot underhood air to enter the engine, and since hot air is less dense than cool air, this is (theoretically) bad for engine performance. There is no doubt that hotter air is bad; according to Bill McGoldrick in his Jan 01, 1999 posting on the subject:

"A drop in charge air temperature of 20 degrees F yields a 1 motor octane drop in octane requirement. Example: a naturally aspirated engine that needed 93 octane at 90 degrees F could run on 91 octane at 50 degrees F. Turbos and intercoolers complicate things a bit but the formula still holds. By what ever means you lower inlet charge temperature, it's cold out today, big intercooler, more efficient turbo, etc., you'll effectively gain one motor octane number for every 20 degrees F you lower charge temperature."

Proponents of modified air cans point out that it is unlikely underhood temperatures will be significantly different from the outside air temperatures while the car is in motion. They argue that any performance drop will occur while the car is at rest, and will quickly disappear as soon as the car gets moving. There is some evidence that this may be true.

Still, it is possible that the performance gain obtained by removing the intake restriction is offset my a nearly equal loss of performance caused by the introduction of hotter air into the engine. Unfortunately, no one has been able to say for sure if this is the case. In the meantime, modding the air can continues to be a very popular modification on DSMs, as it 'has been done before' and nobody has ever reported decreased performance.

Tom Stangl addresses the hot-air problem in his VFAQ on how to do a ram-air intake. The ram air setup includes panels to block hot underhood air from entering the air intake. This type of air blocking panel/ducting is also a common practice among owners of non-turbocharged cars, who have long recognized the disadvantages of allowing hot air into their engines.

Tom also lists some brief information regarding air intake temperatures, but more information on the effect of the stock air horn can be found in the December 21, 1998 Digest in a post by Gary Schmitz (not yet in the archives). Gary found his air intake temperatures 20 degrees Farenheit hotter without the air horn, as compared to the same setup with the air horn at 60 mph. Howard Draper ran similar tests on his GVR4, and found a 60 degree difference between having the horn and not while the car was in motion. 

More opinions on why modified aircans may not be so great come from Greg Campbell, Victor Del Col, Donal Lavoie and Mac Crossett in the Jan 01, 1999 Digest (edited):

"A couple of us did some testing this summer when the temperatures hovered around 100deg [Farenheit] for several weeks.... With the 14B turbo and an open filter (K&N FIPK), temperatures at the MAS were around 135-140degF, or 35-40degF over the ambient air. With 15lbs of boost and the stock intercooler, temperatures at the throttle body exceeded 220degF at WOT! (and maxing out our temperature sensor)

Replacing the [FIPK] with the stock airbox and a drop-in K&N filter, temperatures at the MAS were reduced to ~105degF, or only 5degF over ambient... Temperatures at the TB were reduced to around 185degF at WOT, a significant improvement. With the addition of a front-mount intercooler from a '88 Starion, TB temps dropped to around 145-155degF."

Owing to the continuing debate and somewhat conflicting evidence/results, it is fair to say that the dis/advantages of modified aircans may vary from car to car. In other words, YMMV (your mileage may vary). However, the bulk of real-world testing shows that inlet air temperatures increase when using modified aircans. The debate over the pressure drop induced by the aircan will likely continue for some time.

The 'silencer' is a small circle of zig-zag cardboard inside the back of the air can, behind the 1G mass airflow sensor (MAS). It is not part of the MAS, and appears to have no function other than to quiet things down a bit - in fact, 2Gs have no silencer. It is not the gold honeycomb, which is part of the MAS itself (on the front), so be sure you get the right part.

As for removal, having a shop manual handy makes everything a lot easier.

Performance gains for removing the silencer itself should be expected to be nil; it is not that restrictive. It may provide a slight performance gain when combined with other mods, however, and the removal is simple, making it the first ever 'free mod' for DSMs. It also provides an excellent starting point for newbies who need to learn more about their cars; there is incentive (performance), economy (free) and a difficulty level ideal for non-mechanics (very easy), yet provides a great deal of basic information about the car.

MAS stands for (Mass Airflow Sensor). It is also sometimes called a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.

It is the assembly that measures the properties of the air entering the engine, consisting of three separate sensors. For a complete explanation, please refer to Mike Jackson's excellent DSM MAF Theories Page (Internet Archive)

This refers to a thin, gold-colored grille material located at the front of the mass airflow sensor (MAS). Its reason for living is to 'straighten' out the incoming airflow into the MAS. This is a requirement of the Karmaan vortex airflow sensor used in the MAS. The upper portion of the honeycomb affects the measured air, while the lower portion affects bypass air - air that is not measured by the MAS.

Removing the lower portion of this honeycomb-like material can sometimes help delay fuel cut on 1G DSMs, by adding a few percent more unmetered air into the air/fuel mixture. Some owners, however, complain the mod makes their engine run rougher - the current theory is that the turbulet lower airflow somehow affects the non-turbulent upper airflow where the two flows meet.

Please note that under no circumstances can all of the honeycomb material be removed from the MAS. Doing this will screw up your idle huge, as the MAS airflow measurement gets all screwed up. Only the lower portion may be removed, and generally only on 1G cars.

2G owners often find out they can't remove any of the honeycomb material. Fortunately, since the 2G MAS flows a lot more air than the 1G MAS, the honeycombs should be considered far less of a concern.

You can read Jim McKenna's MAS modification for more information. For those interested in the entire MAS sensor assembly, please read Mike Jackson's DSM MAF Theories Page (Internet Archive)

The 'Cyclone' intake is the air intake system from a Mitsubishi Cyclone, a car not marketed in North America. This intake is a dual-runner system that keeps some runners closed unless the engine is boosting. The Cyclone is thought to provide slightly better power than the stock intake, but the difference is not significant to the vast majority of DSM owners.

Some Japanese Mitsubishi engines can come with Cyclone intakes installed. Those on the lookout for one should know that there are also Japanese "Cyclone" intakes that do not have the extra runners and associated butterfly valves. These were installed on non-turbo cars.

This intake is not the same as the third-party intake that was marketed as the Cyclone. That intake was a 'magic product' and had nothing to do with Mitsubishi. Neither is it the same as products under similar names marketed for non-DSMs.

For more information on the Cyclone, check out this little blurb from Road Race Engineering.

These are engine model designators. 4G63 is the Mitsubishi model number for the Sirius engine lineup, which was built entirely by Mitsubishi. The 4G63 model number was used for 1G turbo, 1G non-turbo and 2G turbo engines; although the engines are somewhat different from each other, they retain the same basic design.

Please note that there are different 4G63 engines, although posters on the Talon Digest almost invariably mean the turbo 2.0L version. Generally speaking, components from one 4G63 can be fitted to another 4G63, because the basic components (head, block, etc) are the same.

420A is the model of the Chrysler-made 2G 2.0L non-turbo engine. Fundamentally different from the Mitsu 4G63 engines, the 420A represents a distinct shift in DSM evolution, as Chrysler took over engine duties on the non-turbo cars. Generally, components from 420A engines cannot be fitted to the 4G63 engines, or vice versa.

For more information on Mitsubishi motor codes and their breakdowns, see this guide from Road Race Engineering and this one from Turboclub.

Read the Wikiepedia Turbocharger Article for everything you ever wanted to know about turbos.

For a comparative listing of DSM turbos, look at Tom Stangl's VFAQ on the subject.

These are Mitsubishi racing turbos, larger than stock. 16G is the short name for the Mitsubishi TD05-16G, the 20G is a Mitsubishi TD06-20G, and the 25G is a Mitsubishi TD06/07 hybrid turbo.

The 16G is a popular upgrade from the stock DSM turbo. It has been said that this turbo is designed for quick spoolup, which improves streetability and performance in application such as autocross.

The 20G is a much larger unit and is generally reserved for serious drag racers. Once the biggest turbo available, the 20G is now considered a "medium" turbo upgrade at best.

The 25G is a combination turbo based on the 20G. Similar to the "big" 16G, it has "mismatched" compressor and turbine wheels: the turbine wheel is TD06 (stock 20G) while the compressor wheel is bigger. 25Gs very new and extremely hard to find.

Read the Top Ten FAQ for lots of technical information on these and other turbos.

According to Road Race Engineering, a 'small' 16G has a standard compressor wheel. A 'big' 16G has a larger compressor wheel. This is the only difference, but it reportedly leads to a 10% increase in flow. The 'big' 16G is standard on the Lancer Evolution III. Please refer to the RRE link above for details.

A Super 60 or Super 60 is a modified Garrett T25 turbocharger, with an enlarged compressor inlet, housing and compressor fan. It is one of those annoying turbos that has one name but several different possible configurations, depending on the parts installed, with some of the more elaborate configurations being superior to the cheaper lookalikes.

An intercooler is a radiator-like device that sits between the air intake and intake manifold on turbocharged cars. Its function is to cool air passing through it. It is often found on forced-induction cars because turbochargers or superchargers heat air as they pressurize it, which leads to a denser but hotter charge. The intercooler is designed to reduce the temperature of the pressurized air to help prevent detonation.

For more information, read Autospeeds Complete Guide to Intercooling.

A turbo timer is an electronic device which permits the car to run for a fixed length of time after the ignition has been shut off. It's sort of the reverse of a remote car starter, which runs the car before the ignition is switched on. Turbo timers usually have user-selectable run times and can usually be installed around car alarm systems.

The purpose of the timer is to allow the turbocharger additional cool-down time before the engine is shut down. The idea behind this came from the discovery that turbocharger systems can get hot enough to 'cook' the oil left in the turbo oil lines after the engine is shut off. The simple solution to this problem is to circulate oil for a longer period of time after the turbocharger has heated up. The turbo timer simply automates this process so the car operator is not forced to wait in his/her automobile until the desired cooling-down period has transpired.

Many DSM owners believe that turbo timers are a sound investment, or at least a prudent one, when weighed against the possibility of turbo damage due to oil lines partially or completely blocked with 'coke', or cooked oil residue. These timer proponents often point to the red-hot nature of the turbocharger after long runs at 55+ MPH as 'proof' that a turbo timer is a good idea. Other owners report they have run just as long and just as hard without a timer or any special attention provided to cool-down times, and still get turbo longevity and durability equal to those cars using a timer.

Driving patterns could also have a significant effect on the need for a timer. Folks who travel at high speeds almost directly to their destination will have higher turbocharger temperatures at shutdown than those who are required to wait at three or four stoplights or who drive through residential neighborhoods at low speeds before shutting down. Ambient temperatures and vehicle modifications are also likely to play a role.

There are several arguments against the necessity for turbo timers. There have been significant improvements in turbocharger design and oil formulation since the time turbo timers were concieved . This includes the advent of pure synthetic oils, which are more resistant to the turbo heat and free of impurities (such as waxes and varnishes) which contribute to coking problems. Turbochargers are also more precise and better lubricated than in previous designs. These facts are often cited as evidence for the case against turbo timers. The most compelling fact is that the majority of DSMers have never used a turbo timer, and yet there have been very few reports of DSMS 'coking' up the turbo oil lines with overcooked oil.

If you feel the need for a timer, many vendors sell them.

The Last Word: You do not need a turbo timer. But it can occasionally be handy.

Knocking (also called knock, detonation, spark knock, pinging or pinking) in spark-ignition internal combustion engines occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder does not start off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front.

The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise point in the piston's stroke. Knock occurs when the peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and cylinder pressure increases dramatically. Effects of engine knocking range from inconsequential to completely destructive.

Knocking should not be confused with pre-ignition. They are two separate events. However, pre-ignition is usually followed by knocking.

Also read How does the [DSM] knock sensor work?

A knock sensor is a device for detecting knock or detonation.

Knock sensors come in various styles. The simplest is just a microphone element that picks up engine vibrations and noise and sends the signals to the onboard ECU. This is the type of sensor used on the DSM cars. Other sensors might do some signal processing or filtering inside the sensor before generating the output signal.

A 'knock LED' is a light wired up to the boost control solenoid (BCS) on the engine. The short answers to the other three questions are: Probably, no, and probably not.

Despite it's name, the 'knock LED' DOES NOT MEASURE KNOCK. [Doubters take heed: it DOES NOT.] All the LED is doing is informing you when the boost control solenoid has been tripped by the ECU. This has only the vaguest relation to knock, as there are many other non-knock circumstances that will cause the BCS to trip. This quite possibly gives the 'knock LED' the distinction of being the worst-named modification in the history of DSMs.

For details on this, read prostreets Build a Knock LED

About the only time that you can be certain the 'knock LED' is reporting knock is when it is solidly on. This indicates a last-ditch attempt by the ECU to limit boost, which can only occur when the engine is knocking for prolonged periods of time.

The LED will also flash when the ECU is attempting to limit the turbo boost (1G and 2G cars); when the ECU is "smoothing" out the normal turbo operation (2Gs); and when the car is first started and the ECU transitions the solenoid from fully closed to fully open (all turbo cars). These occurances are perfectly normal and not cause for concern.

As for the question of whether or not your engine is ok, you will only know that by looking at the operational setup and the circumstances under which you believe you may have damaged the engine. If you have been following the typical guidelines for upgrading your engine, you are probably fine. If you have upgraded your engine past the recommended guidelines or had some catastrophic event occur, your engine may be damaged. In real terms, 99% of people who are concerned about their knock LED flashing have absolutely nothing to worry about.

The Last Word: Anyone who actually takes the time to put in a "knock LED" by now is wasting their time. Not that it was ever really useful to begin with. If you truly want to measure knock, get ECMLINK.

Back in the day, there was a gentleman by the alias vanade that created was was probably the closest thing to ecmlink knock monitor for the 1G.  ECUVIEW is here for historical purposes only.  

Porting is the technique of improving airflow by removing additional material away from a component.  Typical components are intake and exhaust manifolds, turbos, wastegates and oxygen sensor housings, all of which can be opened up to achieve better airflow.  Porting the O2 sensor housing and/or wastegate is an often recommended cure for boost creep.  This uncontrollable rise in intake pressure is often caused by the turbo pushing more air than can be possibly be dumped out of the wastegate and downpipe, despite the wastegate being completely open.

Porting is considered something of an art, with most established vendors claiming that a poor porting job will actually reduce airflow.  Some porting services also come with polishing, which some consider a waste owing to the contaminants present in exhaust air.

Many vendors offer porting services for both new and used components.

Clipping is the technique of cutting away some of the material on the fins of the impeller wheel of the turbocharger.  In other words, to 'clip' a turbo is to make the fins in the exhaust path smaller.  The cut is usually done at an angle of between 10 and 20 degrees - the bigger the angle, the more material is removed from the fins.

This may seem like a dumb thing to do, since smaller fins mean that the exhaust gases will impart less force to the turbine wheel and consequently increase turbo lag.  This is true, but the benefit of clipping is found in the high RPM range of the motor.  At higher RPMs, the turbo may have already surpassed the required user-set boost levels and is not contributing to engine power.

Since the impeller wheel in the exhaust stream partially blocks the exhaust gas flow (by design), it can act as a significant restriction at high RPMs, when the exhaust flow rate is highest.  Clipping the turbo reduces this restriction and allows more air to flow past the turbo wheel at high RPMs, thereby improving airflow through the engine and increasing top-end response.

More details on clipping can be found in a thread on DSMTuners - Exhaust Turbine Clipping

A catch can is a small container, sometimes with a filter, that collects oil blown out of the PCV valve or valve cover intake hose. The idea is to keep the oil out of the intake, which helps keep the intercooler running at maximum efficiency. It has also been reported that the catch can mod can reduce the crankcase pressure, helping to eliminate the problem of having the oil dip stick pop out of the engine. It is necessary to periodically empty the catch can to prevent it from overflowing. Some cans provide a drain for this purpose.

UPDATED: Much of the issue is due to positive crankcase pressure pushing oil into the intake. If you PCV valve is ok and everything else looks good, read up on Jack's Transmissions PCV article. Very interesting. 

Other people have installed a K&N 'breather' filter in place of the stock hose. The filter allows gases to escape but keeps liquid oil inside the block, thus providing the same benefit as the catch can without requiring maintenance. Many believe they are too restrictive, but people have used them with good results. Unfortunately, the breather filter can sometimes allow oil to escape and get onto the engine. We recommend you avoid this method.

A shift gate can refer to one of two things. An internal shift gate is a mechanism on the shifter that controls the 'position' of each gear, and sometimes provides a 'lock' feature to prevent the owner from accidental mis-shifting. However, when most people refer to a shift gate, they are talking about an external shift gate.

An external shift gate is a guide - essentially, a thin metal plate with slots cut into it - installed on the shifter of a car. It provides a positional reference for each gear. It is usually installed in an exposed position, so the driver can see it. Some cars, such as certain Ferrari and Mercedes automobiles, come with external shift gates stock.

It is also possible, on some automobiles, to install an external shift gate as an aftermarket accessory. Owners can do this for looks alone, or as a measure to help keep them from accidentally mis-shifting the car into an incorrect gear while racing.

It is not possible to install a shift gate on a DSM without altering the shifter. The reason is that the shifter shaft overlaps the same space in different gears. For example, the shaft position in third gear overlaps the shaft position in first and/or fifth gear. For this reason, it is not possible to install a shift gate that has separate slots cut into it for different gears. The shaft is also hollow, so thinning it is problematic.

With that said, Kyle Grendall has successfully made a shift gate for the DSMs by changing the shifter shaft.

There are also several methods of making the DSM shifter feel more positive. [TODO]

Water injection is a venerable technique for achieving all kinds of good things in the engine by lowering the combustion temperatures.  This has a cooling effect on the intake air charge, which increases power and reduces the possibility of knock.  This has the same effect as adding extra fuel to the mixture without sacrificing fuel economy.  Additionally, less fuel (a leaner mixture) in itself reduces the possibility of detonation.  A nice side effect is that the water tends to keep the engine cleaner, whereas extra fuel can actually leave more carbon deposits behind.

The theory is simple: water is atomized into the intake air stream, and is included in the air/fuel mixture burned in the cylinders.  Since the cooling effect is not typically needed in everyday driving, the injection system is normally activated by a pressure switch that activates at a preset boost level.  The injection point is either just before the throttle butterfly or before the turbocharger, depending on the exact setup. The water is sometimes mixed with alcohol or other fluids.

Downsides to water injection include having to keep water in the tank, and the possibility that a malfunctioning valve might put too much water into the engine, causing serious damage.  However, the technique has been around since the 1940s and the risks are arguably no more serious than relying on an over-rich fuel mixture to provide the required cooling effect.

Unfortunately, nobody makes a DSM-specific water injection system; several vendors offer generic versions.  Speculation on the subject has been wide and varied over the years, but few people have actually installed such a kit on their cars.  Many people regard it as old technology, while others class it with nitrous injection as an 'unfair' system.  This lack of practical knowledge and a proper bolt-on kit for DSMs has kept the technique from wide application.

Water injection has recently drawn more attention in the Talon Digest, partly because a group buy for the Spearco WI kit has drawn all the WI users out of the woodwork. There is also a little-known DSM Water Injection Home Page for interested parties, as well as the DSM Water Injection Group from Yahoo! Groups. You can also peruse issues of the Talon Digest from January to mid-February 1999 for DSM-specific information.

Related to, but separate from, the water injection systems is the intercooler sprayer, which sprays water or other coolant directly on the intercooler to help it do it's job.  This system provides only minor benefits but is simple, cheap and failsafe, and may be rigged with a pressure switch to activate it during high boost.

Here are some questions answered by Devil's Own Injection Onwer / Operator

Q: How hard is methanol on parts in the car Plastics in the car and in the system:
Methanol in general is harder on alloys than it is on plastics. Most plastics in a car are a nylon 11 /12 or Polyethylene and are A-Excellent with Methyl Alcohol And generaly most all makers use poly or nylon for the transfer hose for this kits. . 

Rubbers in the car and in the system:
Only source of rubber in the car these systems should come in contact with is your hard pipe couplers and they are made from Silicone and its considered A-Excellent with Methyl Alcohol. Now some manufactures sell alcohol injection pumps with viton seals that are C-Fair .  So make sure the pumps have EPDM seals. If they don't say then its probley viton, which you don't want. 

Alloys in the car and in the system:
Aluminum for example is considered meth compatible by some and not by others. When it boils down to it its the grade of aluminum that causes this. Most aluminum go kart tanks that are not anodized will not fair well with constant contact with methanol. Aluminum intakes for example, since they are not under constant contact and they are a lot more substantial would be considered compatible. All of your Stainless Steels are grade A 
Brass, while considered compatible with both water and meth we have found for it to create a coating on the inside of these systems, This is the main reason we use Nickle plating on all the fittings.

Nitrous is often referred to as NOS. This is not technically correct. NOS is the acronym for Nitrous Oxide Systems, a company that has done it's best to become synonymous with the use of nitrous oxide.

The distinction has become so blurred that it was lost even in the popular racing movie "The Fast and the Furious", where characters routinely referred to nitrous oxide systems as "NOS". Interestingly, some claim Nitrous Oxide Systems was a sponsor of the movie. Regardless, however convenient it may be, "NOS" is not a term, abbreviation or contraction for nitrous oxide.

Nitrous oxide is a gaseous oxidizer (N2O) which is injected into the engine intake.  As with any chemical name, "nitrous oxide" is not capitalized since it is not a proper noun.

During the heat of the combustion cycle, it breaks down, releasing relatively large amounts of oxygen into the air/fuel mixture.  Since nitrous is 30% oxygen, compared to normal air at 21% oxygen, more fuel burns in the cylinder, which results in more power.

Also, as the highly-pressurized N2O liquid is introduced into the intake air, it expands.  This expansion requires heat, which is taken from the surrounding air.  The net result is an overall drop in the temperature of the intake air charge, resulting in higher air density (more power) and cooler combustion temperatures (less knock).

A byproduct of the nitrous injection is that the timing on the car must generally be retarded to compensate for the increased burn rate of the mixture. In normal-air applications, the spark is set off before the cylinder reaches top-dead-center (TDC - the maximum height in the cylinder) because it takes time for the air/fuel mixture to ignite. Ideally, the piston reaches TDC just before the mix ignites completely, resulting in maximum power. The nitrous-enhanced mix burns faster, so the ignition must occur later or else the piston will still be moving towards TDC when the mix ignites. This can be extremely hard on an engine. The knock-sensing abilities of the DSM engine computer will help prevent this occurance.

Used by dentists as an anesthetic gas, automotive systems avoid medical industry regulation by mixing in foul-smelling sulfur gas, preventing automotive gas from being inhaled.  It also makes nitrous-equipped vehicles smell bad while using the system.

The amount of nitrous is usually controlled by the size of the injectors ("jets"), which are rated according to the expected horsepower gain.  Some form of electronic or manual control is also employed; on DSMs a favorite controller is a boost-sensitive switch, which automatically kicks in the nitrous delivery at the appropriate time.  Nitrous can also be used directly on an intercooler to cool down the intake air - such a system is called a 'fogger', and provides more cooling but potentially less oxygen.

A "wet" nitrous system injects fuel along with the N2O gas. A "dry" system does not. "Wet" systems are harder to tune since the introduction of additional fuel is an added complication.

Nitrous systems may not generally be used except at full acceleration, over a certain RPM, and (of course) require periodic refills.  Still, there is no doubt that it is an effective way of getting a lot of horsepower.  50 hp systems are common, but it is possible to get over 200 hp, provided your car can handle it.  They also provide unaltered driveability and fuel economy under normal conditions, since the N2O is only supplied on demand.

Those familiar with the movie "The Fast and the Furious" and "Gone In 60 Seconds"will remember various characters pressing buttons on the steering wheel to activate their nitrous systems. This is not normally the case. Instead, nitrous systems are generally set on throttle position or boost pressure switches and activated automatically as soon as the throttle is near 100% open.

Nitrous oxide systems are sold by Nitrous Oxide Systems and many other vendors.  They cost roughly $500-$1000, depending on the complexity and application.

Nitrous oxide systems are not widely used on DSMs, as there is a perception among the DSM community that nitrous systems are a form of 'cheating'; that is, no special effort or knowledge is required in order to make a car fast if you use nitrous oxide.  This is not particularily true - nitrous systems are no more 'drop-in' than a side mount intercooler - but it is easy to point out that most DSM upgrades are full-time, whereas nitrous systems may only be used under particular circumstances. Also, there are no DSM-specific nitrous kits - universal kits work - and the equipment cost is relatively high.

Despite any old prejudices, nitrous systems seem to be coming back into vogue among high-end DSM racers as a legitimate method of producing raw power. Some DSMs have dyno results showing no less than 611 horsepower, 70 of which were gained through the use of a nitrous kit. Cars of this type generally have few options left to achieve big power gains.

Nitrous systems have unconventional uses as well. To the dismay of the competition, some DSMers even fitted a rental Nissan Maxima with nitrous at the 1997 Oklahoma Shootout (the NOS-Xima), showing that even a hopeless family sedan can turn decent times on the bottle.  (Note this is not the same Maxima described below.). Metnal note. Never buy used rentals.

You may want to read the statement and see the pictures provided by Doyle & Victoria Schoenberger, who had a 15 lb. nitrous bottle explode in the rear of their 1991 Nissan Maxima while it was parked in their garage. They experienced significant damage to the home, as well as the total destruction of their car. The explosion was apparantly due to a triple failure - the nitrous bottle heater was wired so that it could be powered even if the ignition was off, the heater was accidentally left on, and the safety vent on the bottle failed to operate. While this can safely be classed as a freak event (or even some type of scam, as some people suggest), it is nevertheless a powerful argument - one must never become complacent when working with compressed gases. When handled properly, they are safe, but any carelessness could result in severe damage or death.

The argument that nitrous is 'cheating' often arises.. This assertion implies that there exist rules (written or unwritten) which govern how DSMs should be set up. Since there are no such rules (unless, of course, individuals get together and agree on a set for their own purposes) it is difficult to justify this position, and Digesters have long since become tired of the discussion - please resist the temptation to reopen the topic.

"Waterwetter" is a coolant additive made by Red Line Oil, a performance fluids manufacturer. It is added to normal coolant to improve the heat transfer ability, in order to lower engine temperatures.

On first glance, Waterwetter would seem to be another 'magic' product. After all, the engine cannot run at a lower temperature unless a low-temperature thermostat is installed. However, it is important to realize that there is a difference between the thermostat temperature and the engine temperature. The thermostat regulates coolant temperature. The engine block, which is creating heat during the combustion cycle, is at a higher temperature.

If the coolant has poor heat transfer characteristics, the coolant is unable to absorb heat from the block and carry it away. This leads to a significant difference in temperature between the block and the coolant, with the block becoming hotter. Improving the heat transfer characteristics of the coolant allows it to absorb more heat, making the block run cooler.

The reverse is true at the radiator. A fluid with poor heat transfer may not be able to transfer the accumulated heat to the radiating surfaces. This can lead to heat buildup in the cooling system.

Whether Waterwetter is 'worth it' is up to the individual. Few people report performance gains with it; rather, it is viewed as simply a prudent thing to use.

Majority of Summer only DSM owners run Distilled Water + WatterWetter only with no ill effect. Some say that a little more lubrication is required for the water pump so 80% Distilled Water / 20% Coolant + Water Wetter.

If your DSM sees near freezing temps, no less than 50/50. Unless you want to blow your freeze plugs.

A 'short block' is an engine that includes only the following components:

• the engine block (the 'bottom half' of the engine, where the pistons are);
• the pistons, piston rings, and connecting rods;
• the crankshaft; and
• all the bearings and fasteners for the above.

A short block could be defined as a complete 'lower half' of an engine. However, short blocks usually do not have an oil pump, oil pan, or water pump.

A 'long block' includes all of the components for a short block, plus:

• the head(s) (the 'top half' of the engine, where the valves are);
• oil pan;
• camshafts;
• valves, lifters, and springs; and
• intake or intake manifold.

A long block is not a complete engine. Missing parts include carburators or injectors, exhaust manifold, turbocharger(a) or supercharger(s) (if any), intercooler(s) (if any), and so forth.

A 'balanced' engine is an engine constructed of components that are as evenly weighted as possible. This allows the engine to operate with as little vibration as possible.

For example, if you rotate a shaft that is heavier on one side than the other side, the shaft will "pull" towards the heavy side. This is how the vibration mechanisms in pagers and cell phones work - by spinning an unevenly weighted shaft on a motor.

This sort of an effect is generally undesireable in a automobile engine, and most manufacturers try to make the rotating components as symmetrical as possible. Larger components, such as crankshafts and flywheels, must generally be very close to ideal to prevent unwanted engine shake in consumer automobiles. Unfortunately, economics often dictate that less-than-ideal parts be used, and some engine vibration is generally tolerated.

In general, to balance an engine, all of the rotating parts need to be balanced - sometimes individually, and often as a set. This involves removing material from the 'heavy' side of the rotating components, either by drilling holes, or machining off some material. Special machines are often used to spin the components at the operating speeds, to identify which sides are the 'heaviest' on the complex mechanical shapes used for today's engines. In other cases, components are matched, by weight, to each other. Tolerances on such matching generally stay within 1/2 of a gram.

The net result of a balanced engine is generally a smoother-operating engine, sometimes with a touch more power output than before. It is often performed on racing engines, which require not only peak power output, but are frequently stripped of the other mechanisms that would normally reduce engine shake and noise. It is a labor-intensive and sometimes expensive procedure.

A 'blueprinted' engine is an engine that has been remanufactured to conform exactly to the manufacturer's official specifications - the blueprints, as it were.

You might assume that an engine costing thousands of dollars would already conform to spec. Well, it invariably does, but only within a certain tolerance. Automotive manufactuers already make engine parts (and other components) to tolerances that would have been economically impossible just a few years ago, but economics still plays a factor. To make a 'perfect' engine would require such exacting checks, and such frequent remanufacturing of parts, as to be impossible on a mass scale.

On an individual scale, though, it is certainly possible - given enough time and labor - to build a 'perfect' (really, a near-perfect) engine. Such an engine would realize its peak power output, best fuel economy, and best possible emissions quality due to the 'ideal' interaction between all of the components. Of course, few people need such a machine, and blueprinting is normally reserved for high-performance racing engines.

A stroker motor is any engine that has been modified to increase its displacement by extending the length of the piston stroke. This involves changing the crankshaft, and possibly the connecting rods and pistons, to increase the maximum combusion chamber size inside the engine. Compression ratios may also be changed, or the design may involve using additional parts to negate this. The net result is usually an engine with significantly more power than the regular engine but lower revving.

A 'bored' engine is an engine that has larger-than-factory pistons installed in it. This involves machining the piston chambers in the block to a larger size, and the installing oversize pistons to match. This again increases the displacement of the engine, and allows the user greater flexibility in choosing their overall compression ratio. The intention, again, is to eke more power from the engine.

If both of these methods are used on an engine, the engine is said to be 'bored and stroked'. Since performing one process usually takes a significant amount of labor, many people find that they may as well do both. Also, people who really want the power are likely to really want to do both. Both methods involve modifying the lower half of the engine.

The stroker motor is an extreme (and extremely expensive) method of increasing power; it is not a popular mod on DSMs or any other car because of the high initial expense, overall complexity and relatively small margin for error. 

One little-known but useful fact for overbore proponents is that Mitsubishi sells factory overbore pistons. 1G owners can purchase 0.25mm, 0.50mm and 1.0mm overbore - 0.50mm and 1.0mm overbore are available in 2G style. Since the pistons are interchangeable between 1G and 2G engines (with accompanying changes in compression ratio), these provide additional options to the engine rebuilder. The best part is price - at the time this page was last updated the cost for the 2G pistons was less than $40 ($US) each.

"Knife edging" is the practice of "sharpening" the motor crankshaft so it is no longer round. The major benefit to this technique is reduced rotational mass. Also, the edges are said by some to reduce the resistance of the crankshaft as it is dipped into the oil in the bottom of the engine.

Knife edging is an esoteric technique and is not usually done unless a complete engine rebuilt is already intended.

The jury is still out on the benefits.

Cryogenic treatment is the process of using extreme cold temperatures to mechanically strengthen a material. One of the newest processes available to automotive enthusiasts, it generally appears to fall into the category of a magic product.

Unfortunately for those seeking a clear answer, discussions on the Digest have revealed that there may be some benefit to properly done cryogenic treatment in specific limited applications. Specifically, the materials must be high alloy steel. Low carbon steel, iron, aluminum, nylon, natural or synthetic rubber, polymers and plastics apparantly cannot benefit, since the cryogenic process is designed to convert austenite into martensite, and these substances only exist inside steels.

Wayne Kasel-Zuzek, who is by profession a metallurgical engineer, also believes that the cryogenic process may only be applied during manufacture as part of the quenching (cooling) process for steels, and that post-quench cryogenic treatment does nothing. His theory is that if a room-temperature quench does not produce the desired amount of martensite, then a cryogenic quench may achieve the desired (or, at least, a superior) result. He also points out that quenched steels, regardless of manufacture, must be tempered prior to use, since martensite is a desireable intermediate stage but is too brittle to be used as a finished product. Once the steel is tempered, he believes there is little that the cryogenic process can accomplish.

Here is a good starting point for reading up on Cryogenics

Also know as the circle of forces, the 'traction circle' is not a real thing. It is a concept - a model for describing tire grip on a car.

The basic principle is simple: tires can only grip so much, in any direction, before they lose grip and start to slide. The sliding is caused by force on the tire. The forces are caused by acceleration, braking, cornering, or some combination of these.

Using a bit of simple physics, the tire grip can be represented by a circle surrounding the contact patch of the tire. The bigger the circle, the more traction the tire has - hence, the term 'traction circle'. If tires gripped equally well in all directions, the 'traction circle' really would be a circle. Since most tires don't, the traction circle is usually oval shaped.

Although it is difficult to actually model a traction circle for any given tire, the concept is helpful to performance drivers because it perfectly describes the relationship between braking and cornering grip on a tire. If the driver stays within the traction circle of the tire, the tire sticks. Stay on the edge, and you are getting the maximum possible grip for that tire. If the driver exceeds the limits of the traction circle, the tire slides, leading to a loss of both tire grip and control.

Several factors influence the traction circle for a tire: tire type, driving surface, load (weight) on the tire, and the amount of tire in contact with the road, among others. Since the traction circle is a general concept, it can be applied either to individual tires (one at a time) or to the car in general (all four tires at once).

Here is a great wikipedia article on Circle of Forces

Camber angle is the angle made by the wheels of a vehicle; specifically, it is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheels used for steering and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear. It is used in the design of steering and suspension. If the top of the wheel is farther out than the bottom (that is, away from the axle), it is called positive camber; if the bottom of the wheel is farther out than the top, it is called negative camber.

Camber angle alters the handling qualities of a particular suspension design; in particular, negative camber improves grip when cornering. This is because it places the tire at a better angle to the road, transmitting the forces through the vertical plane of the tire rather than through a shear force across it. Another reason for negative camber is that a rubber tire tends to roll on itself while cornering. The inside edge of the contact patch would begin to lift off of the ground if the tire had zero camber, reducing the area of the contact patch. This effect is compensated for by applying negative camber, maximizing the contact patch area. Note that this is only true for the outside tire during the turn; the inside tire would benefit most from positive camber.

Read more here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle

The wheel is never located directly under the shock/strut mounting point on the car.  The amount by which the wheel leads/trails the mounting point is caster.  Positive is wheel ahead, negative is wheel behind.

In more detail, from a post by Kris Rozon:

"Think of caster as the amount the actual wheel is either ahead, or behind the top strut mount. If the wheel is ahead of the top mount, as in one of those Harley's with the big Chopper-Bar front fork things, then that is positive caster.

If you had negative caster, that is the same as a shopping cart's rear wheels. They trail the mounting point.

The more positive caster you have, the tighter the steering and the more the steering wheel will want to center itself. I am not aware of any side effects of too much caster, but there must be some. Obviously too much negative caster would be bad (kinda like the wobbly wheel on the shopping cart).

So, if one wheel is a great amount more negative or positive than the other, then you will notice a pull in the steering wheel. This is what some on the digest have experienced regardless of numerous alignments and tire balances. The steering wheel will also seem to turn one way better than the other. The front of the DSM is not alignment-friendly."

Some have reported that too much positive caster promotes road wander. Ernie Coursolle (Dakota) pointed out, based on his experience with pre-86 Corvettes, that not enough positive caster may also cause wander. The '84 'Vette reportedly tended to wander around a lot with only 3 degrees of positive caster. Once the specs were changed in 1986 to 6 degrees, the 'Vette lost the wander, and realigning the '84 to '86 specifications eliminated the wander on the older car. Still, most agree that extreme positive caster is a bad thing, which simply means that too much of a good thing is just as bad as not enough - just like everything else.

Oversteer is when the rear of the car tends to move towards the outside of a curve. This is a familiar situation for those familiar with RWD vehicles, especially in slippery or wet conditions. Oval racing fans refer to this condition as 'loose' and know from experience it causes a lot of crashes as the rear ends of the stock cars lose traction. RWD vehicles tend to oversteer, while FWD/AWD cars tend more towards understeer. What is understeer?

Those interested in handling will find Dennis Grant's Far North Racing site a must read.

Perhaps harder to visualize than oversteer, understeer is where the front of the car tends to push towards the outside of a curve. This is the opposite of oversteer, and is difficult to understand intuitively. Oval racing fans call this 'tight' handling, and while it does not tend to cause crashes, it tends to slow the drivers down a fair bit, as they constantly fight the wheel to keep the car on the curve.

Northern residents are perhaps the most familiar with understeer from driving in icy conditions; that awful sensation you get from turning the wheel and finding the car keeps going in a straight line! This is understeer at it's worst - the complete loss of front-wheel traction. Understeer is commonly referred to as a 'push' (with the car 'pushing' into the turns) perhaps because it seems like something is shoving the front end of the car away from the desired turning line.

FWD cars tend toward understeer partly because of the location of the drive wheels, and partly by design - understeer is considered an easier condition for the average driver to handle. AWD cars are usually based on FWD platform, so they inherit the basic handling characteristics, including understeer. Both FWD and AWD DSMs tend to understeer a lot, a constant annoyance to those drivers wishing to corner quickly.

You can also check out What is oversteer?

Those interested in handling will find Dennis Grant's Far North Racing site a must read.

This is generally wheel hop, also known as a convenient automatic windsheild wiper activation feature. Both AWD and FWD DSMs apparantly suffer from this, in proportion to other mods; FWDs tend towards front wheel hop, AWDs prefer rear hop.

Not really caused by wheels bouncing, wheel hop occurs when the tires are getting/loosing grip in rapid sucession. Wheel hop tends to stress transmissions, differentials and other driveline components quite badly. It has also been posted that the majority of center differential failures are directly related to wheel hop. Slicks, stiff suspensions, hard launches and burnouts promote wheel hop, and the resulting driveline failures.

Mark's solution (provided by Road Race Engineering) involves filling the stock engine mounts with polyurethane rubber to make them stronger.

Other FWD solutions include: equal tire pressures (left to right), lower tire pressures, softer suspension, a front sway bar (not strut tower brace) and less drastic launch techniques. AWD solutions include: equal tire pressures, softer suspension, and less drastic launch techniques.

Scott Willard describes his experience with a loose driveshaft striking the bottom of his car. This is not the same as wheel hop but has the same symptoms - he describes a test to differentiate between the two conditions. AWD cars which exhibit a thumping from the rear are likely to have this problem, which is caused by worn carrier bearings. The solution to this problem is listed on the VFAQ Locator; the $5.00 Carrier Bearing Fix page has the details.

"Chunking" is when the bond between the tire tread and the main body (carcass) fails, and large pieces of the tread fall off of the tire. Most motorists will remember seeing large pieces of tire tread left on the side of the road by passing 18-wheeler trucks. This is a similar problem aggrevated by the routine use of retreaded tires in the trucking industry.

Most enthusiasts who experience chunking are road racers of some type. This is because the tire heats up much more during racing. A race tire also experiences much larger forces due to cornering and its own rotational speed.

From Keith Sontheimer in the May 19, 2002 Digest:

"I've been told by several tire experts, chunking happens when a tire's tread heats up unevenly (top to bottom). If the outside of the tread block closest to the road heats up substantially quicker before the rest of the block closer to the carcass does, then chunking can occur.

Usually this happens when you go out on the track, and begin pushing your tires too soon. They haven't had a chance to heat up all the way through, and the chunking begins. It usually takes 3-5 easy laps at 75-80% of the pace you normally run to heat them up, depending on the tire."

A strut tower brace is a metal bar that connects two shocks (either both front or both rear) together at the top. In this context, the shock/strut assemblies are called "strut towers". A front brace is located in the engine compartment under the hood, while the rear one is located in the hatch or trunk area.

The function of a strut tower brace is to reduce the amount of movement of the shocks under hard cornering. The brace stiffens up the car frame and helps prevent the wheel from being temporarily "bent" out of place as cornering forces try to push the wheel to one side. It also keeps the two opposing wheels from moving out of place relative to each other - keeping the two struts connected together helps this. The net effect is an improvement in cornering and in suspension "feel". Most DSMers report improvements after installing a brace.

Most braces are adjustable. Since the bar can be lengthened or shortened (put under tension or compression) most new owners are concerned about adjusting the brace "correctly". The method of installation doesn't seem to be too important. Most people shorten the bar to tension it up - the bars are likely stronger under tension than compression. However, for rear braces, one may want to extent the bar to try and keep the rear tires as flat as possible during hard launching. It doesn't really seem to matter a whole lot as long as the brace firmly connects both strut towers together.

The Last Word: According to non-DSMers, the typical DSM strut tower brace is useless. Firstly, there are hinges on either side, which allows the brace to pivot independently of the chassis - which totally defeats the purpose of the brace. Secondly, the brace midpoint is never attached to the engine bay firewall. "Real" braces are attached to the engine bay wall and are a single monolithic part. Real result or placebo effect? We'll never know.

FAQCHK

A coilover is an automobile suspension device. "Coilover" is short for "coil spring over shock". It consists of a shock absorber with a coil spring encircling it. The shock absorber and spring are assembled as a unit prior to installation, and are replaced as a unit when the shock absorber has leaked. This provides damping without torsional loads. Some coilovers allow adjustment of ride height and preload, using a simple threaded spring perch similar to a nut. More advanced adjustable coilover systems use a threaded shock body, along with an adjustable lower mount for ride height adjustment, while an adjustment knob is used to adjust damping. Stiffness is changed by switching the spring for one with a different spring rate.

Src: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coilover

In mechanics, an 'eccentric' isn't a nutcase billionare - is something that has an off-center hole in it. For example, take a small wheel, with a mounting shaft run through it. In a regular wheel, the shaft runs through the center. An eccentric wheel is just like a regular wheel, except the shaft doesn't run through the center; it runs through an off-center hole.

An eccentric bolt is usually a bolt with a collar on it. The bolt shaft is tapered in the middle to run through the collar, so the bolt is thinner in the middle and thicker at the ends. The collar has an off-center hole in it and is free to rotate.

As can be seen in this sketch, an eccentric bolt allows adjustment through rotation. As the bolt assembly is rotated, the collar moves further off-center. This property is what makes eccentric bolts useful for adjusting and aligning different connected parts. They are frequently used in DSMs and other automobiles for suspension adjustments.

See also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eccentric_%28mechanism%29

A "banjo" bolt is a hollow bolt used in conjunction with "banjo fittings" to connect fluid lines together. Such bolts are used in the DSM fuel and oil systems. The fuel system bolt in particular is considered a restrictive element. Pictures of banjo bolts can be found on the wikipedia banjo fitting page. 

Blow-by is the leaking of combustion gases past the piston rings and into the engine block. All engines have some blow-by, since piston rings can never seal perfectly. Most cars have a vent (the positive crankcase ventilation valve, or PCV valve) which lets these gases out of the engine block while keeping (most) of the oil in.

Read Jack's Transmissions PCV article. 

On DSMs, the PCV valve is connected via a hose to the air intake. Since oil leaks out of the PCV valve, oil gets into the intake and usually gums up the inside of the intercooler. Many DSMers remove the connecting hose to correct this problem. To prevent oil spraying into the engine compartment, they also install either a filter or a catch can [[What is a catch can?]] in place of the PCV valve.

A 'walking' crankshaft is a crankshaft that moves too much inside the engine. This is also known as excessive thrust bearing play. The movement is usually due to the crankshaft not fitting inside its bearings correctly. While not bad for the crankshaft, the movement can place excessive or uneven loads on the bearings, causing premature failures.

Many 2G owners have suffered from walking crankshafts. It appears that Mitsubishi built many 2G engines using defective crankshafts, which were machined out of specification and are thus capable of moving around too much inside the block. All 2G model years appear to be affected to some degree.

To fix this problem, Mitsubishi has designed several versions of matching crankshaft bearings. This allows the defective motor to retain the crankshaft, yet matches the bearings correctly so as to eliminate the excessive crankshaft movement. Matching the bearings in this manner is tricky and requires exact information about when the crankshaft was manufactured, which may be determined by color markings on the crankshaft itself. The 2G factory manual includes information on how to match crankshafts to bearings.

1G owners do not generally need to worry, as there are no chronic problems with crankwalk in per-1995 cars. However, it is possible for any engine to experience crankwalk if there is a problem with the crankshaft bearings. It has been reported that 'small rod' / 7-bolt flywheel motors (manufactured from later 1992 through 1994 on 1Gs) are more prone to crankwalk than 'big rod' / 6-bolt flywheel engines (manufactured from 1989 to early 1992). However, there can be no guarantees, since big block V8s and all other engines can also suffer from crankwalk.

It can be difficult to tell if a particular car is experiencing crankwalk. Symptoms are usually indirect and difficult to diagnose until major damage occurs.

Since the clutch places pressure on the crankshaft, many owners have reported clutch or shifting problems associated with the walking crank. Having the clutch 'stick' down on left-hand turns is often a telltale sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include inconsistent engagement height, poor or rough engagement, difficulty shifting, ticking noises and varying pedal height or pressure. Another possibility is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is down.

Another problem with crankwalk is that the crankshaft may move so much as to literally tear up and destroy the 2G crankshaft angle sensor. This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems.

Unfortunately, cranshaft angle sensor failure usually leads to a replacement sensor, rather than a replacement crankshaft, as mechanics fail to diagnose the underlying problem. 2G owners who have experienced premature failure of the crankshaft angle sensor should investigate the possibility of a walking crankshaft immediately.

Here is a video that Jafromobile made and his take on Crankwalk

For more information, read Road Race Engineering's archive of posts that contains all of the Talon Digest posts about the walking crankshaft problem.

Although 2G DSM owners have been anxiously awaiting a recall or TSB on the crankwalk problem, there is none as yet. It is doubly important that affected 2G owners get their bearings (or blocks, if necessary) replaced before their warranty expires. This might be difficult for owners of aftermarket clutches, as dealerships often claim the aftermarket pressure plates are the cause of the problem.

The 4-door sedan member of the DSM line.  The VR-4 model shares the same unusual AWD drivetrain as the other DSMs, as well as the turbocharged 4-cylinder Mitsubishi engine.  There was also an unusual GSX model, which had the AWD drivetrain driven by a non-turbocharged engine; something you could not get in Eclipse, Talon or Laser cars. The VR-4 also came standard with an all-wheel steering that is unique among the DSM family. More details are available here.

The Galant is no longer in production.

Read more: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Galant

The Eclipse CT was a cabriolet (convertible) concept model of 1G DSM that may have been shown in Europe in the 1990s. It was never mass-marketed, and DSMers had to wait until the 1995 model year before a convertible model was introduced.

Information on the CT is extremely limited. It is not known for certain if the car was ever built at all, aside from a bare few concept cars. However, according to Johannes Schweidler, the car may have been marketed in 1994 in Germany. All of the available literature appears to be in German, which supports this conclusion. However, it was also made in the 1990-1991 body style (with pop-up headlights) which would have been unusual for a DSM marketed in 1994. He also never saw one, which indicates they might not have been sold after all.

This car may have been the precursor to the 1996 Spyder convertible. Kris Kjelstrup also mentions a 1G convertible concept car on display at the DSM plant. Mark Luttrell has also confirmed that a hand-assembled commemorative Eclipse CT was on display in a Mitsubishi factory in celebration of the one millionth car produced there; unfortunately, photographs were prohibited.

If we assume this display concept is an Eclipse CT, we can conclude from posts that the CT was a FWD car. It also seems likely that it used the turbocharged 4G63 engine, as well, since concept cars tend to pack a lot of power.

Unfortunately, some of the on-line information on the CT has already become unavailable. For an idea of what the car is/was like, take a look at these technical drawings.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Lancer_Evolution

Update: As of the 2002 model year, the Lancer is now sold in the U.S.A., but it is not the "Evolution" version. Rather, it is a 120 hp family sedan.

For the 2003 model year, Mitsubishi made the Lancer Evolution VIII available in the USA. It is not available in Canada owing to stricter crash safety regulations, but the next iteration should be available in Canada.

The Lancer came to America some time ago, in the watered-down Toyota Camera-esque form. Recently, Canadians now have the option of buying the Evo. There is a rumour 2015 will be mitsubishi levo's last year.

The Last Word: It's 2016 and there are no new GSR / MRs in sight. Goodbye Evo.

This car is the same as a Galant GSX - a non-turbo AWD sedan. There is little other information available; you can read this description provided by About.com and Allpar. It should be noted that the engine used in the "mighty" versions of the DSM family is presumably the 200 HP 2.0L turbo, not the 135 HP 2.0L non-turbo used in the 2000GTX family.

CFDF stands for Centerforce Dual-Friction, a popular clutch upgrade for DSMs. See the Centerforce web site for details.

The ACT 2100 and 2600 are clutches manufactured by Advanced Clutch Technology. They are popular clutch upgrades for DSMs.

Unfortunately, the 2100 and 2600 designations don't match the part numbers shown on their website. The correct part number for the ACT 2100 kit (disc and plate) is MB1-HDSS; the ACT 2600 kit is the MB1-XTSS. Check out the kits for the part numbers of the respective friction discs and pressure plates.

A 6-bolt engine is one that has a 6-bolt flywheel - that is, there are 6 bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft. A 7-bolt motor has 7 bolts there.

Along with the flywheel change, there are many other internal changes between the two engines. The crankshafts are different sizes, as are the rods and crankshaft seals. 6-bolt motors have 'big' rods, while 7-bolt engines have 'small' rods. The journal and bearing widths different, although the bearing diameters are the same.

There may also be other changes between the two engines, and the parts are not interchangeable.

3-bolt rear axle assemblies have 3 bolts attaching the axle to the wheel hub. 4-bolt axles have 4 bolts, as well as beefier axle cups, and are therefore far stronger. See Tom Stangl's 3-bolt to 4-bolt conversion VFAQ for lots of great information. You can also read the answer to How can I tell if my car has a 4-bolt rear end? in this FAQ.

Mitsubishi and Chrysler dealerships have earned the nickname 'Satan' over the past two decades by the DSM membership. This is because of the numerous horror stories circulated by reliable individuals concerning the quality of service provided by these dealerships. Also, the high cost of factory replacement parts contributed to the name. Apparantly, even the coveted 5-star service rating is no defense against various forms of service stupidity.

In all fairness, not all dealerships deserve the nickname 'Satan'. Some, like Talahassee Mitsibishi in Tallahassee, FL, have offered substantial discounts on factory parts to the Club DSM membership. Many other owners have reported good to excellent service from their local dealers. As with all things, your mileage may vary (YMMV).

Nevertheless, this particular term of endearment is reserved solely for those specific dealerships which provide bad service.

It is always best to shop around for parts and do your own mechanical work on your car. Unless you are rich.

'Blue book' refers to Kelley's Blue Book, a pricing guide that lists the actual dealer costs, manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP), shipping costs, and other pricing information on new cars. The 'blue book price' usually refers to the actual price the dealer pays the factory for a vehicle.

It should be noted that car dealerships don't often use the Blue Book for pricing information. They usually use the National Automobile Dealer Association (NADA) guide. It has been suggested that the Kelley Blue Book listings are not accurate.

Although few people realize it, the blue book is now online at www.kbb.com; the information gleaned from this resouce can be a powerful ally in negotiating a fair price with a dealer. Copies of the 'blue book' and other valuable auto pricing resources can also be found at most public libraries in the reference section.

'Red book' refers to the Automotive Red Book, a pricing guide that lists the selling prices of used automobiles. Less well-known than the 'blue book' the 'official' red book is generally only available in libraries. (There is one online version, but it's for Australia.) Look in the library reference section to find it, and remember to have a few quarters for the photocopier handy.

Paradoxically enough, the Kelley's Blue Book website offers pricing information on used cars, as do lots of other buying guides online, making the 'red book' less valuable than it once was.

Speed shifting (No Lift To Shift) is when you shift without letting up on the throttle. Usually you bounce off of the 7500 RPM rev limiter. 

ECMLINK now provides a no lift to shift feature slightly reducing the strain while speed shifting. The rev limiter is lowered to your preset when you push the clutch in instead of bouncing at 7500rpm or higher.

Power shifting is when you shift without letting up on the throttle, and without using the clutch. It can be done, but is very hard on the transmission. Most people who do this become expert transmission rebuilders (or simply broke, or both) in a short period of time. Most Dogbox manufacturers don't even recommend no clutch and recommend a blip of clutch. (cut load for a brief second)

'Heel-and-toe' shifting is a driving technique that allows the driver to clutch, brake and keep the engine RPMs at a certain level, all at the same time. It is a useful racing technique that allows a driver to downshift without losing speed (or control of the car), expecially when entering corners.

The problems facing a driver when approaching a hard corner at high speed are numerous. Firstly, they want to approach the corner at the highest speed possible, and brake at the last moment, to achieve the fastest entry. Secondly, they need to carry as much speed as possible through the corner, often riding on the very edge of losing control over the car. Thirdly, they need to shift gears downwards in order to select the correct gear for the duration of the corner, as well as allowing maximum power on corner exit. Fourthly, they must ensure that when they shift gears, the engine speed is high enough to allow the new gear to engage without adversely slowing down or speeding up the drive wheels. Failure to accomplish this last point may mean a loss of control - remember, the car may be on the ragged edge, and if the engine forces the wheels to change speed the car may begin a skid or spin from which the driver cannot recover.

While this would normally take three feet - one for each pedal - to clutch, brake, and accelerate all at the same time, ordinary two-legged people can accomplish this by twisting their right foot into a position that allows it to touch both the brake and gas pedals at the same time. While several different positions are possible, most people adjust the foot so that the toe is on the brake, and the heel is on the gas - hence, 'heel-and-toe'. Some drivers prefer to have their right foot 'straddle' the brake and gas, using the sides of the foot to control pedal movement. The exact position depends on the driver and the pedal configuration in the automobiles - some cars are better set up for heel-and-toe than others.

In this position, the driver can brake (right toes) into the corner, clutch (left foot) and shift gears, and hit the gas (right heel) to bring the engine speed up to the desired level. He can then declutch and enjoy a smooth transition into the selected lower gear, reducing or eliminating the risk of a rough engagement that might upset the automobile. From that point, the feet may return to their normal driving positions, and the driver can brake, cruise, or accelerate as the situation demands.

Heel-and-toe shifting, while simple in theory, can be very hard in practice. Drivers must practice a great deal to achieve the necessary coordination. Also, some cars have pedal arrangements that make heel-and-toe shifting difficult. Missed shifts are common for the novice, as is grinding gears. Loss of brake or steering control is also possible, especially when practicing high-speed turns, and can result in very dangerous situations. It is highly recommended that anyone interested in this technique take a specialized driving course, and practice in a venue away from ordinary traffic.

Once mastered, heel-and-toe shifting can make even ordinary driving more enjoyable. Some DSMers have commented that heel-and-toe shifting is not a racing technique - rather, they feel it is the proper way to drive a manual transmission car. Regardless, it can be a useful technique for street driving, although normally only racers need concern themselves with it.

For more information on heel-and-toe on DSMs, try this Heel Toe Video (or search youtube for heel toe).

The terms 'rice' or 'riceboy' are slang terms used to describe visibly modified import model automobiles and their owners. It is used to point out the cosmetic, rather than functional, nature of the vehicle modifications.

'Rice' was apparantly first used in the 1970s when high-powered Japanese sport bikes became available. In that context it was usually well-intentioned and not considered derogatory.

The application of the term 'rice' to import cars was derived from the fact that aggressive cosmetic enhancements were first applied to import automobiles. These cars originate from countries where rice is a staple food. Additionally, these import automobiles were popular among asian owners, who preferred the asian cars over those of American manufacture. So, by extension, 'riceboy' originally referred to an asian owner of such a modified automobile, and was considered by most to be racist. (This probably explains why the term 'ricegirl' never appeared - people are not likely to be politically correct about a politically-incorrect term.)

In addition, these terms hinge on the presence of cosmetic rather than performance improvements. Cars which exhibited primarily or purely cosmetic enhancement, with little or no performance enhancement, may combine aggressive looks with mediocre performance. Referring to these cars as 'ricey' was often meant to be insulting or derogatory by silmutanously pointing out the 'inferior' nature of the vehicle as well as the owners preference for style over substance.

Fortunately, the term 'ricey' has outgrown it's original meanings. The term is now in widespread use on the Talon Digest as referring to any owner of any cosmetically modified car, regardless of their ethnic background, and is no longer intended as a racist slur. It is also no longer used to express disdain for cosmetic improvements, as the general membership has come to recognize that different owners want different things.

Some owners even take pride in their pursuit of aggressive style. Many DSMers are happy to call their cars 'ricey', or 'rice-burners', with some going so far as to install gauge sets that list 'rice' instead of 'fuel'. They express pride in their DSMs ability to match performance and looks against American-made V8 powerhouse automobiles with literally half the engine.

While few performance automobiles are completely without cosmetic enhancements, not all are considered 'ricey'. In general, the more obvious, exaggerated or overstated the cosmetics, the more 'ricey' the car is. Recent trends in import automobile circles have yielded some cosmetic features that are humerous even to their owners, being obvious, obnoxious and useless all at the same time. (One good example recently seen is an Nissan Sentra equipped with a ten-inch exhaust tip which resembles nothing so much as a rocket exhaust projecting out of the rear of the car.)

Please note that because of irreconcilable differences of personal opinion, discussion about the value of performance vs. appearance is not part of the Talon Digest and is generally discouraged on other forums as well. Also, because of it's emotionally-charged heritage, use of the term 'riceboy' should be approached with caution, lest the target accidentally misinterpret the intended meaning.

A datalogger is a device that monitors and records information for you. Dataloggers are often used on racing vehicles, to provide the tuners with better information from which to base tuning decisions.

Although there are several dataloggers available for DSMs, most people who refer to a 'datalogger' mean the TMO datalogger fromTechnomotive, although some might be referring to the Pocketlogger or DSMlink. These extremely useful devices recieve and interpret a continuous stream of information from the DSM ECU, allowing a 'sneak peek' into the 'thinking' of the car.

These products operate using proprietary software and hardware to collect, interpret, analyze and display the ECU information. To do a similar job, a device would have to know the format of the information output by the DSM ECU.

Specific information concerning DSM ECUs and their output format is not in the public domain and might only be found by deciphering the DSM ECU code. Advanced tuners have agreed that the 1G DSM uses the ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) interface similar to many General Motors cars. For more information on ALDL, see this answer in this FAQ.

2G vehicles use the OBD-II system, which is not compatible with ALDL. The OBD-II system was adopted as an industry standard on later model cars. However, the OBD system is slower and has less information available as compared to the proprietary solutions.

It is possible to create a datalogger to monitor the same information that commercial datalogging systems provide. However, to create a comprehensive standalone system capable of matching the TMO logger, Pocketlogger or DSMlink in capability is a formidable task for most people. The job has recently been simplified as freeware datalogging software and ready-made cables have become available.

Those interested in the details of DSM datalogging may find the Pocketlogger FAQ and Technomotive's Datalogger 101 guide helpful.

The Last Word: TMO is long gone, but you can still buy Pocketloggers. At least until all the serial-port Palm units die - there doesn't seem to be a ALDL-to-USB device available (yet?).

TMO is the conventional contraction and website address for Technomotive, the first company to ever produce effective, customized chips for DSMs and to manufacture a DSM datalogger. A TMO ECU is an ECU that has been modified with one of the TMO upgrade chips. The TMO datalogger is a laptop-based data acquisition and recording device for DSMs. For more details, visit their website.

The Last Word: TMO stopped selling chips a long time ago. Anyone who claims to be selling their stuff under license is not telling the truth. Please visit ECMTuning and buy ECMLINK

TMO gauges are a feature of the Technomotive ECU upgrade for DSMs. The upgrade reprograms the useless stock boost gauge on turbo models to display any of five different measurements, such as timing advance and injector duty cycle.

The Last Word: TMO stopped selling chips a long time ago. Anyone who claims to be selling their stuff under license is not telling the truth. Please visit ECMTuning and buy ECMLINK

A Pocketlogger is a datalogger that runs on the Palm computing platform. Aside from operating on a Palm and not a laptop, it is substantially similar to the TMO datalogger described above. More information can be found at the Digital Tuning web site.

DSMLINK is now known AS ECMLINK. 

Palm DSMLink can no longer connect to the ECU since V3.

ECMLINK is a tuning and datalogging product for the DSM Platform. Not just another OBD-II datalogger, DSMlink includes a new ECU chip that allows the factory ECU to be programmed and effectively communicate. ECMLINK is now a PC (Windows/Linux) only software written using Java.

Additionally, it allows the ECMLINK application to re-program the ECU "on-the-fly" to a certain extent, giving the operator additional flexibility by allowing changes to the onboard ECU fuel and timing maps. 

The DSMlink is limited by the fact that it requires an EPROM ECU. 1G version has been developed. 2G has been supported for many years.

If you have any questions regarding ECMLINK, visit ECMLINK Contact Us

ALDL is an acronym for Assembly Line Data Link. It is a one-wire interface used to connect the engine control unit (ECU) to diagnostic computer systems for diagnosis and troubleshooting.

1G DSMs use a version of the ALDL interface. All 1G dataloggers are designed to connect to the interface and interpret the information. 2G vehicles do not use ALDL, they use OBD-II (see below).

DSM enthusiasts did not recognize the ALDL interface for what it was until fairly recently. Because of this the GM hobbyists have much more information available on how ALDL works. There may be differences between the GM ALDL format and the DSM ALDL format since ALDL is not a formalized standard. For more information on ALDL, see these links:

• the free datalogger site
• Andy Whittaker's ECU page
• the Tech Edge GM ALDL interface page
• AKM Cables' very useful GM ALDL information page
• the results of this Google search

"Fuel trim" in the ECU is the ECU's method of tuning individual cars.

In theory, the ECU reads the amount of air entering the engine via the mass airflow sensor (MAS) in the air intake. It will then add the proper amount of fuel through the injectors, ensuring a good burn, low emissions, etc.

However, while that works in theory, it rarely does in practice. MAS sensors vary, even when calibrated, even if only due to age. Injectors become clogged, fuel and turbo pressures can vary, parts wear or are replaced.

The way to compensate for the individual car-to-car variations is through fuel trim. By checking the oxygen sensor, the ECU can "check" if the amount of fuel it added was too high or too low. It will then add or subtract fuel in small increments depending on what it "sees". It "remembers" these adjustments and averages them over a period of time, resulting in a "trim" factor. The fuel trim is constantly applied and adjusted.

There are three fuel trims on DSMs: low, medium and high. These refer to the mass of air entering the engine, and only roughly correspond to RPM ranges. Low applies mostly to idle (750-1000 RPM), high in the 3000-4000 region, and middle in between.

Users of Super-AFC and similar units usually try to adjust their AFCs so the fuel trims are near 100%. This is mostly to provide a baseline of settings for future tuning - it means the AFC settings are "fooling" the ECU into "thinking" the car is still stock (or near stock). It also allows the ECU a lot of range to adjust the fuel trims as necessary.

Fuel trims have no effect at open loop (high RPM or hard accelleration). In this situation the ECU is ignoring the oxygen sensor and there is nothing to trim. Datalogger owners will see their fuel trim "stick" at 100% in open-loop situations.

Those interested in the details of DSM datalogging may find the Pocketlogger FAQ and Technomotive's Datalogger 101guide.

For ECMLink Users, view Tuning with ECMLink article

The "blue wire" modification involves taking the blue wire from the AFC - normally unused on DSM installations - and connecting it to the oxygen sensor. The blue wire is a sensor check connector from the AFC that allows it to display the oxygen sensor reading. Kind of a free A/F gauge. The AFC does not change anything based on this "blue wire" input, it can only display it.

While quite popular initially, evidence is growing that the AFC accessory sensor inputs are not suitable for this kind of connection. Many people have reported that connecting the blue wire to the oxygen sensor artificially lowers the oxygen sensor signal by a significant amount. This is entirely possible since the AFC sensor inputs might not have been designed to be connected to low-power sensors such as the DSM oxygen sensor.

Still, it is a popular modification for those who want an unobtrusive way of keeping an eye on the oxygen sensor without actually using it as a serious tuning tool. Many DSMers scorn the idea of tuning by O2 reading in any case, as it is most likely the least accurate - though most certainly the least expensive - method available.

AFC owners should check out the Super-AFC-DSM mailing list on Yahoo! Groups. You need a Yahoo! ID since membership is now restricted. To join, click here.

The Last Word: This mod is cute, but useless. Use for entertainment value only.

The "MAP sensor" mod connects a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor to the AFC throttle input. The goal is to make the AFC load-sensitive rather than RPM-sensitive. As the boost level increases, the AFC can deliver more fuel accordingly. For more information, see this VFAQ by Corbin Behnken.

Here is a summary of the mod:

" Lots of questions about this mod. So here is a summary.

Why? Turn the Hi/Lo throttle reference for the NE points on the SAFC into boost references and not throttle position dependent. This makes the SAFC engine load sensitive.

How? Buy 3 bar sensor GM Part # 16040749 at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

wire Pin A = Ground - on firewall 
wire Pin B = Sensor output, cut the gray wire that previously attached the ECU's throttle position terminal, and wire the sensor output to this wire of the SAFC 
wire Pin C = +5v, recommend throttle position sensor wiring harness - turn ignition on and use a multimeter to find it.

The map sensor has special 3 pin weatherpack connector, these are available from the junkyard or the wiring accessory section of any good automotive store. Get the one with pigtail wires, usually these connectors have internals alignment grooves - shave with knife to fit. Splice into your boost gauge (manifold pressure and vacuum are necessary) with a 1/4" tee and run hose to the sensor nipple.

Drive car and observe the voltage on the SAFC that the sensor makes at max boost. Let's say YOUR car makes 19psi boost and the corresponding sensor output voltage is 4.1v , take 4.1 divide by 5.0 (max sensor output) and the result is 0.82 or 82% This is your Hi Throttle NE point on your SAFC. Set the Lo Throttle similarly. I used a sensor voltage of 1.15v, which corresponds to slightly above -5 in Hg. and is usually not seen at 70mph cruise, thus 1.15/5.0 = 0.23 or 23%. The Lo Throttle NE point is now 23%. I am still working on tuning this in. I pick up some part throttle knock under light acceleration, but mash it to the floor and it works very very well. The upper rpm is better than before I did this mod. I will make a VFAQ page for this someday.

"Altezza" lights are rear brake lights that have a clear lens overtop of round red lamps. This unique look was apparently first marketed by Toyota in Europe on it's Altezza model sedan, and is sometimes referred to as "European Altezza" or simply "Euro-style" lamps. The Altezza was marketed in North America as the Lexus IS300, but the "Altezza" name stuck once the brake light design was adapted to other cars - probably because it sounded better than "IS300-style".

Please see Has anybody ever installed "Altezza" brake lights on their [DSM]? for information regarding the legality of Altezza lighting systems.

"AN" fittings are a standardized system for tubing and fittings originally created for the U.S. military (Army-Navy). Designations such as AN-8 are Army-Navy sizes. In theory, fittings and parts with the same AN size will always fit together.

For a given AN-x size, take x/16" to get the simple imperial size. For example, an AN-8 fitting is 8/16" (= 1/2") big. An AN-4 fitting is 4/16" (= 1/4") big.

Sizes refer to the outside size only. The inside size (bore) of AN fittings is not standardized, so some parts will have a smaller inside diameter than others.

AN fittings are sometimes used in the automotive world as upgrades to existing factory parts. In the case of DSMs, the metric-to-AN adapters can sometimes be hard to come by. Some people substitute combinations of metric-to-NPT (national pipe thread) and NPT-to-AN fittings - both types are airtight when torqued correctly.

These are strength designations for metric bolts. DSMs, being primarily Mitsubishi cars, use metric fasteners.

Metric bolt strength is designated by 2 numbers separated by a decimal. The first number is the minimum tensile ultimate strength: the resistance to fracturing, given in megaPascals (MPa). The second number is the minimum tensile yield strength: the resistance to deformation, and is rated as a percentage of the first number. Thus, a 10.8 bolt has a 10 MPa ultimate strength, and a yield strength of 0.8 (80%) of that number (= 8 MPa). Generally, the higher the better.

For more detail on the differences between ultimate and yield strength try this chapter of the material sciences guide at tpub.com.

For a table of typical fastener grades, try here.

A roll cage is a rigid metal frame installed inside a vehicle to protect the occupant(s) in the event of a rollover accident. It is a commonplace requirement for many racetracks to require a roll cage for cars that participate in racing events. Fortunately for amateur racers, roll cages are usually not required unless your car is quite fast. Roll cages usually have to meet specific requirements laid down by one or more sanctioning bodies and pass inspections to that effect.

Dale Hammons had the following to say regarding roll cages (edited for appearance only):

"Keith Sontheimer asks about roll cages. As an SCCA tech inspector I have seen a lot of roll cages. The best ones are made by businesses that build tube frame race car chassis or prepare cars for racing. The tube frame chassis people are every where. If you can't find them in any other way go to a local race event find a car with good workmanship and ask the owner who did it.

To get a cage that meets your expectations on final appearance and function you need to have a full understanding of what is needed by the sanctioning body that you are having the cage built to. This will dictate tubing size and wall thickness. Make sure the roll cage fabricator has a copy of your sanctioning bodies requirements. He may not be familiar with your form of racing. How many attachment points are required or allowed. You need to realize what trim items must be removed and modified to accommodate the roll cage (especially dash and rear seat).

Be prepared to modify or add to the cage after its first inspection because you will probably miss something. Get the cage inspected before its painted and all the trim items are back in place in case changes are made.

Your question (ease of installation, cost, quality, ease of exit/entry, etc.)? Bolt in cages are relatively easy to install, relatively inexpensive, tend to be ugly, will need parts added to pass inspection. Welded in cages are a time consuming installation, probably cost around $2000, will look as good as the workmanship used. Ease of entry: all cages reduce ease of entry, as more LH intrusion protection is added the ease of entry decreases."

Technically, a DSM is a car built by Diamond Star Motors, a joint effort by Mitsubishi (three diamonds) and the Chrysler Corporation (penta-star) to build some of the most incredible automobiles in the world. The vehicles were produced with the names Eagle Talon, Mitsubishi Eclipse, and Plymouth Laser. DSM cars are assembled in Normal, Illinois. The '94-and-up Mitsubishi Galant is also assembled at the DSM plant in IL; previous Galant's were assembled in Japan. The Eclipse and Galant (since '89) share the same platform..

[Note: From time to time, debates on the definition of a 'DSM' emerge on the Digest. These debates usually center around a record-breaking car which, because it does or does not have a certain component or feature, 'should' or 'should not' be considered a 'DSM' in the 'true' sense of the word.

Such judgements are entirely subjective and cannot be resolved, except by arbitrary rules; resist the temptation to reopen any such debate on the Talon Digest, as the moderator (and membership) are tired of hearing about it. All race results that can reasonably be deemedrelated to DSMs are reported - whoever is king in your own mind is best kept to yourself.]

In further news, the now-merged DaimlerChrysler corporation purchased a 34% stake in the now-ailing Mitsubishi Motors corporation in April, 2000. This is not to be taken as a re-emergence of DSM, however - the DSM marque is now consigned to the pages of history.

Diamond-Star Motors was officially dissolved in 1993 after the design and production tooling for the 1994 and 1995 cars was complete. Mitsubishi Motors continues to operate the plant formerly responsible for DSM cars under sole ownership.

The "Eagle" brand name was originally created as a method of integrating AMC dealerships and products into Chrysler. It continued for some time as a marque, much as General Motors now continues to market under several brand names. It was eventually discontinued as Chrysler sought to improve their business operations. For more information, go to eaglecars.com.

These terms are acronyms for the 'generation' of car. 1Gs (first generation) were built in the model years 1990-1994, 2Gs in 1995-1999, and 3Gs in the year 2000 onward. The Y2K Eclipse is the year 2000 Eclipse.

A Spyder is a convertible Eclipse only sold by Mitsubishi. It was introduced for the model year 1996 with non-turbo 2.4L and turbo 2.0L engines available. These cars are FWD only - there is no AWD version. Production was continued through the 1999 model year.

Note that the name 'Spyder' was also used on the Mitsubishi 3000GT convertible.

[Note: this information applies only to the definition of a 'DSM' as used for the purposes of the Talon Digest, and does not reflect the personal opinion of any individual.]

2G cars are considered DSMs because they are direct descendants of the original DSM cars.  Although they were technically not built by Diamond Star Motors, their connection to the original line is unmistakable, as they share the name, trim levels and original intention of the 1G cars. 

Also, some early 95 cars have DSM labeling on them, leading many to believe that all 2Gs were built by Diamond Star Motors. This is not the case, as Diamond Star Motors officially ceased to exist in mid-1993, when Chrysler sold off all of its Mitsubishi holdings, technically making the 1994 cars the last of the DSMs. This type of hair-splitting is not important for Club purposes, however, and the Club has decided that 2Gers have as much right to be included as earlier owners.

The Galant VR-4 is something of an oddity in the club, but the VR-4 shares many important components with the 1G cars, including the unusual AWD drivetrain.  It can be argued that the Galant VR-4 is the "parent" of all DSMs: the original concept for the DSM in North America was a four-door. Also the VR-4 platform was originally concieved to be Mitsubishi's entry into the rally racing circuit before DSM existed.

A similar situation exists with the 2G Spyder convertible, but it's connection with the other 2G cars is unmistakable. Thus the Spyder and VR4 are included in the scope of the Talon Digest.

Other pseudo-related cars, such as the non-USA Lancer and Mirage, are not included in the Digest.

The Last Word: C'mon guys, we're all brothers by now

[Note: this information applies only to the definition of a 'DSM' as used for the purposes of the Talon Digest, and does not reflect the personal opinion of any individual.]

The relationship between the 1G, 2G and 3G cars can be summarized as follows:

• 3Gs were not built by Diamond Star Motors, which was dissolved in 1993,
• they do not have the same engine lineup as the 1990-1999 cars,
• they do not have the same transmission lineup as the 1990-1999 cars,
• they share few parts with the 1990-1999 cars,
• they share few upgrade parts or upgrade paths with the 1990-1999 cars.

Please note that the diference in external appearance between 1G/2G cars and 3G cars was not a factor in making this determination. The moderator simply feels that to introduce discussion of a largely different car into the Digest will result in a fragmented version of a list which has already expanded well past the most optimistic expectations. There is no denying that most of the past and present discussion on the Talon Digest will have little to do with 3G cars It also seems unreasonable to expect future discussion on 1G/2G cars to be of interest to 3G owners because their cars have different engines, upgrades, and problems than previous models.

Owners of 3G cars need not despair. Check out Club3G, focused on modifying and maintaining the new model cars. Additionally, discussion on similar parts, upgrades or modifications will still be allowed on the Talon Digest, as they are with other cars such as the Colt, Mirage and Lancer, and a great deal of useful general performance information is contained in the many FAQ files. Also, speciality DSM vendors have already begun to support the 3G; this support will increase more and more in the years ahead.

Aside from the fact that Sebring and Avenger cars are built in the same MMMA plant as the 2G cars, there is nothing to connect them to the DSM name.  They do not share heritage, appearance, upgrade paths or many parts with DSMs. For this reason, these two models are not considered DSMs, and discussion regarding these cars is not part of the Talon Digest or most UBB systems concentrating on DSMs.

Having said that, the Avenger enthusiasts are quick to point out that the Avenger/Sebring platform and the second-generation non-turbo DSM platform do share some similarities. They have similar interiors, bodies, and suspension, and several of the non-turbo upgrades for the NT DSMs work on the A/S cars, since some A/S cars have the same 420A Chrysler motor. Also, some A/S cars have a 2.5L NT similar to the 3.0L NT found in third-generation Eclipses. (Information provided by Tomas Ely.) It could be argued that the A/S cars are cousins to the DSMs - not the same, but similar.

Those looking for more information on the Avenger and Sebring would do well to visit the A/S Owner's Group (ASOG). Seeing this is the internet archive link, not all links will work.

That depends on which model you have.  All of these cars have inline 4-cylinder engines, but the displacement and intake systems differ.

Base and mid models have non-turbo (NT) engines, while upper and AWD models have turbo (T) motors. All are 2.0L, except the base model (1.8L) and the non-turbo Spyder (2.4L). Details on the various configurations are below.

Table 1: 1990-1994 Talon/Eclipse/Laser/Galant 

Table 2: 1995-1999 Talon, Eclipse and Eclipse Spyder 

Table 3: 1996-1999 Eclipse Spyder 

Astute readers (or longtime owners) will notice the 190/195 horsepower "split" in the 1G models. This difference arises in differences in the published factory specifications for the different marques through the 1990 and 1991 model years and not through any actual known changes in the cars themselves. Eventually all the turbo models were rated at 195 horsepower.

DL/RS (1G) 1.8L SOHC, base model

RS (2G) 2.0 DOHC, base model

GS/ESi 2.0 DOHC, 2.0 Non-turbo, 2nd from the bottom model

GS-T/TSi 2.0 Turbo FWD, more options than the GS

GS-X/TSi AWD (Note:On 1Gs, TSi and TSi All wheel drive were badged identically from the rear, and only had the side decals to identify them separately) 2.0 Turbo AWD

Top speeds will obviously vary with the modifications to the vehicle.  However, the top speeds for stock vehicles are in the following neighborhood: 
-  1G AWD:  around 140 MPH / 225 km/h 
-  1G FWD:  140 MPH / 225 km/h 
-  2G AWD:  somewhere around 130-140 MPH. 
-  2G FWD:  some cars are speed limited to 130 MPH - see What are the differences between a M/T turbo and an A/T turbo?

As far as is known, the ECU will stop fuel delivery on all the DSM cars at 7500 RPM.

Some 2G FWD cars have a speed limiter which cuts off fuel at 130 MPH.  This is because the stock H-rated tires are only rated up to 130 MPH.  Replacing the tires and performing this procedure will eliminate it.  Warning: you do this procedure at your own risk. There is some information that this fix only works for 1995-1998 cars.

There are many differences, both major and minor, between various model years.  To date, no comprehensive list exists which details all of the changes; to list them all is beyond the scope of this FAQ.  A few of the high points are:

1990

• Inagural model year of the DSM.
• Pop-up headlights.
• Some high-end models had wheel covers.
• Mix of EPROM and Non-EPROM ECU's
• Front brakes change during the model year.
• 1.8L models have the 4G37 engine, all others have the 4G63 engine.

1991

• ECU changes mean that 1991+ ECUs don't operate the 1990 tachometer correctly.
• Most ECUs had EPROMs.
• First model year with ABS available. ABS not available with limited-slip differential (LSD).
• All high-end models had alloy or mesh wheels.
• First year of the Galant VR-4 - 2000 sold in the American market.

1992

• Non-popup headlights introduced on all models.
• The first AWD Lasers were introduced.
• Few (or no) ECUs have EPROMs.
• ABS now available with LSD.
• The engine changes from the 6-bolt version to the 7-bolt version in April.
• Second and final year of the Galant VR-4 - 1000 sold in the American market.
• The last year of the Dodge 2000GTX.

1993

• "Big brake" 2-piston front calipers become standard on turbo models.
• 7-bolt engines are now standard.
• No ECUs have EPROMs.
• Diamond-Star Motors ceases to exist.

1994

• All cars built to California emissions standards - there are no "Federal" cars.
• The last year of the 1G car and the 1.8L NT models.
• The last year of the Plymouth Laser.

1995

• The inagural year of the 2G DSM.
• Significant changes to the engine, body, and electronics.
• New transmissions.
• All ECUs have EPROMs.
• Non-turbo models are based on the Chrysler 420A engine instead of the Mitsubishi 4G63 engine.
• OBD-II becomes standard on DSMs, along with two oxygen sensors.
• Mitsubishi begins using some substandard crankshafts, leading to crank walk on some 2G cars.

1996

• The first year of the convertible Spyder.
• The Mitsubishi 4G64 engine is offered, in the Spyder models only.
• ECUs stop having EPROMs.

1997

• Additional body changes from the 1995/1996 models.
• Minor changes to the ECU code.

1998

• Minor changes to the ECU code.
• After many years, Mitsubishi finally issues a recall on the AWD DSM transfer case.

1999

• The last year of the 2G car, and of the 4G63/AWD DSM platform.
• The last year of the Eagle Talon. Chrysler drops the Eagle marque.

2000+

• 2000 - The first year of the 3G Eclipse.
• 2002 - The first year of the Lancer (non-Evolution) in the United States and Canada.
• 2003 - The first year of the Lancer Evolution in the U.S.A.
• 2004? - The first year of the Lancer Evolution in Canada?

A photo gallery comprising 100+ images is also available.

Also, for those who are curious (or just nostalgic), Tim Tate has completed the process of immortalizing the original USA dealer brochures for every year, make and model of DSM. Check it out!

For more information on the different model years, it is best to either read the archives (for general information) or to research specific components, as described in 'Has anybody installed a [component] on a [DSM]?'.

There is a page here that has a discussion on the "best" model year of DSM. There is also a page which details the differences between the 1990 engine and the 1993 engine - See this Engine Upgrades page for more detail.

For those looking for ECU-specific information across the various years, please refer to the Technomotive's Sept. 8 issue of The Diagnostic Port.

For 1Gs, there are several differences between T and NT cars of the same year, aside from (duh) the turbo (or lack thereof).

Generally, turbo cars can be identified by:

• The lettering 'TSi' on the rear of the car. Non-turbos are "ES", "ESi", or "DL".
• The presence of a boost gauge in the instrument cluster, inset into the tachometer. (Pictures (2G) here and (1G) here (Adobe Acrobat required). This gauge does not exist on NT cars.
• The words "Premium unleaded fuel only" on the fuel gauge. See (2G) here (Acrobat required).
• For AWD cars only, the words "All Wheel Drive" on the side of the car.

On 1G cars, there are two non-turbo engines: the SOHC 1.8L and the DOHC 2.0L. The 2.0L is based on the same 4G63 engine as the turbo models. It has higher compression pistons (9:1 vs 7.8:1) and no turbocharger or intercooler. The 1.8L is based on the 4G37 engine and also has 9:1 compression.

On 2G cars, there also also two non-turbo engines: the 2.0L and the 2.4L. The 2.0L is not based on the Mitsubishi 4G63 engine; rather it is based on the Chrysler 420A engine, which is why 2G NT owners share some parts, upgrades and procedures with other Chrysler products such as the Are Sebrings and Avengers DSMs?. The SOHC 2.4L is the Mitsubishi 4G64 engine, which is "sort-of" similar to the 4G63 engine used in the turbo models. The 4G64 was only offered in the Spyder convertible models.

For 1Gs, there are several differences between manual and auto cars of the same year, aside from (duh) the transmission.

Auto 1G cars have 
-  smaller turbochargers 
-  smaller injectors (390cc) 
-  a 'power/economy' switch located next to the shift lever 
-  ECUs designed for the smaller injectors 
-  cams designed to produce more low-end torque [1G only]

Manual 1G cars have: 
-  bigger turbochargers 
-  larger injectors (450cc) 
-  a nifty little coin holder next to the shift lever, a fave place to put electronic widgets of one sort or another. 
-  ECUs designed for the larger injectors 
-  ECUs designed to produce less low-end torque [1G only]

2G owners rejoice, as their auto and manual cars have identical engines - assuming, of course, you are comparing apples to apples. Aside from the presence/absence of the 'power/economy' switch, there are no other obvious differences. There still may be additional differences for both 1G and 2G cars.

Aside from badging, logos and some stickers, there are usually no differences between the 1G Eclipse and the Talon of the same model year.  Some 1G Talons and Eclipses had different rear ends; the Eclipse is more like the Laser than the Talon.

It has also been reported that 2G Talons have a different ODBII port than same-year Eclipses, and are not wired to accept a CD changer unless the changer was included as a factory option with the car. Eclipses apparantly have the harness installed even if the CD changer is missing.

Also, Eagle is a dead marque; there will be no more Talons. The Eclipse nameplate is continued on in the 3G Eclipse.

The only differences between an Eclipse and a Laser have to do with the exterior body styling of the car, and some logos/badging.  Some Eclipses may have different rear ends than Lasers. Also, there apparantly was never a spoiler on the Laser until 1992. From Feb. 1992 on, turbo model Lasers included a spoiler, but some non-turbo models apparantly did not.  The side panels and front end are also different, with badging located in different spots than either the Eclipse or the Talon.  Mesh-style wheels were standard, rather than alloy-style wheels.

The interior, engine, transmission, driveline and all other major components of the Laser are the same as the Eclipse.  Note that Lasers were built until 1994 only, so there are no 2G Lasers. Also, AWD Lasers were not available until the 1992 model year.

There are not many differences. Canadian cars never had the automatic seatbelts ("mouse belts") present in earlier USA DSMs. Also, U.S. cars lack the daylight running light (DRL) system of the Canadian cars. Canadian cars also have metric instrumentation, including km/hr (speedometer), km (odometer) and kg/m3 ('boost' gauge). Canadian cars also have a 90A alternator, as opposed to the U.S. spec 75A.

CA cars have more stringent emissions requirements than Federal cars, so they have a couple of extra pieces of equipment. An exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) solenoid valve is installed on CA cars next to the fuel pressure solenoid valve, while Federal cars have a empty space there. 1G CA ECUs are programmed slightly differently than Federal ECUs, making it problematic to switch ECUs from car to car without getting error codes.

To add to the confusion, all 1994 USA DSMs had California emissions, meaning there are technically no Federal 1994 cars. This prevents 1994 owners from installing an EGR blockoff plate, as the CA-style ECU is smart enough to notice and flag an error code. This requires the substitution of a 92-93 Federal ECU for the original CA ECU.

[Other changes to be added.]

Other than that, there are no differences between Federal and CA cars.

Virtually all aspects of turbo design can change from model to model.  

[[UPDATE_NEEDED]]

The serial number of your car is the last 6 digits of its Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Unfortunately, the serial numbers for DSMs are largely mixed in with those of other vehicles built in the same plant - in our case, the Sebring and Avenger. To make things worse, the Laser, Talon and Eclipse serial numbers were similarily mixed up, meaning there is no reliable way of knowing how many of the same model vehicle were made prior to your own.

The exception may be very early 1990 cars - the Talon was apparantly a late addition to the model lineup, so it is somewhat more likely that Talons were made with sequential serial numbers up to a point.

Galant VR-4 owners have the advantage here, as there were a limited number of Galants made in early model years. Owners that list their cars "number" are typically GVR4 owners, as GVR4s have a dash plate listing the "number" of the car in that production year. This number does not correlate to the VIN, which throws more cold water onto the theory that Talon, Eclipse or Laser owners have the ability to figure out their car number.

The VIN also holds lots of other information. Some of it is in this answer, or check in the shop manual for details. In addition, there is a sticker on the driver's door that lists when the car was manufactured: MDH stands for month, date, and hour.

The two engines have different oil pans, among other changes.

Before the oil pan method was identified, the only way to 'tell' if you had a 7-bolt engine was the production date of the car. According to the staff of Conicelli Mitsubishi, cars produced between March, 1989 and the third week of April, 1992 have 6-bolt motors; May, 1992 to the first week of May, 1994 have 7-bolt motors.

Another way might be to check the front brakes. 7-bolt engines are associated with big brakes; cars that have big brakes often have 7-bolt engines. Unfortunately, nobody seems to know if this method is reliable or not.

According to the staff of Conicelli Mitsubishi, all 1G cars produced before the second week of June, 1991, have 3-bolt rears. This essentially covers all 1990 and 1991 DSMs. All 1992-1994 cars have 4-bolt rears.

Many DSM owners are under the mistaken impression that the changeover between the original 3-bolt rear end and the stronger 4-bolt version occurred halfway through the 1992 model year. This is not so.

Those curious to know the production date for their car can check the driver's side doorjamb sticker. The acronym MDH stands for month, day and hour of production.

Phone any dealer of your marque car with your VIN number in hand.  They will tell you what recalls are currently outstanding for your car.  Also check the NTHSA for information on both recalls and TSBs.

Canadians can check the Transport Canada Vehicle Recalls On-Line Database, or call Chrysler Canada at 1-800-465-2001.

This is generally an impossible question for anybody other than yourself to answer. Only you can determine which features you prefer in a vehicle.

1G cars of the same model type (non-turbo, turbo, AWD turbo) are all similar in performance potential regardless of marque. 1993 and 1994 cars have the newest transmissions and big brakes installed, and will generally be in better condition than older cars. 1990-1992 cars will be cheaper and have the same performance potential as the newer versions. Some models may not be available in your market.

The same general rules apply for 2G cars - condition is directy proportional to price, but the upgrade potential is very similar across similar models of different brand. All Galant VR-4s are essentially the same as well.

Which model you will end up with will be determined by your plans for the vehicle, your personal capabilities and your budget. If you desire a make or model not available in your local market, you will have more difficulties maintaining the car since parts will be less available.

This is far too subjective a question to answer.  As with any automobile purchase, the buyer/seller must weigh such factors as options, condition, mileage, warranty, upgrades/repairs, market value and financial need in setting a 'fair' price.

Fortunately, there are several guides to automobile buying available online. The Kelley Blue Book is now available on the net, and lets you check the ever-elusive 'blue book price'.Edmund's offers free information and advice, including the ever-elusive dealer price (what they really pay) and negotiating tips.  Check Yahoo! for at least 40 other sources of car purchasing information.  Research your local market by checking out what used vehicles are selling for. Canadians, don't forget craigslist and kijiji

It is extremely important for new owners to read the "Vital recall and safety information" section of this FAQ, so as to avoid serious difficulties. 

The various problems have also been extensively discussed in the past. Read forums. It is simply the best way to become familiar with the DSM cars.

Newcomers to the DSM world, through reading the Talon Digest, may fall under the impression that DSMs are unreliable cars and are plagued with all sorts of problems.  This is not true.  DSMs do not have any more problems than the next car, and are quite reliable in many key areas.

The reasons why far more problems than 'normal' are reported are as follows:

• Generally, those breaking their cars are either A) Abusing their cars (driving hard) or B) Have modified past design parameters of the parts. Going for 200 to 400hp will tend to break things.
• Forums spanning almost 3 decades of DSM owners, which is an unusually large user base from which to compile problem reports.
• There are many automotive and DSM experts on the Digest who can detect, analyze and report problems reliably and accurately.
• Discussions about problems and their possible fixes are integral to the concept of forums, so all subscribers can benefit from experience. Not often to people sign up to tell everyone trouble free the cars are.
• Because of this, the Digest user base is unusually well informed about the nature of possible (not necessarily probable) problems with their car, and often take preventative steps to avoid known pitfalls.
• There are many types of racers who use DSMs.  Those in the fastest classes (or those attempting to get into the fastest classes) break parts as a matter of course for their chosen sport, as they often far exceed the design parameters of the OEM parts.
• Some of these cars are getting towards 20 years old, and will occasionally require replacement parts as a matter of course.
• And finally, people are far more likely to post about a problem than about a routine day going to and from work; this is simply human nature.

Many vehicles have problems which are easily more widespread and/or more severe than DSMs, but members of the public usually do not hear about them unless they are an owner of an affected vehicle.  DSM owners have the advantage of drawing from the accumulated knowledge of a large experienced group that covers all of North America, through resources like forums and this FAQ page.

Aside from some 'lemon' cars, DSMers are usually quite happy with their vehicles.  There are a few disappointed owners who have had bad luck, which is true of ANY car make.

All 1G cars have a 16 gallon (60 liter) tank.

All 2G cars have a 17 gallon (64 liter) tank.

he following table is a generalization of factory oil specifications for DSMs. Requirements vary with driving conditions and exact year of vehicle. NT is non-turbo, T is turbo.

[[TODO_CREATE_OIL_FILTER_ADDITIVE_SECTION]]

The factory recommends a mixture of water and antifreeze, with the coolant comprising 30%-60% of the total mix. Higher concentrations of coolant are more suitable for low-temperature operation, since the "coolant" is actually antifreeze and anti-corrosion agents. Straight water usually cools the best, but doesn't provide protection against rust or freezing.

If in doubt, run a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and coolant. This is suitable for most driving conditions in the United States and Canada.

The following table lists the factory coolant capacities for DSMs. NT is non-turbo, T is turbo.

IMPORTANT:  Water cools better than antifreeze, but anti freeze will raise the boiling point of water and provide lubrication to the water pump.  Many SUMMER ONLY DSMs use 100% water and WaterWetter. There is debate wether this is enough lubricant for the water pump. If your DSM will see cold storage (freezing temps), ensure you have antifreeze in the system or you risk blowing out freeze plugs or cracking your block as the water turns to ice and expands.

1G cars have a stock boost pressure of 8-12 psi.

2G cars have 10-15 psi.

The service manual allows lower pressures, but those are rarely seen in actual vehicles.

The Last Word: People once thought the 2G 2L NT had 190 cc injectors, but according to Nathan Cross (moderator of 2GNT.com) they're actually 235 cc. Also, 2G autos were incorrectly listed as 390cc, while in actuality all turbo 2Gs have 450cc injectors regardless of drivetrain. [Thanks, Nathan!]

Fuel pressures given below are at curb idle. 1G numbers are as follows: the first number is stock; the second number is with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. 2G numbers are with everything connected.

Paint codes can be found on the vehicle information code plate in the engine compartment. It is located on the firewall (underneath the windshield). The body color code is the bottom number on the plate.

Comparing the car to another car with a known paint code might not be a good idea - there have been reports that the paint codes differ across the years. However, for 1990, the paint codes were as follows:

The coefficient of drag for most DSMs is reportedly around 0.29-0.30. This applies to both 1G and 2G.

Table 1: 1990-1994 Talon/Eclipse/Laser/Galant 

Table 2: 1995-1999 Talon, Eclipse and Eclipse Spyder 

Table 3: 1996-1999 Eclipse Spyder 

Different transmissions are not interchangeable. Note that 2G transmissions are interchangeable with 1G transmissions of the same model number, but 2G transmissions have different internals and are generally considered to operate much better. Usually only minor modifications are required to fit a 2G transmission to a 1G engine

Tranny gear ratios for DSMs

Full Read Here: http://vfaq.com/mods/Trannies.html

Excerpt: According to the Shop Manual CD, here are the gear ratios for 1G NTs, 1G/2G FWDs, 1G/2G AWDs, 2G 2.4 Spyders, Galant GSXes (GGSX, AWD nonturbo) and Galant VR4s. The Shop Manuals for the different years sometimes conflicted with the Tech Manual (the CD only has the early Tech Manual, so only covers 1Gs), so I put what I thought were the proper numbers in some places - thanks to Mike at RRE for corrections. I have put the Galant GSX in the Turbo section to make it easy to compare with the GVR4 and EVO GVR4.

The following table lists the approximate weights. Weights vary from year to year and according to which options are present on the car. Where two numbers are given, the first is for manual transmission cars, and the second is for automatic transmission cars.

Table 1: Approximate curb weight of DSM models (pounds)

The following table lists approximate weights for the various wheels.

1G DSMs have a recommended torque of 90-110 ft/lbs.

Most people will operate their DSM under one or more conditions deemed "severe" by the manufacturer. For severe (typical) operating conditions, oil changes are recommended each 3 months / 4800 km / 3000 miles.

Non-severe conditions: 
For 1G turbo models, oil changes are recommended each 6 months / 8000 km / 5000 miles. For 1G NT models, oil changes are recommended each 12 months / 12,000 km / 7500 miles. For 2G turbo models, oil changes are recommended each 6 months / 8000 km / 5000 miles. For 2G NT models, oil changes are recommended each 6 months / 12,000 km / 7500 miles.

The proper oil weight depends on the temperatures the car is driven in. For 1Gs, both NT and T models can use 10W-30 between -23 and +50 degrees C (-10 to +120 degF). 5W-30 can be used for lower temperatures. 1G cars hold 3.9L (1.8L engine) or 4.4L (2.0L NT and T engines); the oil filter holds about 0.4L, and the oil cooler (if present) 0.3L.

Some owners recommend you change the oil twice as often as required, or use synthetic oil and change at recommended intervals. There is no proof that this treatment extends service life.

The Last Word: Face it, the car is getting old. Unless you're a fanatic, the recommended intervals is probably fine.

By far the most important aspect of engine oil is to have the proper grade.

Update: Check this article (PDF) written by Forced Performance | Recommedations for Motor Oil

As is true for many automotive enthusiast groups, DSMers generally recommend fully synthetic oil for general use. Synthetic oils can withstand higher temperatures than mineral oils, and contain less wax, which theoretically leads to less residue building up in the engine.

However, some members stick with semi-synthetic or regular oils, and may or may not change them more often than recommended. A good case can be made for using either type of oil, so it usually comes down to the owner's personal preference.

Engine oil brand is even more debatable than oil type. There are dozens of brands on the market, each slightly different from the last. Fortunately, almost all of them will work just fine in all autmotive applications, including DSMs, allowing owners to pick whatever brand they have confidence in.

If you have deep pockets, these are talked about:  Brad Penn, Royal Purple (w/ Zinc. Not RP canadian Tire version) and Rotella

Some DSMs came equipped with a 'small' oil filter, and some with a 'big' oil filter - apparently a difference between Chrysler and Mitsubishi, as well as between different model years. Both filters appear to work the same, so owners generally don't sweat too much over which one to use.

A few owners with modified exhaust systems have found that the 'big' filter doesn't fit their car anymore. Changing to the small version seems to work fine for them as well.

As for brands, filters are like engine oils - it is nearly impossible to identify a 'best' oil filter. Many different oil filters seem to work equally well, and there is almost nothing to distinguish different brands from each other.

In a quest for knowledge, Russ Knize took a bunch of oil filters and cut them apart, to see how they compared internally. The results of his work have been written up on the Oil Filter Study page, which details the comparison of the different filter types. He also has a separate page detailing his personal recommendations on which oil filters should perform the best.

Final Word: Highly recommend to stick with Mitsubishi Filters

No, you don't. It is true that the original Mitsu/Chryco oil filters have a small check valve in them. The common belief is that this check valve helps maintain oil pressure, and keeps oil in the engine while the car isn't running. (Dealers often repeat this tidbit of DSM 'lore' in an effort to steer owners away from the popular oil-change companies.) Some suspect, however, that the valve is nothing more than a bypass valve that allows oil to circulate even if the oil filter becomes too clogged to operate properly.

In any event, the aftermarket oil filter manufacturers include the check valve in their own offerings for the DSM triplets. This makes perfect sense, as it is unlikely that either Mitsubishi or Chrysler manufacture their own oil filters. Those who prefer OEM parts may, of course, stick with what they are most comfortable with, but it is by no means mandatory.

Final Word: You should still stick with factory but do not need to.

   and other 'trick' products

This class of products generally includes those products which promise significant improvements in engine power, longevity, durability, economy, and emissions in one convenient package.  They either utilize proprietary formulae added to gasoline or oil, or provide some type of 'improvement' in the engine intake systems.

The pervading opinion on the Talon Digest, as well as on most other automotive mailing lists, is that these products provide few or none of the improvements they claim.  Few people have been able to verify these claims through real-world dyno or track testing.  Many of them cost as much or more than parts which have been shown to work, over and over, by the Club DSM membership and specialtyvendors, so you may wish to spend your money elsewhere.

As oil additives are generally the most pervasive "magic" product, they deserve special attention. Commercial engine oils are already formulated with several additives in them. The formulae are usually referred to as "synergistic" - that is, the combination of additives work together to produce greater effects than any single additive alone.

Engine oils are already manufacturered with great attention to detail. It is not likely that any separately formulated additive will greatly improve the oil characteristics. At best, the additive will have no effect; at worst, the additive might upset the chemical balance of the oil and actually degrate its performance.

Those who remain convinced these products do, in fact, provide significant benefit are generally unaware that the U.S. Federal Trade Comission has brought suit against dozens of companies selling these types of products, with a uniform result - the companies settle without contesting the charges. This means they do not have to admit any wrongdoing, but are prohibited from making further unsubstantiated claims about their product(s).

This type of federal action is a sure sign of a 'magic' product that even the manufacturer cannot prove to be genuine. Up until recently, this information was hard to come by, but the FTC website now provides a lot of useful information direct to the public - some of it is listed below. Among others, the FTC has taken action against the following brand names: Prolong , Valvoline, Slick 50 and STP.

While the manufacturer's information extolling the unparalleled virtue of these products is easily come by, there is also a lot of information available on the web that casts doubt on the claims of many of these products.  A quick search for trade names will often come up with as much bad information as good.

A few rebuttal links are

• a skeptical look at Slick 50
• the Slick 50 question from Miata Net
• a Federal Trade Commision summary of FTC vs. Quaker State / Slick 50, or the complete record.
• FTC vs. Blue Coral / Slick 50.
• a Federal Trade Commision cease and desist order against Blue Coral / Slick 50 (also PDF version.
• An FTC document describing actions against Ashland / Valvoline for their TM8 Teflon additive.
• Another FTC news release, this time against STP / First Brands for the XEP2 additive.
• Yet another FTC news release detailing how the makers of Dura Lube and Motor Up products were forced to discontinue their advertising. Dura Lube had to pay $2 million dollars in this case.
• The FTC search engine (try searching for "Slick 50" and/or "engine treatment" for more details on the above cases).

• Read the FTC's own words on gasoline additives and gasoline saver products.

• Try Fred Rau's article on Slick 50, originally from Road Rider.

• a search of the Club DSM archives for information on fraudulent ECU upgrades ('chips'), described below.
• if you can, check out the October 1998 Consumer Reports test on Prolong (subscription required).
• The Engine Oil Bible by Chris Longhurst.
• Finally, the Club DSM Fluids FAQ has some information on how to obtain some of the 'proof' claimed by certain additive manufacturers.

However, as with all things, you will have to make up your mind for yourself.  It's your car, and your money.

Those looking to restore their outlook on life after reading this information should visit the Kaleco Auto home page - I'm sure you'll find their products quite interesting. (Read carefully.)

Every 2 years or 48,000 km / 30,000 miles.

All DSMs should have their timing AND balance shaft belts changed every 60,000 miles (90,000 km). Many engine-destroying belt failures are really the fault of the balance shaft belt, rather than the main timing belt.

Most people find it convenient to change all the belts at once. There are five belts on 1G DSMs (and probably on 2Gs, as well) as well as tensioners and pulleys. For a complete list, see I need to replace my timing belt. What other parts should I replace? Also, read Why is it so important to change the timing belt on a [DSM]?

Brief answer: most belt failures on DSM engines result in major internal engine damage, and very high repair bills.

With the exception of the 1.8L NT engine, DSM engines are of the 'interference' style. This means that the pistons and valves occupy the same space, but not at the same time. This type of engine design might seem stupid, but is done for many reasons. (1.8L owners please note that you are not necessarily immune to these problems - keep reading.)

Of course, the engine needs some mechanism for ensuring the pistons and valves don't try to occupy the same space at the same time. The component that does this job is (you guessed it) the timing belt. It's main function is to keep the position of the camshafts (which run the valves) and the crankshaft (which runs the pistons) constant. So long as this is true, it is not possible for the pistons to hit the valves.

There are several reasons why the timing belt mechanism might fail. Obviously, if the timing belt itself breaks because of stress, age or contamination, the valves and pistons will get out of sync. Less obvious is the possibility for damage by the often-unnoticed balance shaft belt.

The balance shaft belt (known as timing belt B in dealership circles) has a much less important job than the main timing belt. It's function is to operate one of the balance shafts in the engine, a component that does nothing but smooth out the engine vibration. Balance shafts are not essential in an engine, and many engines don't have any at all. If the balance shaft belt should break, the worst symptom the driver should notice is an increased 'buzziness' to the engine.

Unfortunately, it's usually not that simple. This little balance shaft belt runs immediately alongside the main timing belt. If it breaks, it almost invariably strikes the timing belt with great force. This results in one of two things: either the main timing belt breaks as a result of the impact, or it 'skips' - that is, jumps teeth on the gears - and the timing between the crankshaft and camshafts becomes radically incorrect. Either way, the end result is usually the same.

Should the timing belt break, the camshafts will be held in a static position while the crankshaft is still turning. In other words, the pistons will be moving, while the valves will be staying still. If the valves are stuck in a position where they are 'in the way', the pistons will strike them during their normal travel.

A similar problem exists if the timing belt has skipped out of position. Although it is still driving the camshafts, it is causing the valves to open at the wrong time. Often, it is the same time during which the pistons are trying to use the same space inside the cylinder, and the pistons will still hit the valves.

During these encounters, the valves almost invariably lose, and get bent out of shape. They are then unable to do the job of sealing the cylinder intake or exhaust ports, and the engine cannot run. This is a virtual certainty on the 2.0L turbo and non-turbo engines, but even 1.8L owners have been known to have similar problems.

Since many of the DSM engines have 4 valves per cylinder, there is a high probability that at least one valve per cylinder will be bent, no matter what position the camshafts are in. Most owners find they lose at least half the valves (all the intake or all the exhaust valves), and many find all sixteen valves are damaged. A compression test usually tells the sad tale: zero pressure in the cylinder because a valve is stuck open.

Unfortunately, the only way to repair these valves is to remove the head from the engine. The 'head' is essentially the top half of the engine, which holds virtually everything in an engine aside from the cylinders, pistons and crankshaft. To get it off, about half of the engine components must be removed and/or disconnected. While it is off, the head must also be reconditioned and inspected for damage. All of this translates into major labor and high repair bills.

Sometimes the pistons are dented or gouged as well, requiring them to be replaced. This usually involves the 'block', or bottom half, of the engine to be removed from the car, which requires even more labor as well as the cost of new pistons.

The moral of this story is: always change your belts, on schedule, with the best replacement parts you can afford. This is truly a situation where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, as engine repairs cost three to six times as much as timing belt changes.

Those who dislike the idea of keeping the balance shaft belt in the engine may wish to consider removing the shafts - Has anybody ever removed the balance shafts in a [DSM]? .

The major recalls on DSMs have been for:

• 1990-91 timing belts;
• 1992 timing belts, under a separate recall;
• 1990-91 seat belt latches;
• 1990-91 oxygen sensors; and
• 1990-1998 transfer cases.

There have been other recalls. Doing a recall search at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website will reveal them all. For maximum information, search for all three models of DSM: Talon, Eclipse and Laser. Canadians can check the Transport Canada Vehicle Recalls On-Line Database, or call Chrysler Canada at 1-800-465-2001.

Phone any dealer of your marque car with your VIN number in hand.  They will tell you what recalls are currently outstanding for your car.  Also check the NTHSA for information on both recalls and TSBs.

Canadians can check the Transport Canada Vehicle Recalls On-Line Database, or call Chrysler Canada at 1-800-465-2001.

Absolutely.  The recalls are tracked by your vehicle identification number (VIN).  Be sure to phone Chrysler at 1-800-992-1997 so you can get notices of future recalls. (Note: this number may have changed to 1-800-853-1403.)

There are two separate timing belt recalls. One involves 1990 and 1991 cars, while the second (which was issued much later) involves early 1992 cars.

In both cases, Mitsubishi was guilty of using inferior quality timing belts. The belts tended to break ahead of schedule; for information on what happens when the belt breaks, see Why is it so important to change the timing belt on a [DSM]?

Owners of recalled vehicles are entitled to a new replacement timing belt under the recall. It is very important to note, however, that there are many other components involved in the timing belt system that should also be replaced when doing the timing belt. These components are not covered by the recall, so dealerships may not automatically replace them. For guidance, this list of components that should be replaced along with the timing belt.

There is nothing wrong with the transfer case - there *is* something wrong with the brass plug in the centre of the transfer case yoke.  This plug can leak.  If enough lubricant is lost out of the transfer case, it will wear out and lock up.  Leakage may cause premature wear on the transfer case even if it does not seize up.  The Transfer Case Leak page is a must read on the subject, as are Paul Lyons' definitive posts on the transfer case recall.

There is a safety recall on this problem for all model year AWD DSMs from both Mitsu and Chryco, up to and including mid-1998 models.  The wording of the recall is such that:

• the dealership will inspect the transfer case yoke to determine if there is a leak or not.
• upon evidence of a leak, the dealer will replace the yoke and yoke seal at no charge.
• if, in the dealer's opinion, the transfer case has undue wear on it, it will also be replaced at no charge.

Because of the wording of the recall, transfer cases are not automatically replaced.  All the crying and bitching in the world won't change that.  However, the transfer case and yoke are warrantied for the life of the car. This is because the recall is a safety recall.  Future leaks will be covered under the terms of the recall notice.  These terms are not within the discretion of either the dealer or the manufacturer - thus spake the NHTSA, and so mote it be.  Do not be afraid to stand up for your rights on this crucial point.

Many DSMers have been happy with the recall work.  However, there have been several reports of owners who have not received satisfactory service from the dealerships performing the recall.  The causes include:

• no parts available.  At one time or other, all the involved parts were reported as backordered.
• dealerships not recognizing the transfer case leak for what it is; it is sometimes misdiagnosed as engine oil or U-joint oil.
• a DIY repair of the transfer case yoke, which fools the dealer into believing the yoke is not leaking.
• dealerships not believing that the transfer case has experienced undue wear as a result of the leak.

Owners who do not get decent service should do the following:

• phone the Mitsu/Chryco and NHTSA telephone numbers, listed on your recall notice, to report the difficulty.
• Have them intervene on your behalf with the dealer.  Dealers and Mitsu/Chryco do not have the power to deny you in this matter.  Remember that the NHTSA does not have to guarantee you a replacement t-case!
• contact Todd Hayashi regarding your bad experience - he is putting together a list of people who have had problems with the recall.  Include your name, your car (year/make/model) and the name and address of the dealership with whom you had problems.

The phone number for Mitsubishi is 1-800-222-0037, for Chrysler it is 1-800-521-2777 (or perhaps 1-800-992-1997).   Canadians phone Chrysler Canada at 1-800-465-2001. The NHTSA is at 1-888-327-4236. (Note: Troy Davis reports that one of these numbers may have changed to 1-800-853-1403.)

Mitsubishi owners who have already had the transfer case repaired, either by a dealer or a third party, apparantly have the option to get reimbursed from Mitsu.  Details on this are sketchy.

Club DSM members can thank Dallace Marable and Paul Lyons; they are the reason why this recall is in place. You can read all of Paul's recall posts to the Digest here; do so before asking questions. I'm sure that a thank-you note would be well appreciated.

The Last Word: Good things are not meant to last. Unfortunately, the recall is unlikely to be honored by any dealership at this point in time.

Despite the information above, the idea that the transfer case safety recall would be honored indefinitely was somewhat naive. These days it seems difficult to get any dealership to honor any TSB or recall, no matter how legitimate, and a semi-official repair like this one is way, way down the list. Even the NHTSA has been saying that the recall is only good once, and if the problem reappears it is up to the owner to fix it.

Some people were lucky, and managed to get their cases repaired or replaed multiple times - presumably on the dealerships in-house service warranty, which sometimes holds for one year. Other people had a struggle getting it replaced or even repaired once.

An independent mechanic, given the proper information, should be able to repair and/or replace your transfer case. Fortunately, there have been very few reported incidents of transfer case lock-up. Unfortunately, those few I've heard about have sometimes involved injury or death.

More to the story.....

I wrote all of the stuff in the original post more than 2 decades ago. Here is what I've learned over the years. NHTSA recalls are not for the life of the car. They are for 10 years. Sorry folks but this one is long gone. I had the unique experience of dealing with this subject again when I found a very pristine low mile 2gb Talon that needed recall work but they would not honor it. As of that time period(2011) the recall parts kit were still available and inexpensive. Sadly if you trash a transfer case as a result of this issue you are out of luck. A little back story about what I found from the original conversations. There were supposedly two machines manufacturinig the yoke for the driveshaft. It is a broach process and then a plug in the end to seal the fluid. Well apparently one of them had issue so many cars had a problem but there was no way to know which ones. As a result Mitsubishi did not want to just replace all of them so instead the original recall was to get an inspection. If there were signs of leakage you got a new yoke kit and if the transfercase made noise you got one of thsoe too. The problem is the defective parts were in the newer cars also. Some of them didn't have enough miles to exhibit a problem (my 97 included) so many cars got the "recall" but didn't actually get anything done. Informed owners sometimes got the service performed but from a legal standpoint I don't think they had to if they have record of service at some earlier date. The links above are probably dead but it likely doesn't matter as the information is old anyway.  If anybody wants to banter about this or ask me further questions my email is pauleyman@hotmail.com. I'm also on Dsmtuners as pauleyman.

Paul Lyons

The recall is apparantly now in force.  Some owners have already recieved notices.  The NHTSA campaign number for this recall is 98V168000.  Some GVR4 owners have already had the recall done, even prior to the 'official' release.

Canadians can check the Transport Canada Vehicle Recalls On-Line Database, or call Chrysler Canada at 1-800-465-2001

A slight lean towards the drivers side is normal. Conjecture on this subject has been wide and varied for many years, but nobody has quite been able to finger the exact reason. One theory is it was done so it would be easier to drive in a straight line on a one lane road, which rises in the middle to assist in drainage. The best theory thus far is that the lean is caused by the engine and driver being on the left-hand side. Nobody has complained thus far that it affects any part of the ride quality of the car, although a few people have commented that the right rear of the car tends to rattle a bit more. This may be because the lower left front tends to unload the right rear suspension slightly.

After 10+ years and if the lean is excessive, things to look at:

• suspension bushings are probably worn out, causing excessive lean.
• different brand/size tires
• spring snapped in half
• check the spring seat at the top of the strut tower. rubber spacer might have rotted

See also: [[What is my [DSM] maintenance schedule?]]

Update: There is a great thread located here at DSMTuners.com | DSM Maintenance Guide

Any dealer can tell you this. You can also obtain a copy of the owners manual for your year, make and model car from Mitsubishi or Chrysler. It's pretty much a typical regimen of changes for oil, filters, plugs and belts. You can also get a shop manual for your car which details the wheres, whens and hows for the various procedures.

There is now some maintenance information in this FAQ.

New owners: PLEASE read the Recalls section of this FAQ to inform yourself about important potential problems. Also note that timing AND balance shaft belts REALLY should be changed by 60 kmiles (90 kkm), so used-car owners will want to check that right away.

In general, normal idle for a DSM is 750 RPM. However, due to specifications for various components, an idle of 700-825 RPM displayed on your tachometer can be considered normal (in the absence of other symptoms). This specification applies to a fully warmed vehicle with all electrical accessories switched off (except Canadian vehicles, which have DRLs).

The car will have a higher idle under certain circumstances:

• The vehicle not fully warmed up (+0-500RPM, slowly falling)
• The A/C is on (+200-250RPM)
• The vehicle is not at a complete stop (+150-200RPM)

Note:

1G owners can expect 1.8L engines to idle at 800 RPM, while 2.0L (non-turbo and turbo) idle at 750 RPM. With the air conditioning on, automatics will drop to 650 RPM, while manuals will rise to 850 RPM.

2Gers will get 800 RPM out of their non-turbos, and 750 RPM from the 2.0 turbo and 2.4L engines. Again, this will rise to 850 RPM with the air conditioning on.

If your car does not idle exactly at these levels, or changes its idle slightly, occasionally or while driving, don't freak out. Few cars idle at precisely the designed level, owing to variations in climate and engine components. All of the above levels are rated at plus or minus 100 RPM, and the car will sometimes adjust the idle acording to driving conditions. If you don't have a problem with the car, leave the idle alone.

Some DSMers have problems with an unstable idle, or with their car being unable to maintain idle when coming to a stop. The first problem is a symptom of a badly set base idle, while the second in an indication of a broken speed sensor. Those with idle surge problems go here; those with cars that die at stoplights go here.

Most owners get around 20 MPG (11.75 L/100km). On-highway use typically results in 25 MPG (9.5 L/100 km).  These numbers vary a fair amount according to season, location, altitude, type of driving, state of modifications, age of various parts, and quality of gasoline used; non-turbo owners often have the edge here. Owners have reported 'normal' mileage on both new and used cars that vary from typical by as much as 10 MPG.

Mileage in the 12-13 MPG (18-20 L/100 km) sometimes reflects a problem with the car.  An old or failing oxygen sensor is a prime suspect, as this component senses the air/fuel mixture and, when bad (or even weak), can cause the ECU to supply more fuel than is necessary. According to Todd Day of Technomotive, even a slightly weak O2 sensor can knock 1-2 MPG off of the normal mileage. Since weak or dead oxygen sensors often do not trip the "Check Engine" light (see here for why), owners may not realize their O2 sensor is on the blink.

However, this is not always the case. Mileage can often be lower in the winter simply because of the widespread sale of oxygenated gasoline, which tends to lower fuel mileage. Cold weather also leads to increased idling and more congested traffic.

Another common problem occurs when upgraded downpipes are installed. Techs often forget to re-connect the ground strap from the original downpipe, leading to a poor ground for the oxygen sensor that can have the car running rich.

If you're really desparate, try replacing your thermostat - a poorly operating unit can keep the car thinking it's cold so it never leaves it's 'warm-up' mode, during which the ECU runs the car richer than normal.

Oil pressure is directly related to

• the ambient temperature
• the engine temperature
• the amount of oil in the engine
• the engine speed

When changing the oil you often end up with a slightly different amount of oil in the engine then you had previously.  Less oil means less oil pressure - add a little more oil and the pressure will rise.

Also, the oil pump is driven by an accessory belt. Operating the engine at higher speed runs the oil pump faster, raising oil pressure. Consequently, oil pressure is lowest when the car is idling (and hot), and will rise during cruising.

Normal oil pressure on these cars is between the Low and Mid mark when idling, and between the Mid and High marks when cruising. These marks, unfortunately, do not correspond to any known psi rating.

Limited testing by DSM owners with mechanical oil pressure gauges indicate that DSMs tend to have around 70-90 psi of oil pressure while cruising, and only 10-20 psi while idling. Cold starts can generate oil pressures of over 100 psi, a fact verified by the DSM manuals when discussing proper oil filter selection.

Consistently low oil pressure while driving could be an oil leak, or a bad oil pressure sending unit. Be careful.

The Last Word: Some DSMs just show low oil pressure, period. My car has shown low oil pressure for years, but nothing comes of it.

And, despite what some people have told me, oil pressure DOES depend - a little bit, at least - on the amount of oil. I've seen the oil pressure on my car go up by adding a bit more oil. There is a danger of overfilling the oil and causing oil "frothing", but I consider that a low-probability problem, whereas my car (and most DSMs, by now) does definitely leak and/or burn oil. Personally, I'd rather have a bit too much than not enough.

The oil light on the dash may come on under hard braking when your oil is low. Top up immediately.

Finally, the little connector that connects the oil pressure sender to the dash gauge can wear out and/or fall off. The gauge will show zero oil pressure and scare the bejeezus out of you, but the dash oil light doesn't light up. The sender is located between the oil filter and the wheel, under the car.

1990-1991 DSMs had pop-up headlights. The popup button raised the lights even if they were off. Since 1992-1994 DSMs did not have pop-up headlights, this switch is not installed. There is a "blank" where the switch would have gone. The installation of such "blanks" is commonplace in automotive design. If desired, a pop-up switch, fog light switch or other stock DSM switch can easily be installed into the "blank" spot to control auxiliary lighting or other special equipment.

It is true that the pop-up switch is slightly redundant on 1990-1991 cars since the headlights pop-up automatically when switched on. It is possible to prevent them from doing so. Owners sometimes want to do this to allow them to look "cooler" when using the headlights as daylight running lights. Others prefer to run the headlights down and use the high beams to make up for the lost light. [Note: The writer of this FAQ does not recommend operating the headlights down at night.]

"When the yellow light is on, the air conditioner delivers cold air when the interior of the car is hot and then gradually tempers the air as the interior of the car cools down. This is done by gradually changing the temperature set points at which the compressor cycles to higher temperatures."

"To see exactly how this all works check out the graph at the bottom of page 24-4 of the "Technical Information Manual"."

Most people believe that the green light means the air conditioner compressor stays on all the time. This is not true.

From a post by Lorrin Barth:

"When the green light is on the air conditioner cycles off when the oulet temperature of the evaporator drops to 37 degrees and cycles on when it rises to 39 degrees. In other words, cold air all of the time. Of course, as in really hot weather, the evaporator temperature may take a long time to drop to 37 degress, and this is going to depend on the condition of the system too, making you think it never cycles.

So, as you can now see, the compressor cycles in either mode. To see exactly how this all works check out the graph at the bottom of page 24-4 of the "Technical Information Manual". "

This is peculiar to 2G DSMs. Likely the factory installed this feature to ensure that the defrost air is dry. Trying to defrost a freezing windshield with humid air does more harm than good, and blowing snow can easily get into the fresh air intakes.

It was previously posted that the rationale for this 'feature' is that disuse of the A/C feature during winter can lead to premature seal cracking. Having the A/C on with the defrost ensures that the A/C system stays "active" and keeps the seals properly wetted. This might be considered suspect since chronic A/C seal failure is not known to be a problem on 1G DSMs - even Canadian ones.

If you hate it, you can remove the little tab on the vent dial that is responsible. Essentially, there is a small tab on the A/C selector knob that automatically trips the A/C if the defroster is selected. Breaking off the tab "fixes" it.

The Last Word: Your experience may vary, but the only reason I keep A/C in my car is to dry the air and keep the windows fogging up in rainstorms.

Your brake fluid is probably low. Check it. Another possibility is that your brake pads are wearing out.

Some owners have found that the brake light comes on when it is cold out. However, this is often a symptom of another problem, and not the problem itself. Check your brake system to make certain.

Another possibility is some malfunction in the antilock braking system of your car. If you find your fluid is ok, have the ABS system checked out. It has been reported that 1991 cars may occasionally experience a glitch in a wheel sensor, causing the ABS system to reset.

Still another possibility is that you are accidentally bumping the parking brake handle with your right knee. This can happen to taller people.

This may be a symptom of a failing battery - the ABS system can misbehave under low-voltage conditions.

Changes the shift points the transmission uses - that's all.  Mitsu recommends that the economy setting not be used except over 50 MPH, to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the transmission.

That is the ECU turning off. It is perfectly normal.

You can tow an AWD DSM. The trick is to have all four wheels off the ground while it is being towed. This can be done using a flatbed tow truck, or putting the front wheels on dollies.

The reason that AWD DSMs should not be towed with two wheels on the ground is the limited-slip differential (LSD) which is present on many AWDs. The function of the LSD is (surprise!) to allow a limited amount of speed difference between the front and rear wheels.

[Please note that the operation of the LSD has been simplified here for the purposes of discussion. This is not a dissertation on the LSD itself.]

Under normal driving conditions, the front and rear axles rotate at the same speed. (This is what differentiates AWD from older 4WD vehicles - on 4WD vehicles, it is assumed that the front and rear wheels usually rotate at different speeds while the 4WD is engaged.) During this time, the LSD does no work, and is 'open', providing no coupling between the front and rear wheels of the car.

The LSD is a viscous (fluid-based) device, and contains no mechanical interlocks. When one set of wheels begins to slip, plates in the LSD rotate at different speeds. The speed difference creates friction, and therefore heat, in the LSD fluid. When enough heat is generated, the LSD fluid abruptly changes state from 'open' to 'closed' providing a semi-solid junction between the two plates. With the fluid now 'locked' the plates are forced to rotate at near-equal speeds, which is turn forces the axles to turn together. When the slip condition disappears, the LSD quickly loses heat and returns to an 'unlocked' state.

So, the raison d'etre of the LSD is to prevent excessive wheel slip between the front and rear axles. The only problem with this occurs if two wheels are forced to slip, while the other two remain stationary. This occurs, of course, if two wheels are on the ground (rolling) and two are stationary (lifted) while the car is being towed.

In this scenario, the LSD will quickly build up heat and 'lock', attempting to rotate both axles equally. Unfortunately, it is unable to do so, since the stationary axle is locked securely into place by the tow operator. The other option is to halt the rolling axle, but the LSD does not have the strength necessary to resist the force provided by a tow truck designed to pull much larger vehicles. So the LSD plates continue to slip, even when the LSD is 'locked'.

When placed into such an impossible situation, the LSD does the only thing it can do - build up heat until it self-destructs. The tow truck driver, driving a dually burdened with the added weight of a 3000 lb car, is unlikely to notice either the extra resistance provided by the LSD or the lack of resistance once the LSD burns out. By the time the car is again dropped to the ground, the LSD is literally toast.

This situation can easily be avoided by only towing the car with all 4 wheels off of the ground. The exact method used is not critical. And no, it isn't going to hurt the LSD to load the car - technically, the front and rear axles are never going to rotate at exactly the same speed during driving, so the LSD plates are always rotating at slightly different speeds. Obviously, this doesn't hurt it, since it runs in 'open' mode normally - the problems occur when it is 'locked' and still cannot equalize the axle speeds.

Those interested in the exact operation of the LSD can read all about it in their technical manual (you do have one, right?).

Those interested in the details of the AWD system should read Eliot Lims Introduction to AWD Systems.

They are functional. They let air out of the car when the windows and sunroof are closed up.

Many.  Read Michael Stegbauer's Idle page. Brad Baur has an excellent idle surge VFAQ up. Also read the answer to "How do I adjust the idle on a [DSM]" in this FAQ.

If this process doesn't work, you are in the minority. Try looking for something basic, such as

• loose throttle cable
• fouled spark plugs
• defective or gunked-up idle speed control (ISC) motor
• leaking injectors
• cracked vacuum hose
• damaged intake manifold gasket
• Timing. (If you have adjustable cam gears, make sure they didn't move)

High idle can also be caused by a throttle cable or cruise control cables that are too tight.

Some troubleshooting tips: if your idle adjusts when your A/C compressor is on, or when all of the electrical accessories are on, the ISC is at least partially working. If your idle appears to fluctuate with temperature, suspect an air leak in a vacuum hose or at the air intake first.

If you need to check the ISC, do it when it is hot. The ISC resistance can sometimes change when it has cooled down. Thus, the ISC looks ok when checked, but misbehaves when actually operating. The same holds true for cables since they can tighten up during operation.

The Last Word: With the age of these cars, cracked hoses, hardened gaskets and broken seals are going to be very common. The throttle body shaft seals can leak air, for one example. It's the nature of an older car.

Legend

	Very Likely
	Likely
	Eh...
	Not Likely
	Very Unlikely

This is likely the infamous 'hot start' problem. This question pops up every year in the springtime, when many DSMs 'suddenly' exhibit this problem.

Perhaps better named as a 'warm start' problem, this difficulty often surfaces after a car has been driven, then parked for a relatively short period of time. Upon restart, the warm engine (not fully cooled down from the previous drive) appears reluctant to crank over. When it does catch, idle is often in the 300-500 RPM range, with engine shaking, sputtering, reluctance to rev up, and sometimes stalling. Holding the accelerator down until the engine smooths out often 'solves' the problem, but sometimes the engine will not rev up at all. Often the problem will correct itself with no intervention by the driver.

Please note that an inability to crank over or failure to actually start the engine are not related to the 'hot start' problem. The problem referred to by that name relates only to bad idling after starting.

This problem appears to pop up on every year of DSM if the conditions are right. Dealerships are often completely unable to diagnose or even replicate the problem.

First diagnosed in the 1990 year, Mutsibishi developed a 'kludge box' - an add-on ECU modification - designed to fix the problem, and released TSBs #18-08-91 and 18-55-91 describing it. Other model years have no such box available, nor are there any TSBs. Since TSBs are not warranties, 1990 owners may still be out of luck. There are no reports that the kludge box was effective anyway, but at least 1990 owners have a definite 'fix' to try out.

Later 1G owners have reported a bewildering array of 'fixes' to this problem. Owners have reported hot start problems that they have attributed to many different components. Fortunately, Jim McKenna put together a nice Hot Start FAQ  that should help you diagnose the problem. However, since the problem can arise from a large number of component failures, you may end up systematically going through your engine to find the problem component.

2G cars also have this problem, which is puzzling since they are largely different from their 1G counterparts. There has been speculation that there is some kind of flaw or design error in the 2G engine or ECU software that allows this problem to occur. In other cases, the ECUs were able to flag a specific error that helped the owners track down the errant sensor that was causing the difficulty. In any case, the fixes described in the Hot Start FAQ  may still help out 2G owners. Other fixes include changing thermostats, switching brands of gas, and general fuel and ignition systems troubleshooting.

It is possible, however, that some (or all) of these problems are nothing more than good old-fashioned vapor lock. Gasoline blends vary according to climate, and winter fuels have more volatility than summer fuels. (In other words, winter gas vaporizes better.) In warm temperatures winter gas might vaporize more than it should. Since fuel pumps cannot pump vapor, the engine does not get the fuel it requires to idle properly and it ends up stumbling. Eventually the problem cures itself once the vapor is cleared from the fuel system. Presumably it will go away in colder temperatures or once summer fuels become available.

The Last Word: No real consistent fix has ever been discovered for this problem. Personally, I think it's a combination of two problems: an ECU coding bug, where the ECU gets "confused" because the temperature and other sensor inputs do not correspond to the actual engine condition on a "warm start", and good old-fashioned vapor lock in fluctuating weather conditions. YMMV.

If the hot start fixes page is a 404, you can view the answer here: How do I fix the hot start problem?

This is commonly attributed to the hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters) used in the DSM cars. Other cars have similar problems - Mazda owners, for example, refer to them as HLA problems. Other possible causes include excessive carbon buildup on the valves and piston heads.

The general consensus is that this problem is not damaging to the engine. Indeed, many owners have lived with the problem for years with no side effects. In extreme cases, it is possible that the ticking may be picked up by the ECU as knock, causing a retardation in timing that will cost some engine power. This case seems to be the exception, not the rule, since the DSM ECU only 'listens' for knock during specific time intervals.

In the past, owners have reported that their tick appeared or went away with certain oil brands, oil weights, oil filters, oil pressures or the like. These 'solutions' appear to be car-specific and do not represent a real fix, but some experimentation may help alleviate the problem. Some owners find that adding a small amount of extra oil helps to raise oil pressures and minimize the ticking, but again, it doesn't work for everyone.

Yet another solution involves realigning the lifters in the engine to promote better oil retention. Jeff Brinkerhoff recently did so with excellent results, reported in the December 2, 1998 Digest. Bryan Cobb has followed his example with similar success. Check the FAQ Locator to find the procedure.

Simply replacing the problem lifters is unquestionably the best option. The lifters have been redesigned to eliminate the tick. There is a VFAQ on this process, which is not terribly difficult, and involves about as much work as realigning the existing lifters. Use the FAQ Locator to find it. The newer lifters apparantly do not rotate, and do not suffer from alignment problems.

There have actually been a few versions of the lifters. The original were Mitsubishi part number MD149309 used in 1990 to 1997 cars. A redesigned version (part MD337687) was then introduced, and was replaced yet again by part MD377054. This latest part number is reportedly the best version but the availability may be limited if dealerships still have some of the older part still in inventory.

Mike Ferrara focused on the problem of carbon deposits on the valves. It is a relatively dangerous procedure, as it involves pouring automatic transmission fluid into the intake of the engine. As fluids are incompressible, a miscalculation can literally devastate your engine. A few DSMers have experienced major engine damage from performing this procedure incorrectly. Thus, this procedure is not recommended for the novice mechanic

Rather than doing this dangerous procedure, those who have non-lifter tick problems should consider using Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner on their car. Other Digest members have had considerable success using it to clean major carbon deposits in the DSM engines. Read the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner discussion captured on VFAQ page

Other sources of non-lifter tick include exhaust system problems including a cracked exhaust manifold, broken exhaust maifold bolt or stud, cracked turbine housing or other exhaust leak. Some owners have reported that their tick went away after changing, repairing or upgrading their manifolds. Others have found that their spark wires (whether new, old, upgraded or whatever) were arcing to the block, causing a sparking sound they mistook for lifter tick. This is usually detected by looking under the hood at a running engine in the dark. Finally, a few owners are sure their ticking is really the injectors firing.

Excessive engine vibration is a telltale sign that the balance shafts (also known as silent shafts) are out of alignment. These shafts are designed to counterbalance the engine to keep it from shaking during normal operation.

If the engine vibration just started, do NOT start or drive your car until you can verify that the balance shaft belt is okay. If the belt is old or worn, it can jump, causing the balance shafts to be out of phase. This, in itself, will not damage your engine, but is a symptom of much larger potential problems.

The real problem is that if the balance belt jumped, it may be getting ready to break, and could the next time you start your car. This in itself is not a bad thing (the car runs fine without the balance belt at all), but the balance belt has a nasty habit of hitting the timing belt after breaking. The timing belt will often jump or break after such treatment, which is, literally, an engine-destroying event. You can count on losing at least eight valves if the timing belt jumps, and probably all sixteen if it breaks. Repair costs can run into the thousands. It is for this reason that the balance shaft belt should be replaced at least as often as the main timing belt.

It is also possible that the engine will shake immediately after a timing belt change. This is indicative of a simple misalignment of the balance shafts in the engine. Running the car that way is not damaging, but is obviously undesireable. Return the car to the shop in question to have the timing re-done - driving it there is usually ok, although towing is great (especially if you can get the shop to do it). Read the timing belt VFAQ for more information. (Yes, it's listed in the FAQ Locator.)

Try putting a small amount of Ajax on the back of the offending belt(s) and running the car. This helps clean the belts off. If this does not work, you can purchase belt dressing from any auto parts store that might quiet them down a bit. You can also check the belts for correct tension - sometimes overtightening the belts (by just a bit!) will eliminate the problem.

Inspect your underdrive pulley. Make sure it is not cracked.

There have been reports that badly rebuilt alternator may also be the cause of the squealing belt. Try another alternator as a last resort.

Yes. Replace your thermostat. Although you can use a cooler thermostat, this may not be a good idea. See this answer for why.

If this fails to solve the problem, you may be having difficulties with your coolant temperature sensor. This sensor also affects idle, air/fuel mixture, and timing, and failures can generally be detected by the ECU as error code #21. A burned out fan switch or relay may also be the fault.

For racers that run their car at sustained high RPMs, it is possible that their cooling pump may not be operating that well due to cavitation. For these people, an underdrive pulley will spin the cooling pump slower than typical, allowing it to operate properly. This is not a concern for non-racers.

If you have ECMLink, start the car with the rad cap off.

• Let the car get to up temp with rad cap off and watch ECMLink and the coolant at the thermostat housing. it should not be flowing.. just gurgling a little. If flowing. you have a stuck thermostat.
• Once the temps reaches 183-187... the thermostat should open and you should see temps dropping to below 180.
• When you see temps drop, looks at the coolant.. it should be flowing.  
• Once it drops below 180, coolant should stop flowing.
• *** If coolant is flowing all the time, you have a bad thermostat.
• At one point once the coolant has cycled from rad to block a few times at idle, the rad fans will come on as there is no airflow across the rad.
• *** If rad fans don't come on, you may have a bad temp sensor, fan relay or fan.

No. This is normal. It is simply the air moving through the intake/bov that you are hearing.

Chances are you used silicone to installed a 1G BOV to your 2G. The silicone can plug up a little secondary air hole in the BOV. The hole is located next to the main BOV hole on the mounting flange. Clean out that little hole and the chirp should go away.

The Last Word: If it's more a whistle than a chirp, it may be the infamous "boost canary", caused by the BOV opening and closing. Don't worry about it.

Poor boost is often a symptom of other problems.  It is important to know why the boost is low before attempting corrections.

The DSM ECUs have partial control over the amount of turbo boost through the use of the boost control solenoid (BCS) a.k.a. thewastegate bypass solenoid.  Under normal driving conditions, the BCS is open and allows the wastegate to open at the normal intake pressure.  Should the ECU detect a serious problem with the engine, it will often close the BCS, causing the wastegate to open sooner and lowering the turbo boost produced.

The ECU uses the BCS to reduce turbo boost in several situations.  Should the ECU detect a large amount of airflow into the engine, the BCS will be pulsed off and on to reduce the air intake to acceptable levels.  This can lower the turbo boost significantly, and usually only occurs at high RPMs.  This is usually a temporary problem, which disappears when the intake airflow drops to more normal levels.

The ECU will also close the BCS if it detects significant engine knock.  Knock, also known as preignition or detonation, is a damaging condition brought on by excessively advanced ignition timing, lean air-fuel mixtures and/or low octane or poor quality gasoline.  The BCS is the second and last line of defense against knock - the ECU will first retard the ignition timing in an attempt to prevent knock.  If this fails, the BCS will close to reduce the intake air flow (and boost pressure) to a minimum value, hopefully eliminating the knock at the expense of engine power.

A simple LED monitor circuit can be constructed to check the operation of the BCS.  If the BCS is pulsing, or remains closed during typical engine operation, it means that you may have some other problem that is making the ECU very nervous.  This is often accompanied by retarded engine timing, resulting in a further power loss, all of which makes the car much slower than it should be.  Note that the operation of the BCS monitor is not necessarily intuitive - study the Troubleshooting section, this issue of the Diagnostic Port, and the Boost Solenoid Details page very carefully before deciding you have a problem.

If the BCS is not operating as expected, suspects include poor quality gas, excessive turbo pressures, injector malfunctions, oxygen sensor malfunctions, and anything else that can lead to a low-octane, air-rich mixture inside the cylinders.  Differences in mass airflow sensors from car to car will also affect the operation of the BCS.

If the BCS is fine, the timing may still be retarded due to airflow or knock problems.  If you are certain this is not the case, it may be time for some modifications; see "What should I do to make my car faster, or handle better?" , above.

If you are certain this information does not relate to your problem, check your intercooler hoses. Often a hose has popped off, or is leaking air badly. Another spot to check is the wastegate actuator; make sure the actuator rod is still connected to the wastegate door. Otherwise, the wastegate may be flopping open and letting out all the boost air. Sometimes the arm has broken off the wastegate due to a rusted-out holding pin.

This is called boost creep, and occurs when the turbo is pushing so much air that the wastegate, even when fully open, cannot dump all of the intake pressure.  This results in a continual increase in intake pressure, and is common with upgraded turbos, especially with upgradeddownpipes - the exhaust would rather flow through the turbo/exhaust than the more restrictive wastegate, which spins the turbo ever faster.  Cars with this problem can develop mind-blowing (and engine-blowing) intake pressures in a hurry.

The general solution to this problem is to port the oxygen sensor housing, turbine housing and/or wastegate to allow them to dump more air.  Otherwise minor malfunctions of the wastegate may also exhibit themselves as boost creep, such as poor travel on the wategate actuator arm.  Some people use an external wastegate for better pressure control.

Check out Tom Stangl's - O2 Housing Porting vfaq. (archived PDF)

People interested in more theory behind this problem will enjoy Dennis Grant's Turbo Fundamentals Series.

Owners who run high levels of boost to little or no effect on their cars may have their base engine timing set incorrectly. Although the ECU advances the timing as much as possible during operation, it has a limited range. If the timing is pulled back excessively, the ECU may not have enough adjustment to re-set it back into the correct range. Retarded timing leads directly to a loss of power.

The ability to run high boost levels and still go slow appears to be directly related to timing problems - DSMers who have run 18-20 psi with retarded timing suddenly find themselves hitting fuel cut at 14 psi, once their base timing is set properly. They also find their car is faster at 14 psi than it was at 18 psi, a direct result of timing advance. If you boost like crazy but still can't get decent times, check your timing straight away. See here for some info on how to do it.

This question comes up a lot, mostly because people misunderstand what fuel cut is for, and why it occurs at all. For the answer to this, read this chapter of the ECU Primer.

The simple answer is that because fuel cut is pre-programmed into the ECU, there is no method of disabling it. There are no modifications that can do so, aside from an ECU upgrade that eliminates fuel cut.  Upgraded fuel pumps, injectors, and fuel pressure regulators do nothing to avoid or eliminate fuel cut.  NOTHING.

That being said, there are some methods (some cheap, some not) of postponing fuel cut. All the methods work on one principle: fooling the ECU into thinking there is less air entering the engine than, in fact, there is. This can be done by adding unmetered air, or by changing the sensor inputs used by the ECU to determine air mass. Of course, these methods usually mean the engines run leaner than stock.  Again, read Chapter 7 of the ECU primer for details.

Budget Methods include:

• removing the lower honeycomb from the MAS. See the FAQ Locator (look in the "Intake" section) and Jim McKenna's MAS modification page for more information.
• 'Gutting' (cutting out) the lower section of the MAS. This involves cutting out the entire lower section of the MAS - delaying fuel cut, but making the engine run leaner - and altering the intake air temperature sensor to compensate. Mike Jackson also does this - read his information here.
• plumbing in a secondary air intake after the MAS. Use extreme caution!
• the dime-store fuel cut defenser (DSFCD) for 1G or 2G.  Use appropriate caution.
• fuel management computers, like a VPC or PMS. See the Glossary for details.

Proper Method

An ECU upgrade to ECMLINK or AEM is the only way to really eliminate fuel cut

Crankbender@DSMTuners: 
WHAT SHOULD I NOT DO TO PREVENT FUEL CUT?
Do not decrease air counts without adding more fuel per air count. This will cause you to just run lean all the time and cause exactly what fuel cut tries to prevent. So....
DO NOT PUT IN A FUEL CUT DEFENDER.
DO NOT RUN A 2G MAF ON A 1G WITHOUT A WAY TO BALANCE IT OUT.
DO NOT JUST LEAN OUT YOUR AFC TO UNSAFE AFRs.
DO NOT TURN DOWN YOUR GM MAFT TO UNSAFE AFRs.
DO NOT TRY AND PUT IN LARGER INJECTORS WITHOUT FUEL MANAGEMENT.
DO NOT TRY TO UP THE FUEL PRESSURE WITHOUT FUEL MANAGEMENT.

The dip stick is often usually forced out by excessive crankcase pressure.  In many cases, however, this is not due to an increase in crankcase pressure - rather, it is due to a decrease in the holding power of the dip stick.  Lots of these cars are over 5 years old, with many approaching the 10 year mark, and most rubber parts have lots their original resiliant nature.  The rubber plug on the dip stick may have shrunk and hardened over time, causing the stick to come out more easily than before.

Read Jack's Transmissions PCV article. 

If replacing the dip stick rubber doesn't help, the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is often at fault.  This is an inexpensive little part that is supposed to vent excess pressure, but it can wear out or clog.  A quick replacement may be in order.

Another possibility is replacing the breather hose with a small K&N valve cover filter, which will hopefully help to vent excess pressure.  Bad turbo oil seals and worn piston rings are the next likely suspects.

Tip: Attach a small clamp near neck of oil tube. Then find a spring that will hold on to the diptick and attach other end of spring to clamp.

There is a TSB for this problem, number TSB080795, NHTSA Item Number: SB039984.  Unfortunately, no summary or listing of this TSB is currently available on the web. 

One DSMer suggested simply sticking a pin into the vent hole on the windshield washer reservoir cap. The stock hole is so small that it is hardly visible, and can easily get clogged. Cleaning or enlarging the hole keep pressure from building up in the system.

This is usually poor ignition, caused by:

• bad, incorrect, platinum or poorly gapped spark plugs
• bad or loose plug wires
• bad ignition coil
• bad transistor pack

Try swapping each one out until you fix the problem. Testing the components may or may not reveal the problem; many people have had components (especially wires) test ok, but perform badly on the car. Plug wires may also be loose in the coil pack, although they may look fine.

Other possible causes include

• a bad battery connection (or bad battery), leading to poor power to the fuel pump;
• misaligned timing belt;
• excessively high airflow through the 1G MAS, leading to 'missed' counts;
• incorrect routing of the vacuum hoses on the throttle body (there was a mistake in a shop manual somewhere);
• decaying of the ECU capacitors (a must read - go here for details);
• worn camshaft lobes (normally only a possible problem on certain aftermarket parts called Web Cams);
• or (in at least one case) a broken thermostat.

Those with an interest in spark plug theory will enjoy this post about Basic Theory of Spark Plug Operation. 

The general consensus is that this is caused by the BOV, which can stick or plug. This appears to be especially true of the 2G BOV, although some 1G owners have had this problem as well.

Alexander Kowalski's Jan 27, 1999 fix to his off-throttle stumble went like this (edited for presentation):

"I took the BOV off a today for a closer look. I found some RTV plugging up a 3 mm diameter hole at the base of the BOV. This hole appears to be part of a passage in the BOV casting that travels straight up to the top. I am assuming it is some sort of return relief passage.

Not only did clearing the RTV solve my off throttle stumble, my BOV no longer sounds like a loud bird shriek between shifts. Its more like the soft 'phfft' sound I have associated with my two previous BOVs. Darn, other than scaring the heck out of my wife I really liked that sound."

Cleaning the BOV, replacing it or upgrading to a 1G unit should solve the problem. Owners of adjustable BOVs report that setting the BOV too tightly will cause this same problem, so a quick adjustment may be in order.

Owners who are having the problem with the engine RPM dropping abnormally low after letting off the throttle may be having problems with the speed sensor or idle switch on their cars. If one of these is malfunctioning the ECU may not realize the throttle is at idle until the engine RPM drops below the normal idle speed.

This problem is fuel starvation caused by fuel sloshing around in the tank during hard cornering.  Depending on the direction of the turn, the fuel pump pickup can get uncovered, leaving the pump with nothing to pump but air.

Owing to differences in fuel tank design, 1G AWDs have this problem when executing hard left corners, while 2G FWD turbos have problems with hairpin right turns.  In both cases the fuel pickups are on the side of the car which is on the inside of the turn; of course, the fuel wants to be on the outside (opposite) side of the car.

The only fix for this problem is to have enough fuel.  Most recommend at least 1/4 tank of fuel, but some hardcore autoxers say they need at least 3/4 of a tank.

2G AWDs and 1G FWDs apparantly do not suffer from this problem as much, as their fuel pickups are located differently. Despite this, autocrossers may still run into the problem.

This is a symptom of a broken speed switch, which is a part of the speedometer in the instrument cluster assembly. With the switch inactive, the ECU does not know the car is moving and doesn't keep the idle high enough to operate the power brakes.

Sally Vegso reported that her pulsation problem was caused by using Dextron ATF in her automatic transmission. Replacing the fluid with Mitsubishi Diamond ATF solved the problem immediately.

Quite possibly none - the DSM engines seem remarkably tolerant of overreving. Dozens of DSMers have accidentally taken the engine waaay past redline for significant period of time without any damage. Read these posts for some good information on previous experiences with over-the-top engine speeds.

"[This is] ...caused by water evaporating in the exhaust stream. Occasional puffs [are] usually from condensation in the exhaust pipes (especially in humid areas) or a water balloon up your stove-pipe. Continual white smoke [is usually due to] a warped head/head gasket and coolant entering your combustion chambers. If you're really unlucky, might be from a cracked head."

Some people have reported that high boost levels may promote white smoke, for some reason. Turning the boost down some cures the problem. This might be related to worn out seals on the turbo, which can leak oil into the exhaust. A bad brake booster can potentially let brake fluid into the vacuum line, which also produces white smoke.

"This is caused by uncombusted [unburned] fuel. Could be plugs, timing, clogged air filter, air/fuel mixture, wires, coil, etc. Start with the cheapest answer and work your way up."

Please refer to David's Turbocharger Troubleshooting Chart

Lorrin Barth pointed out that a fourth cause, especially on rebuilt heads, may be poor fit between the valves and the valve guides.

Also check out David's Turbocharger Troubleshooting diagnostic chart for a comprehensive guide to smoking and other engine problems.

ccording to Pete Paraska, there are three ways oil can get into your intake:

• (1) Through the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve.
• (2) Through the hose leading from the valve cover to the intake pipe.
• (3) From an leaky oil seal in your turbocharger.

#1 is true regardless of the age of the valve.
#2 is a symptom of blow-by, where oil is getting past the piston rings.

DSMers often install oil catch can [[What is a catch can?] in an effort to keep oil out of the intake.

No, this is normal. Exhaust gas temperatures on DSMs range from about 775 degC to 825 degC on-highway, depending on whether you are within or over the speed limit. Most materials start to get 'red' hot at about 800 degrees C. The only solution to this 'problem' is to take it easy on the throttle.

Unfortunately, it is typical for 1G cars to end up with cracks in the exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing and/or turbocharger housing. There is not much that can be done to prevent this, short of replacing original 1G manifolds or O2 housings with their more robust 2G counterparts. This is obviously not much of an option for the turbocharger, given the stock 2G turbo is smaller than the stock 1G turbo, and is obviously no help to 2G owners.

Short of replacement, sometimes the offending parts can be welded to close the cracks. This does not prevent them from cracking again, however. Unless you get a good deal on welding, it is probably best to simply replace the parts (preferably with upgraded parts). Those with cracked manifolds should know that many aftermarket exhaust headers also have significant problems with cracking.

Important: If your clutch is dragging, stop driving the car immediately. Read Jack's transmissions Clutch Drag Kills Syncros.

Poor shifting is a hallmark of 1G cars. 2G owners have vastly improved transmissions, and do not generally suffer from bad shifting. If you have a 2G that has shifting problems, you must read  about possible problems with crankwalk on the 2Gs.

For 1G cars, there are several fixes.  There are also several TSBs on this problem, for various years.  Check the NHTSA site for TSB information.  Remember, TSBs are neither warranties nor recalls.

Solution #1 came up in 1992 when the first TSB called for adding a 'friction modifier' to the transmission fluid.  The modifier increases the frictional coefficient of the fluid, so the synchronizer rings (synchros) match speeds faster.  There have also been several synchro design updates throughout the various years, intended to improve the crunchy shifting.  Of course, to take advantage of these requires a transmission rebuild.

Many DSMers recomment using Redline MT90 or Genuine Mitsubishi DIA Queen in place of the Redline MTL from years ago. Not many are left using BG Synchroshift or GM Synchromesh days due to claims of early syncro failure among the majority.  All of these fluids have the same purpose - to increase friction, just as the Mitsu fluid modifier is intended to do.  Most owners report at least some improvement with the new fluids, but most experience significantly better shifting. Opinions and experiences vary.

Recent experience suggests that Redline MTL gains in shifting performance by sacrificing synchro longevity. This is not exactly news, but more and more owners are reporting this problem with MTL now that there are alternative fluids available. Many owners considered the tradeoff to be well worth it. However, more people are now recommending a mix of Redline MTL with MT-90 gear oil, to combat both problems at once or just use straight MT-90.

Poor clutch disengagement has recently become a suspect for poor shifting in DSM cars. Refer to [[What are the symptoms of poor clutch disengagement?]] for more information. There is a great writeup on hotrod.com | How to Diagnose Your Own Clutch System Problems - Be Your Own Disc Doctor (or download archive PDF)

Problems have sometimes been found in the shift linkage as well, leading to the Tighter Shifter Page (90-94) (or download archive PDF) that describes how to rebuild the linkage in 1G DSMs for improved performance. Kyle Jones even found that an incorrect aftermarket lower radiator hose was interfering with his shift cables and causing crummy shifting; cutting the hose shorter did the trick.

The Last Word: Eric B. would like to add:

"On the topic of Redline gear oil eating away the syncronizers in your transmission, there is a reason for that. It is the wrong API service grade (GL-5). Chemically, GL-5 isn't friendly with brass and will deteriorate your syncros, which is why differentials and transfer cases seemingly only call for it. Almost all (if not all?) transaxles require a GL-4 service oil. This is most overlooked by everyone. I found out the hard way also from my other car's transmission. I verified this being the cause of failure from a handful of machinist and transmission specialists. By mixing it as stated on the page, it is merely being dilluted and the corrosive effect is still existing, but reduced."

Sean Costall: "Personally, my car has had MTL and Syncroshift in it since '96, and it still shifts fine on the original tranny. YMMV. [Thanks, Eric!]"

For those owning a new clutch, it is normal for the engagement point to drop low. The DSM clutch mechanisms are so constructed as to move the engagement point higher as the clutch wears.

Jack's how to adjust the clutch

Next try Jafromobile - Bleed your clutch.

Gary Selph, John Snodgrass and Kevin Fabec all found one of the connecting rods for the clutch mechanism was worn, causing the clutch to engage lower that it should. This may be a fairly common but easily overlooked problem, especially on older cars. A good test is to see if you can pull the clutch pedal up with your foot. If you can, the rod is likely worn.

Another commonly overlooked clutch problem is wear on the clutch fork or pivot ball. The clutch fork could also possibly be bent, especially if heavy-duty clutches have been used. The pivot ball and clutch fork have both been mentioned as 'wear items' and should be considered for replacement if a new clutch is going in anyway. 

See Jack's Pivot Ball Shimming: 

Of course, the problem may also be related to the clutch master cylinder. Replacing the cylinder and clutch lines can sometimes fix the problem. A few people have used stainless steel lines. It is far from required, but some people have found a steel line improved the clutch pedal feel quite a bit.

Poor clutch pedal feel can often be attributed to binding of moving mechanical parts. Alternatively, problems in the clutch hydraulic system may be to blame, or a combination of both.

Despite popular opinion, it is possible to have a DSM that has a 'good' feeling clutch pedal. The key points appear to be to grease all the moving parts - throwout bearing, clutch fork and pivot ball - with a high-quality grease, and to replace the old stock clutch line with a stainless steel line (or, at least, a new rubber line). These items combine to prevent mechanical friction and hydraulic problems that can contribute to a poor clutch pedal feel.

Stronger clutches such as Centerforce Dual-Friction and ACT 2600 clutches have long had the reputation of providing a very stiff pedal. In these cases is it even more important that the clutch installation pay particular attention to the above items. In some cases, owners have reported their 'heavier' clutches feel better than 'lighter' clutches in a different car.

There have been many good reviews using Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) Streetlite Flywheel and Southbend Clutch and Pressure Plates.

If you have the money, you can look at Twin Disc Clutch System from ACT ($1400+)

Poor clutch disengagement can lead to the following problems:

• A very low engagement point on the clutch.
• Persistent grinding when shifting. Note this may also be caused by worn syncros.
• Shifter blocking, where the transmission simply will not shift into gear, especially at high RPMs.
• A tendancy for the car to creep forward when the clutch is supposedly disengaged.

In summary, here are most of the possible causes of clutch engagement/disengagement problems and their solutions. They are ranked in rough order of least difficult/expensive to most difficult/expensive. Most of these symptoms also apply to shifting problems that can manifest due to poor clutch disengagement.

Paying attention to the above items can make your next clutch swap a real success.

Visit: Why does my clutch engage/disengage very close to the floor? for how to adjust your clutch properly

This is a symptom of a serious problem, at least on 1G DSMs. Shifter movement is not generally normal in DSMs. Having the shifter move around, especially in 5th gear, or popping out of gear (even once or twice) could be an indication of a loose retaining nut inside the transmission. Several 1G DSMers have had the rotten experience of having this nut come off completely, and consequently blasting a hole in their transmission. This problem only affects FIFTH gear - gears 1 through 4 and reverse do not appear to suffer from this difficulty.

Those who are uncertain must know that both by Paul Lyons and Ashok Babu had their transmissions fail on them. Don't take a chance on this one, since the inspection procedure is easy.

This problem does not appear as common on 2Gs, and at least one owner has reported that there was a loose nut in his shifting assembly that was causing the shifter to pop out of 5th. This is NOT the same nut that is involved in the 1G problem.

David Cox had a problem where the engine RPMs would jump and the car wouldn't accelerate. In his case, it was the torque converter. Dan Henderson also had this problem, but all that was required was to refill the transmission with the correct amount of fluid.

In the case where the automatic transmission works except for the overdrive (4th gear), Kurtis Bredda had the "end clutch" (Mitsubishi part # MD723508) fail. Please see http://www.plymouthlaser.com/ for information on end clutch replacement.

According to Terry Livermore in the July 8, 2000 Digest:

"Winding down or "coast down" whine or howl noises that go away when the accelerator is depressed are often caused by a loose or worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential. These are usually loudest between 45 to 25 MPH. I once pulled the transfer case and driveshaft and drove a little to make sure before I decided where mine was coming from."

Transmission shaft spline wear can incorrectly be blamed on 'rusting'. It is usually the result of loose parts in the driveline setup that shift around, eventually grinding away the splines. 

Read Jack's Transmissions page about output shaft spline wear

This is normal for most DSMs. The alternator output drops slightly when the engine is idling, and the headlights will dim slightly.

Similarily, turning on the brake lights or turn signal puts an additional electrical load on the alternator. As a result, the alternator output voltage drops slightly, resulting in slightly dimmer lights. This holds true even for Canadians-spec DSMs equipped with the larger 90A alternator, and especially at idle. It is not a sign of malfunction.

Most DSMs have this problem.  Here are the fixes, courtesy of Tom Stangl (the VFAQ man), from a post in the Digest of Sept 25, 1998:

"The fixes are, in increasing order of difficulty

1 - Clean and lube the rubber channels in the window frame everywhere you can get to them without tearing the door apart.  Do this by getting any rubber/vinyl cleaner, putting it on a rag, and wiping the channels until the rag comes out clean.  This may take a LOT of cleaning. Then lube with NuVinyl, anti-static ArmorAll, or even dielectric grease (YES, this grease works well and does not gum up if put on VERY lightly and then rubbed off).  

2 - Open up the door, and clean/lube the bottom section of the rubber channels you couldn't get to in #1.  This will take raising and lowering the window to get all the areas.

3 - Check the bolts that hold the window to the window guide bar to make sure they are not loose.

4 - Loosen the bolts that hold the guide bar to the door, and move it forward or back to get the      window to go up perfectly straight (not a lot of adjustment here, but it doesn't take much).

5 - Loosen the window guides (the metal brackets covered in bristly material) a little so they don't      push on the window so hard."

Michael Reisin reported good results with using silicone grease of the type normally used on stock plug boots. He recommends greasing the window glass run channels in the interior of the door very well with this grease for a semi-permanent fix to the sticky window problem.

For those who are truly sick of the problem and don't mind using a little judicious force to set things right, Jeff Earl's solution involves bending the window track (only a little, so chill out) and removing a fastener that appears to interfere with the window operation.

Tom Stangl has a FAQ for this particular problem up now. Also try using the FAQ Locator to find it, or other FAQs on this problem.

Problems with the power lock switches, lock mechanisms and actuators seem to be more common on 2G cars than 1G cars. Some of the problems have been caused by loose window switches, while others have been blamed on contamination of the lock mechanisms with debris, or simply worn out actuators.

Also, one DSMer reported a factory build problem on certain limited '99 model cars. Apparantly, the factory applied too much sealant to the inside of the door. The extra sealant (or 'gunk') can run and leak into the door locks, causing them to progressively freeze up or otherwise misbehave.

Unfortunately, the only solutions are to repair or replace the affected parts. Loose window switches can usually be fixed by repairing the screw mounting points that hold them in the door. Actuators generally must be replaced, as do door lock mechanisms.

If the doors unlock themselves, it's often because the alarm "thinks" there is a key in the ignition. Improper installation of a turbo timer can cause this. This is a feature designed to prevent you locking your keys in your car.

If the alarm does not go off when the door is opened, the door pinswitches require cleaning or replacement. The switches corrode over time. Sometimes cleaning with baking soda is all that is required.

The stock batteries in DSMs are not reputed to last very long. Many people experience failures within the first year.

Most people recommend replacing the stock battery with another brand, such as an Optima, Diehard or other aftermarket make.

It should be noted that poor contact (corrosion) on the battery terminals can cause the battery to behave as if it were dead, even though it may be ok. Also, persistently dead batteries may be the fault of the alternator or voltage regulator, not the battery. Poor idle and other problems can be caused by a defective battery.

Another little-known and highly annoying fact is that auto batteries, with few exceptions, are not designed to be run dead and then recharged, making them very different from most other rechargeable batteries. Recharging the battery too quickly will result in large amounts of internal heat, causing battery damage. Typical recharging methods (auto battery chargers, or running the car for a while) may damage even "bulletproof" batteries. Charge dead batteries gently to avoid this problem.

Those caught in the dead-battery trap will want this refresher course in how to properly jumpstart a car. A few notes on these techniques: the negative is connected away from the dead battery (onto the frame) to minimize the chance of creating a spark that might ignite hydrogen gas leaking from the dead battery. This is what can cause a battery to explode, not the 'parallel' nature of the batteries, as described in DDD#7. Fortunately, few modern automotive batteries are prone to leaking flammable gases, but better safe than sorry.

For lots of info on batteries in general, read Alex's Electronic Resource Library

The Last Word: Some DSMs just seem to eat batteries. The proliferation of stock and aftermarket electrical accessories such as headlights, fog lights, in-car entertainment and navigation systems can strain a 12V system. That's why some car makers have changed to the 42V system. Storing a car for the winter with the battery connected can also draw down the cells owing to current draws from accessories in standby modes.

Battery-eating monster cars may also eat a corresponding number of alternators, making things extra hard on the battery. Investing a hardy deep-cycle battery like an Optima yellow or blue top might prolong your battery life - or, possibly, just give you enough to limp home the next time your alternator fails. Remember, the less times you discharge your battery, the better - even one discharge to 9V or less can be quite hard on it.

No. Aftermarket pumps are almost always louder than the stock pump - it is one of the prices you pay for getting the increased pump performance. The Walboro upgrade pumps are notorious for this 'problem', while ND and the Supra fuel pump are reportedly a little quieter (but more expensive). Adding soundproofing to the rear of the car should help. 

Deatschwerks fuel pumps are turbine based and are reported to be much quieter and are E85 compatible.

This is normal, and is a symptom of the alternator voltage dropping while under load - the same reason why headlights tend to dim at idle. Tom Stangl did some testing with a fuel pressure gauge and found that his fuel pressure remained 'rock solid' despite the changing noise of the fuel pump, indicating the pump is still pushing more fuel than the fuel pressure regulator needs.

Those who find this problem annoying or worrisome can fix it (or at least mitigate it somewhat) by doing the fuel pump wiring upgrade described here.

This is largely a 2G problem, where the fuel gauge sender unit has been knocked out of position. This often happens when the dealer does the gas tank recall on the car.

2G owners should look into getting the sender unit fixed.

If all your lights are out, all at once, it is likely that the fuse for either the rear brake lights or rear marker lights has burned out. This fuse is linked to the dash lights to alert the driver that something is wrong. Check the fuses.

Most DSMs will have at least one switch light burned out by now. Probably more.

This is often because your battery is sliding around and contacting the top of the hood momentarily. Check your battery and make sure it is secure.

This is usually an indication that the speed sensor [[What is a speed sensor?]] behind the speedometer has failed. Without an accurate speed reference the cruise control refuses to set.

Another possible problem is wear on the clutch pedal, preventing the clutch pedal from coming up all the way. If this occurs the pedal will not press the switch that tells the ECU that the clutch is engaged. Consequently, the ECU "thinks" the clutch pedal is down and it won't allow the cruise control to be set.

An easy test is to pull up the clutch pedal with your foot and try the cruise control again. If it works, you have clutch linkage problems. For more information on this problem, read the answer to this question.

If the cruise control will set, a split vacuum hose caused cruise control to continually drop the vehicle speed. Eventually the hose popped off completely, and the cruise would not maintain any speed at all. Several DSMers have run into this problem

If the cruise control sets and holds speed, but 'hunts' (oscillates) around the correct speed, don't worry too much. Even stock DSMs have a certain point where the cruise control will oscillate slightly. This is due to the nature of the turbocharged engine - when the cruise control speeds the car up, the turbo kicks in and the car accelerates faster than the cruise control expected it to. The cruise is forced to decelerate to compensate, but the car will also slow down faster than expected as the turbo pressure dies out. The net result is a slight, constant surging on and off boost.

2G cars have this sound. It is normal.

1Gs have this sound too - for the rear wiper.

Yes.  It should turn off after a few seconds.

If your "Check Engine" light does not turn on, the bulb is probably burned out. Replace it.

No. Get it serviced.

This indicator is lit every time the ECU detects a problem (any kind) with the car.  Often the cause is a sensor failure.

The ECU outputs a diagnostic code whenever the "Check Engine" light is lit. For 1G owners, you can:

• use a Chrysler scan tool to read the code. Not an option for most people, but still.....
• use a multimeter to read the code, as described in the shop manual, or as in this post by an early club member.
• use an LED to read the code, as described in this post by another club member, and this post from December 1998. The December post also details many of the output codes.
• use a buzzer to read the code, as described at the Diagnostic Engine Codes and Procedure page.  This page also has a list of many of the codes.

2G turbo owners need an OBD tool to read the ECU codes. Non-turbo owners can cycle the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, and the "Check Engine" light will blink out the codes. For NT owners, the codes are the same as a Neon. For the meaning of the codes, check the Digest archives, look in a shop manual, or check out this link from the 2G non-turbo pages.

Lots of 2G turbo owners mistakenly try to cycle the ignition key to get the 'Check Engine' light to blink out the codes. It doesn't work on Mitsubishi engines - only Chrysler engines. 2G NT cars have 420A Chrysler engines very similar to the Neon cars, while 2G T cars have 4G63 Mitsubishi engines similar to 1G cars. For this reason the codes are also different between 2G turbo and non-turbo cars.

Check this section of the Club DSM Homepage [Technical Difficulties/ECU Problems/Error Code Readers] for more information.

It is usually not a good idea to reset the ECU without first figuring out what is wrong.  See "How can I find out what the "Check Engine" light means?", above.  In many cases, resetting the ECU will increase the learn time, not decrease it.

For instructions on resetting the ECU and what this can accomplish, read this issue of The Diagnostic Port, and this section of the ECU Theory Series, both by Technomotive

This is usually a 2G problem. For a good explanation of why it happens, read the comments at the bottom of this post, and Scott Evans' description of ODBII functions. So far the only "fixes" are to replace the missing oxygen sensor, or to try and create and electronic replica "sensor" that makes the ECU believe the original sensor is still in place. Since the OBDII software in the second generation ECU also does sensor diagnositics, creating a fake sensor can be a touch tricky. Information on how this might be accomplished can be found here courtesy of Blake Heisler.

Here is an excerpt from message #7 of the December 22, 1998 Digest, where Todd Day (the 'talon mgr') summarizes this problem:

" What to do if you get a code 44? Well, it seems that no one on this list (myself included) ever got this code thrown for a legitimate reason, like the coil being blown or the drive transistors being dead. I would start with the connections that go from the ECU to the drive transistors, the connections between the drive transistors and the coils, and finally the "tachometer" feedback link from the transistor unit to the ECU. Lastly, check the ground on the transitors as well as the power lead to the coils.

Oldtimers on this list might remember that this very problem happened to me the morning of the Virginia City Hillclimb a few years back. I tried messing around with a lot of stuff, including wiggling all the coil connections. The problem magically went away and didn't come back until a few days later. I wiggled the connections again and it didn't come back until the next roadtrip I took. Again, after that, it happened on a long roadtrip. I've not since seen it in over four years. I have done nothing special to solve the problem other than wiggling the connections. Guess the last time was the charm."

Fortunately, Darrick Yezak has come up with a more specific answer to the code 44 gremlin. On his 1990 AWD, the wiring harness leading to the power transistor was short enough to actually end up pulling the wires out of the connector. After he extended the wires to eliminate the tension, his code 44 problem went away. He said he had similar success with two different cars. Aaron Litt found a similar problem - the bottom two connections on his '90 pack connector became corroded and caused a code 44 problem. Those plagued with the code 44 will want to check their harness and connector ASAP.

Code 44 CAN come up legitimately, but you will know it, because you'll suddenly be driving a 3000 lb go-kart. The power transistor is easier to change, so try it first.

Just replace the supports - it's not hard. They are available at JC Whitney, Canadian Tire and other automotive supply stores. The respective shops can look up the correct part number for you.

Read Tom Stangl's VFAQ on the subject for everything you need to know about how to do it. 

To help prevent the struts from wearing out prematurely, James Williamson suggests not 'helping' the hatch rise by pushing it upwards. This apparently helps keep the pressurized gases inside the struts.

Many owners, both 1G and 2G, have had problems with paint. Certain owners have found the clearcoat layer of the paint turns to powder, making black cars appear grey. Others have had problems with cracking, flaking, or imperfections in the paint.

Those who have problems can sometimes get satisfaction from a dealership - Chrysler and Mitsubishi are dealing with complaints on a 'one-on-one' basis. Dealers will sometimes repaint the affected areas for free. Unfortunately this is not a recall, and usually the car is out of warranty, but it's worth a shot. 1995 owners may have an edge, as there is a TSB for this problem on 1995 cars only (TSB-95-51-001), but it's still not a recall.

There is a nationwide class-action lawsuit being brought against Chrysler for paint problems. Check out the Hagens Berman website for some more information on this lawsuit. You can also read Kim's Peeling Paint Page for more links relating to the problem. Kim apparantly took Chrysler to court over her paint problems, and has advice which is generally applicable to all automotive problems. The class-action lawsuit is not a substitute for trying to work out problems with your local dealer.

Hey, it's a used car, and probably an old one at that. Most of them will have flaking clearcoat somewhere.

There are several things you can try to fix headlight lenses that have become cloudy, yellowed or scratched. Click on the method to find the referring poster:

• metal polish;
• plastic or plexiglass polish;
• C.L.R., or another similar rust remover;
• Wet sanding the lenses with ultra-fine grit sandpaper;
• or
• simply replacing the headlights with newer ones.

Robert Thompson had this to say regarding his headlight polishing experience (edited):

"Cataract Surgery on a 1993 TSi

• 1500 wet
• 2000 wet
• Mothers Mag & Alum polish ($8.49 CT) ( this contains Kerosene, no wonder it "works" on plastic )
• Mothers Stage 1 Cleaner (wax kit) ( also contains Kerosene )
• Mothers Stage 2 Sealer
• Mothers Stage 3 Wax
• Buffed, more Buffing, still more.

Had to repeat this 3 times!

The results? Well, to start, my lens looked like they had been sand blasted. Millions of little craters that had blended and smoothed into a dull crappy looking plastic lens. You really could not look into the light and see a bulb. (I was amazed as just how crappy they were when I sat down and really looked at them)

What made this job a lot easier to do was I have a Black & Decker "Mouse". So I just strapped on the appropriate adapter and buzzed away....

Speaking of the Dremel, DO NOT use it for this project. You can't get it to turn slow enough and in a nano second you will "burn" the lens. (Gee, how would I know? Well... It takes about 30 min to sand out the burn.)"

Be sure the check the FAQ Locator for up to date information.

Replacement headlights are available on eBay. Just replace them.

There is a TSB for this problem, number TSB080795, NHTSA Item Number: SB039984.  Unfortunately, no summary or listing of this TSB is currently available on the web. (Anyone who is willing to take the time to separate the 1995 DSM TSBs from the 1995 Sebring/Avenger TSBs should contact Todd Day for information on obtaining a copy of the TSB reference book.)

One DSMer suggested simply sticking a pin into the vent hole on the windshield washer reservoir cap. The stock hole is so small that it is hardly visible, and can easily get clogged. Cleaning or enlarging the hole keep pressure from building up in the system.

It is likely that the drain hoses underneath the sunroof are plugged. You can unpluf them with some stiff, flexible cord like 18AWG wire or weed-eater line.

..Unanswered..

All DSMs understeer from the factory. This is a natural consequence of using a FWD platform, since even the AWD cars were based on the FWD chassis. Understeer is generally considered 'safer' for the average driver, but can be a real pain for the advanced street or race driver. 

Running a sway bar in the rear along with softening the front suspension and tightening the rear seems to help.

Fortunately, many vendors offer suspension upgrades for DSMs. With judicious tuning (possibly with the help of a FAQ page from the Calgary Area DSM site (mirrored here), the understeer can be reduced or eliminated.

It is perfectly normal for the wheels (especially the rear wheels) of most DSMs to be tilted 'inwards' - that is, having the top of the wheels closer to the centerline than the bottom. This is the amount of camber that the car has stock, and is not a cause for concern.

For those with measureable excessive negative camber, there are several correction kits available from various vendors which involve plates, bolts, slotted struts or shorter control arms.  Several DIY methods exist using off-the-shelf parts as well, meaning there is something available for both front and rear on 1G and 2G cars. Usually, these kits are not necessary unless the car has been lowered, in which case camber correction becomes a necessity.

Canadians will be happy to know that Canadian Tire sells the eccentric bolts (TRW part# 13251A) required to do the front camber fix. Americans can buy Ingalls Engineering bolts from NAPA. DSMers from both countries can investigate the Ingalls Engineering websitefor more information.

With regards to the control arm modifications, note that hardcore racers may prefer extending the upper arm, rather than shortening the lower arm, to prevent the rear wheels from being pulled in towards the centreline of the car. The difference is so slight, though, that most people can't tell the difference. Additionally, the upper arms need not be as strong as the lower arms, allowing the use of less beefy (and expensive) heim joints for adjustable upper arms. This is not a factor for solid welded arms. Brackets for extending the upper rear control used to be sold by Taboo Speed Shop but seem to be discontinued.

In August '99, Ingalls Engineering released a kit for adjusting rear camber on 1Gs using adjustable control arms. They also have a kit using brackets for the same task. Check their website for more information - it's the 3842 kit.

Several vendors also offer camber plates or other solutions for those wanting the ultimate in adjustability. For these, shop around the vendors page for Tiel, Carerra, Ground Control or other make camber plates. 1G owners be warned - they only fit the front.

Vibration problems can be caused by a number of things, including:

• warped brake rotors - see brake wraping,
• badly balanced tires
• flat-spotted tires
• bent or out-of-true wheels
• mud or debris inside the wheel

If repeated tire balancing fails to solve the problem, the tires may not be 'match mounted'. This process ensures the tires and wheels are combined to make the most round combination possible. Since tires are never perfectly round, this can be important.

All good-quality tire manufacturers provide tire markings for match mounting, but sometimes tire shops don't know how to do it. See the Tire Rack Tech Page.

Drivers who experience an oscillating vibration (that starts, fades out and fades in again) may be the victim of flat-spotted tires. As the unbalanced tires rotate (at slightly different speeds), they will phase in and out of balance with each other. The only solution here is to replace the tires.

Using wheel spacers usually requires using longer wheel studs. ARP makes some longer wheel studs available through vendors. 
ARP Extended-Length Wheel Studs: DSM

Replacing the stud is fairly easy;

1. Hammer out the old wheel studs
2. Buy a good amount of thick washers fit the stud. (5-8 should do the trick)
3. Put the new stud through and stack washers on threaded end.
4. Grab an air hammer and with your new lug nut (should be open ended) tighten it down as much as you can with air hammer to pull the stud through.

You may have to heat the hub a little to get the new studs to seat. If you have ABS, be mindeful of the sensor.

Some shops will refinish wheels. If you want to do it yourself, you can do what Dennis Camacho of Canada DSM did:

I just refinished my stock rims and very much pleased with the result. Here's what I did:

- I used a rotating wire brush to loosen that old flaky dull grey finish then I repeatedly soaked them with that automotive paint remover from CT [Canadian Tire] that Scharok mentioned. The old finish is so tough that further sanding is required to expose the aluminum totally.

- I purchased three spray cans of VHT rims paint at Performance Improvements at $11. each. Do not use the MM rims paint from CT. They 're so thin that you'll need at least 6 cans to get the right coating thickness. VHT covered well in just one coat. Follow the instructions on the can for best result.

-If you want to keep the ouside part of the rims in natural aluminum, use a 320 sand paper to remove the oxidized surface then buff to shine with a red rubbing compound using a 4" cloth buffer attached to an electric drill. To preserve the shine, spray a good coat of VHT rims clear coat. As it says on the directions, DO NOT use clear coat on the painted surface as flaking and yellowing will result and it will be most obvious on a white finish. Good luck! 

Here is an archived copy of the "Stock Painted Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Step by Step" VFAQ written by Jeff Brinkerhoff

If you're having problems with a Greddy Turbo Timer, you can check the manual from the Greddy website.

This is a 'feature' of the DSM power steering system, which includes a speed-sensitivity feature that is intended to decrease operating effort at lower RPMs.  This also means poorer response at high RPM, including the low speed/high RPM combinations required forautox.

DSS sells a modified power steering pump that fixes this problem - other vendors may as well.

Victor Del Col has worked out a fix for the high RPM cutout problem on 2G cars. There is a similar fix for 1G cars; a few details are available at this Calgary Area DSM FAQ page, and there is a VFAQ on how to modify the pump here, courtesy of Matt Price. [You would have found the latter VFAQ (hint, hint) had you checked the FAQ Locator.]

WATER:

• If it is water, this is usually caused by the air conditioning condensor drain/dump tube becoming plugged or clogged. Water condensing inside the A/C system runs out onto the carpeting. Cleaning out the tube solves the problem.
   
• Rot on the firewall and water pooling then draining into the car.
   
• Drainage for body panels blocked.

COOLANT:

• Check your heater core connections.

Many people who experience problems immediately or shortly after washing their engine have damaged the crankshaft angle sensor on the car. Without this sensor, the ECU cannot tell what position the crankshaft is in, and the engine cannot run.

Usually, people who wash their engine are able to cover the electrical sensors prior to washing. If this is done, the engine will probably start up fine right after washing. However, driving the car with a wet engine will create steam, which can get inside the crankshaft angle sensor housing. Once the car is shut off, the steam condenses into water, which wrecks the sensor.

Some owners are able to 'revive' their sensors, but most are dead. Some Digesters have investigated if they can be repaired, but so far nobody has been able to do so.

To prevent crank angle sensor damage, either wait until the engine is mostly dry before driving, or drive it for a while and then raise the hood to allow the steam to escape.

Video: (non descriptive) Project DSM Engine Bay Cleaning

Video: Tom's Turbo Garage VR4 Engine Detail

##############################################################
Here is one way to do the engine:

** Important. NEVER USE A PRESSURE WASHER **

Start with a cold engine.
Run the engine until the engine is warm to the touch.
Shut the car off.

Place plastic bags / Saran Wrap / Baggies over the

• Alternator
• Cam Angle Sensor
• any other sensitive electronics

Choices of cleaner:

• Scrubbing Bubbles has been reported to work very well and safe for painted surfaces. I like the Foam as it clings as it cleans and easier to see.
• For more stubborn areas, diluted degreaser (or natural degreaser like orange).

Spray and scrub the engine. Avoid getting water in the electrical connectors.
Use a light mist of water to rinse everything.

Once done, remove the bags and either wait until dry or start the engine (at your own risk) again with the hood up. Let the water evaporate.

OPTIONAL: Once the engine is up to temp, if you like your rubber (and painted parts) shiney (NOT THE BELTS!), spray regular Armor All on them, then go for a non dusty drive. In 30 mins, the heat applied to Armor All will have coated the rubber in shiney even coat.

This is probably the #1 question that people love to hate.  Performance upgrades to the DSM cars have been extensively discussed since 1989, resulting in a easy-to-follow and initially inexpensive upgrade schedules for our machines.  These schedules, when followed, willeventually make your car the Godzilla you've always dreamed of owning.

Before posting questions, please do the following:

• DSMTuners Thread: Basic Horsepower Upgrades - 1G 4G63T
• Check out the Go Faster Recipe for Turbos (1G cars)
• Check out the Go Faster/Turn Faster/Look Faster Pages for Turbos (2G cars)
• Road Race Engineering's suggested 2G DSM upgrade path
• Even more tech guides at DSMtuners.
• Check out Luis Haddock's Newbies Page.
• For handling, read Benjamin Sabini's Shocks & Springs FAQ.
• More handling in the Race Car Dynamics series, written by Dennis Grant.
• A quick reference guide to handling can be found at this FAQ page of the Calgary Area DSM site (mirrored on this site here).
• Auto owners: check out Club DSM Automatic.  (Recommended for MT owners, too.)
• Look at the staged upgrade series from Buschur Racing, Extreme Motorsports, Doug's Dynopower, Archer Racing, and Diamond Star Specialties.
• Look around at the other vendors.
• Read the VFAQs at Tom's site for information on common upgrades.
• Finally, a brief guide to how to drive your new beast can be found at rallycars.com.

The Last Word: Given the current age of these cars, you'd better be prepared to invest in a lot of replacement stock parts to keep everything together during the upgrades.

This is the pretty much same question as [[What should I do to make my car faster, or handle better?]] above.

You will also want to check the Fastest DSM Drag Times page, maintained by James Heck, to see who is running times similar to those you want.  Auto owners can check out the Club DSM Automatic pages for more auto times.

You will likely also need practice.  As one Digest member said:

"The single best investment you can make ... is *seat time* as the adjustment range on the nut behind the wheel is really large. :)"

Including: