Read this post by GAS_MAN on DSMTuners first.
If you want to build your own boost leak tester that won't scare the crap out of you if it blows apart,
check out this video Ultimate Boost Leak Tester
Then follow Oldman on DSMTuners list.
1. Disable your mbc.
2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap. (you will lose pressure if any valves are open)
3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.
4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.
5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)
5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)
6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.
7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.
8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.
The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.
As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance
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