1990-1991 DSMs had pop-up headlights. The popup button raised the lights even if they were off. Since 1992-1994 DSMs did not have pop-up headlights, this switch is not installed. There is a "blank" where the switch would have gone. The installation of such "blanks" is commonplace in automotive design. If desired, a pop-up switch, fog light switch or other stock DSM switch can easily be installed into the "blank" spot to control auxiliary lighting or other special equipment.
It is true that the pop-up switch is slightly redundant on 1990-1991 cars since the headlights pop-up automatically when switched on. It is possible to prevent them from doing so. Owners sometimes want to do this to allow them to look "cooler" when using the headlights as daylight running lights. Others prefer to run the headlights down and use the high beams to make up for the lost light. [Note: The writer of this FAQ does not recommend operating the headlights down at night.]
This may be a symptom of a failing battery - the ABS system can misbehave under low-voltage conditions.
No. Aftermarket pumps are almost always louder than the stock pump - it is one of the prices you pay for getting the increased pump performance. The Walboro upgrade pumps are notorious for this 'problem', while ND and the Supra fuel pump are reportedly a little quieter (but more expensive). Adding soundproofing to the rear of the car should help.
Deatschwerks fuel pumps are turbine based and are reported to be much quieter and are E85 compatible.
The engine control unit (ECU) only does the engine - there is a separate transmission control unit (TCU) that operates the automatic transmission. The ECU and TCU do not talk to each other. The TCU gets information regarding throttle position, RPM, etc. by sharing the same sensors used by the ECU.
One fact that is not mentioned on this page is how to quickly check ECUs *after 1990* for an EPROM. There is a label on the top of the ECU (not the sides). If this label has an "E" in the lower right-hand corner, you have an EPROM. If it has an "M" or "T" in that corner, you do not have an EPROM. 1990 owners have to open the ECU to find out, as there are both EPROM and non-EPROM 1990 ECUs. This tip is also on this page from the developers of the DSMlink.
Galant VR-4 owners, again, have an edge - owing to the low production volume of that model, GVR4s are almost guaranteed to have an EPROM.
Great thread on DSM tuners: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-identify-an-eprom-ecu.337343/
Yes. Mario Pennycooke has done something like this.
Subject: Poor Mans Profec B revealed (Long very long)
From: Blue Talon2
Date: 12 Nov 1997 00:40:52
Well due to the overwhelming popular demand, and despite the voice in the
back of my head that say hey PK this could be a way to make some $$$, I will
once again reveal the oh so simple directions to make you very own Porsche
Killer/Poor Mans Profec B so that you too can enjoy "Boost with a button."
2 DSM boost control solenoids
1 3-way rocker switch
1 Radio Shack IN4004 diode (Not Zener Diode)
Lots of wire
Bag of plastic "T"'s
Extra vacuum tubing
The rocker switch I used was from a set of Eclipse dual fog lights and light
up in either position. Power the rocker switch with a fused igntion wire (I
taped into the radio). Run a two power wires so that the switch turns on one
solenoid in each position. Then wire in the diode as shown in the diagram.
This diode allows power to flow in one direction so that when you flip the
switch in one direction you turn on one solenoid but when you power the
other, both turn on.
You may substitue the 3 way rocker and diode with two individual switches to
control each solenoid. This may give you further boost options.
I have to say thanks Sean RS Costall who gave me the neccessary diode number
as well as made the diagram you seeattached below, because this software eats spaces
The diagram has the switch turning the ground on and off but you may route
the power in whichever direction works best for you. Now come the tricky
Calibration: Remove the hose from the stock solenoid and replace it with a
"T". Connect the two solenoids to this "T" with more hose. To adjust the
boost levels you adjust the size of the "T" and the lenghts and size of the
hoses before AND after the solenoids. Add more hose/use bigger "T"=bleed more
air and get more boost. Yeah I know this can be pain but you only have to do
it once. It took me only four runs to get it right. Calibration is by trial
and error so be very careful and watch your boost gauge.
Originally I had the setup working for 8lbs, 11lbs, and 15lbs. But once I got
Dave's fuel pump I now have it set for 8lbs, 12lbs, 18lbs. Another good part
to the system is that boost spike is minimal since you don't have 12ft of
hose running into the cockpit.
Thats it. Trust me once you set this up you'll never go back to bleeder
valves. Plus you'll laugh at your friends who paid $500 for a "Furry Logic"
boost controller which can't do much more the Porsche Killer Poor Man's
Make sure that you do the knock light at the same time so you'll know when
it's safe to turn the wick up.
Disclaimer: this intellectual property is offered free to the DSM world. Use
it at your own risk. The Porsche Killer is not responsible for you blowing
your engine sky high but will take the credit for you blowing the doors off a
Cobra. This information is for use by DSM owners on their own personal
vehicles and may not be used for profit. Any profits made must be split
between you, me, Sean Costall, and the Todd "all thumbs" Day M3 fund. This
offer is valid in 49 states...sorry Alabama.
90 Talon Tsi Awd 108k
Lots of variations exist.
Use a GM Alternator from any Saturn from 91 to 97 with 1.9L engine (one poster used a 1996 Saturn SC2 dohc alternator). These range from 160 Amps to 200 Amps. Much better than our 90 Amp models.
This DOES require some grinding of parts to make work as well as some rewiring. View the GM Alternator Swap Post on Mitsu Media
1G owners have a two wire just like Saturn Alt.
For 2G owners, the large yellow wire goes to the F(black) wire on the saturn connector and the small black wire goes to the L(black w/ white stripe) on the saturn connector.
If you enjoy running without your lower head shields, Jay Racing makes alternator relocation kits for the alternator. (This will require losing the AC Compressor)
For achival purposes, we have it avalaible as MS Word Mitsu to GM Alternator Swap document
Low beam headlamp
High beam headlamp
Front turn signal
Rear turn signal
High mount stop light
Back up light
There are quite a few things that could cause this.
#1. Check the Power Transistor Unit. (located on the intake manifold generally) This provides signal to coil from ECU and also provides RPM for tach.
#2. Check the Coil Pack.
#3. Your ECU might be taking a dump. Get it tested.
#4. Bad ground or a short.
Diagnosing a No-Start
This guide is obviously not meant to offer a complete list of things that could be keeping your car from starting. However, checking these things BEFORE posting your problem will help us better understand your situation, and give you a better chance of getting the right advice very quickly.
If you donÂ’t have a Factory Service Manual, check out this link: http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/
And we beginÂ…
So, you go out to your car one morning, and, lo and behold, it wonÂ’t start. The DSM Gods must be angry with you. Â…Time to start the diagnostic process. For quick reference, I have sectioned this article off into the basic problem areas by symptom. Find the area (highlighted in Bold) that most closely matches your problem area(s)Â….or just read the whole thing, so youÂ’ll know what to look for on that fateful day, whenever it may occur.
I Â– Does the car NOT crank, or crank slowly?
If the car doesnÂ’t crank at all, or cranks very slowly, areas to investigate include the following, in order of likelihood:
1. Check your battery terminals and cables. Loose, corroded, or broken battery terminals or cables will drain your battery. If the car cranks very slowly, your battery may have some juice left. If not, it may be completely dead.
2. Using a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter), check the voltage on your battery. Red probe goes to the positive post; black probe goes to the negative post. If battery voltage reads low (anything lower than 12 volts is low!), your battery has been drained. This could be due to any number of things. Did you leave an interior light on by mistake? Are your battery terminals loose or corroded? Did your battery ground out on an aftermarket strut bar? Is your alternator going bad? Take your battery to your local AutoZone, OÂ’Reilly, Advance Auto, or similar parts house. Most of these chains offer free battery testing and free charging (especially if you bought your battery from them).
3. If you have an Automatic, is the car in Park or Neutral? If you are M/T, are you depressing the clutch all the way when starting the car? If yes, your Neutral Safety Switch or Clutch Safety Switch (respectively) may be faulty. Refer to FSM for proper testing procedure, or just unplug it.
4. When you turn the key, do you hear the starter click? If not, time to check it. Refer to FSM for complete testing procedure. Check the starter relay first. On a 1g, this is located under the dash, to the immediate left of the steering column. There are three relays down there Â– the starter relay is the one in the middle. With KOEO and clutch depressed, battery voltage should be present at the relay. On a 2g, the starter relay is located near the radio.
5. Check the Alternator fuse (80A in a 1g, 100A in a 2g). This is located in the main fuse box under the hood, and should be the largest fuse in there, making it easy to spot. Careful Â– itÂ’s also the only fuse that is secured by a bolt, so keep this in mind when attempting to remove it. (See image below for location)
6. Pull the upper cover off of your timing belt and make sure you have not snapped or damaged the timing belt. If you are at all in doubt about the condition of the belt, pull it out and replace it. If there is any possibility that you could have jumped timing, run a compression test to verify if (or, more likely, how many) valves were bent.
II Â– The car cranks, but just wonÂ’t start.
There are four main things a car needs to run: Fuel, Fire (Spark) at the right time (Engine Timing), and Compression. Once the car has all of these things, it really has no choice but to start Â– remember, cars are just machines. With a car that cranks but doesnÂ’t run, the first thing you need to do is diagnose which one(s) of these four basic necessities youÂ’re lacking.
1. Checking for Fuel: The DSM fuel system is fairly straightforward. Sparing you the painstaking details, there are a couple of things you will need to do to verify that youÂ’re getting fuel. Try spraying some starter fluid into the cylinders and try to turn the car over. If the car will start, you are most likely not getting fuel.
Start by removing the fuel line from the filter (passenger) side of the rail (Careful! The fuel system is under pressure, and since you canÂ’t start your car, you canÂ’t relieve the pressure in the lines. Keep your face away from the fuel line, and wear protective eye gear. Imagine sticking your face in front of a bottle of champagne before uncorking it. Get the idea?)Â…Stick the end of the fuel line into a clear container and have a friend crank the car (or turn on the fuel pump via the check connector behind the battery). In a normally operating fuel system, plenty of clean gasoline should fill the bottle pretty quickly.
If you donÂ’t see a lot of fuel, or if it looks nasty, change your fuel filter (refer to VFAQ). If nothing comes out at all, you will need to make sure your fuel pump is turning on. Open the fuel filler door and remove the filler cap. Have a friend put his or her ear up to the filler hole and listen as you crank the car (in a 1g, you have to crank it! Putting the key in Â“ONÂ” will accomplish a whole lot of nothing). You can also power the fuel pump via the check connector. Stock fuel pumps will emit a faint buzzing or whining noise when they turn on. Larger aftermarket pumps (especially Walbro) will usually be loud enough for you to clearly hear inside the car yourself. If you donÂ’t hear the Â“whineÂ”, thatÂ’s your problem Â– your fuel pump isnÂ’t powering on. Possible reasons for this include a faulty fuel pump, disconnected or damaged wiring to the pump, or a faulty MPI relay, among a few other things.
If you are getting fuel to the fuel rail and your fuel pump is operating, but the car still doesnÂ’t start, itÂ’s time to consider fuel pressure. Pull the return hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if itÂ’s wet with fuel after cranking the engine. If itÂ’s dry, your Fuel Pressure Regulator could be faulty. Buy or borrow a fuel pressure gauge (these are fairly inexpensive, and can be purchased from any AutoZone, OÂ’Reilly, or Advance Auto, etc.). Follow the manufacturerÂ’s directions and refer to FSM to check the fuel pressure. Remember to remove the vacuum line (small rubber vac line going to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid Â– the one your Boost Gauge should be TÂ’d to) from the fuel pressure regulator and pinch it closed with your fingers (or an adequately sized bolt). The specs youÂ’re looking for are as follows:
1g N/T: 47-50 psi
1g Turbo (A/T): 41-46 psi
1g Turbo (M/T): 36-38 psi
2g N/T 4G63: 47-50 psi
2g Turbo: 42-45 psi
Next, check to make sure your injectors are firing. Measure the resistance at the injector clips with your DVOM. Resistance should read 2-3 ohms at the injectors, and the clips should be receiving battery voltage while cranking. Take a long, rubber-topped screwdriver and place the metal end on top of each injector, and your ear on the other. Crank the car, and listen for a sharp metallic Â“clickingÂ”. YouÂ’ll hear the clicking each time the injector fires. If your injectorÂ’s arenÂ’t firing, try swapping out your Injector Resistor Pack with a known good unit. These donÂ’t usually go bad, but when they do, theyÂ’ll keep the injectors from firing. The ECU may also be at fault here, or the wiring to the injectors may be damaged.
2. Checking for Spark: Before checking for spark, first remove and inspect your spark plugs. Are they improperly gapped or have they been fouled by age, improper fuel mixture, etf? If so, replace them and try to start the car again.
To check for spark, disconnect one of the spark plug wires and attach a spare spark plug (itÂ’s always good to have a spare handy Â– you can use a cheap-o one from Wal-Mart for testing purposes). Place the plug and plug wire onto the valve cover and have a friend crank the car. Do you see spark arcing onto the valve cover? Sometimes itÂ’s best to do this test at night Â– this makes it easier to see the spark. Repeat this test on all 4 cylinders to verify that youÂ’re getting spark all the way across. If youÂ’re not getting spark on some or all of the cylinders, first check the condition of the spark plug wires Â– does the spark try to arc through the wire while youÂ’re testing? If so, the wires are damaged and must be replaced. Next, check resistance at the coil. Specs differ by year, so refer to your FSM for the specs for your particular vehicle. If everything tests out okay and youÂ’re still not getting spark, pull the ECU and check the board for damage due to capacitor leakage. DSMs are not getting any younger, and are notorious for leaking ECU capacitors. One final culprit could be the CAS. These differ by year as well, so again, refer to FSM for appropriate testing procedure and specifications. First, however, you might want to make sure the CAS is not turned 180* out (i.e. Â“on backwards!Â”).
3. Checking Engine Timing: The procedure for checking and setting engine timing is fairly complex, so I will let you refer to the VFAQ for this one. HereÂ’s the link:
4. Checking Compression: Checking compression is another thing that is best covered in the VFAQ. Here you go: http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm
III Â– Fuel, Spark, Timing and Compression are good, but the car still wonÂ’t start!
WeÂ’ve narrowed it down this far, and weÂ’re definitely making progress. There are a couple of things we can check now that will usually Â“seal the dealÂ”.
1. Has your car been sitting for any length of time? If youÂ’ve stored your car, or itÂ’s been down for a while, and now wonÂ’t start, you can bet that the gas in the tank has gone bad. Drain the gas tank via the drain plug on the bottom of the tank, and remove the tank (refer to FSM for exact removal instructions. Remember to remove the fuel pump and all related electrical connectors first. Dropping the fuel tank will take about an hour if youÂ’ve never done it before). Clean the fuel tank with high pressure water and let it air dry IN A SAFE LOCATION (away from any possible danger of sparks or extreme temperatures) for at least 24 hours. Fill the tank with a few gallons of high octane gas, as well as a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner (like Seafoam) and/or Octane Booster.
2. Does the car eventually start, or act like itÂ’s trying to start? Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? This is likely your ECT (Coolant Temperature Sensor). The ECT is the first sensor the ECU looks at when you start your car. The ECU asks it "How cold is it outside today?" and the Temp Sensor responds. The ECU takes that information and decides how much fuel to send to the injectors. If your ECT is faulty, the ECU will either get an incorrect reading back, or no reading at all, and will stay in open-loop, dumping fuel into your cylinders, making your car excessively hard (or impossible in some cases) to start.
The Coolant Temp Sensor is located on your thermostat housing, towards the bottom, on the left/front. It is a two-prong male connector (one prong on a 2g). Inspect the wires going to the sensor first Â– there is a lot of heat down there, and wires can become brittle and snap off of the connectors due to age and extreme temperatures. The following information demonstrates how to check the operation of the ECT on a 1g. For 2g, refer to FSM.
Testing the Coolant Temperature Sensor on a 1g:
Unplug the black plastic clip and turn the key ON (do not start the car). Connect the negative probe of your DVOM to a good ground on the car, and the positive to one of the plugs in the clip. With key ON you should see approx. 4.5-4.9 volts. You may have to try both of the plugs until you find the one that sees voltage Â– one sees voltage and the other does not.
Assuming this checks out okay (99% of the time it will), we will now move on to resistance. Basically speaking, as the temperature of the coolant INcreases, the resistance value will DEcrease.
With the engine cold and the sensor unplugged, turn your DVOM to resistance (ohms) and connect the probes to each of the two prongs on the sensor. The prongs on the ECT will form a sort of "T" shape: kind of like this: | \
With engine cold, resistance should read somewhere between 2,200 to 2,700 ohms (if it's a little higher, it is due to extremely cold ambient temperatures. Somewhere close to this range is okay though).
The next step in this test would normally involve starting the car and getting it up to operating temperature. However, if the car will not start at all (probably the case if youÂ’re reading this), you can replicate this part of the test in a heated dish of water. See below for instructions and necessary water temperatures. If you can get the car to start, plug the sensor back in and start the car now. Get the engine up to operating temperature, and turn it back off. Unplug the sensor again, and repeat the resistance test. (BE CAREFUL, it is VERY HOT down there now). The resistance should now read approx 280 to 350 ohms.
If the car will not start at all, or if you can't quite reach the sensor, you can unbolt the sensor unit and reproduce the testing procedure with a dish of water. If you do this, have a rag or bolt handy to plug the hole you make by removing the sensor -- lots of coolant will come out. You can drain the coolant first if you want to avoid this.
Put the bottom of the sensor (round, gold metal part) into a dish of room temp water (50-80*) and measure resistance. Then, heat the water to approx. 180-200* (not quite boiling), and repeat, using the same resistance values stated above.
If resistance is not within specs, replace the sensor.
Related resistance specs for 2g Turbo engine:
Cold (68*F): 2.1 - 2.7 kOhms
Hot (176*F): 0.26 - 0.36 kOhms
Testing procedure is similar for 2gs. Refer to FSM for complete testing procedure.
Coolant Temp Sensor on a 1990 GSX Circled in Picture (Pay no attention to the letters. But if youÂ’re interested, Â“AÂ” is the Coolant Temp Fan Switch for the A/C, and Â“CÂ” is the Temp Gauge Sending Unit).
There you have it. Chances are, if youÂ’ve tried everything listed here and your car still wonÂ’t start, itÂ’s time to post your problem in the forums for some detailed advice.
An EPROM is an electrically programmable read-only memory, or a type of computer memory that can be programmed only once, but read an unlimited number of times. EPROM ECUs have such a memory IC installed in them. This memory holds the program code that controls the ECU behavior. The EPROM is a separate chip from the microcontroller (computer chip) that actually runs the program. This makes it easy to change the ECU programming, since only the EPROM need be replaced, and EPROMs and their associated programming tools are relatively common.
The alternative, a non-EPROM ECU, does not have an EPROM. Instead, the program is stored inside the microcontroller itself (technically, in embedded EPROM memory that is part of the microcontroller). This makes it hard to change the ECU programming, because the microcontroller needs to be replaced. These are difficult to get, and require special programming tools that are equally difficult to find.
OBD is an acronym for "On Board Diagnostics". OBD-I was version 1, OBD-II is version 2.
It is an industry-standard method of communicating with the onboard engine computer. It was created so that ECUs from different manufacturers would have a standardized communication protocol instead of several different proprietary versions.
Sometimes pre-OBD cars (such as 1G DSMs) are referred to as OBD-I cars. This is not accurate, since they use the ALDL interface. 1995 cars might be OBD-I rather than OBD-II, but since most OBD tools support both I and II the difference is usually not important.
There are actually three different possible interfaces within the OBD-II standard: PMW, ISO, and PMZ. [So much for standardization....] All 2G DSM's use the ISO version of the interface, so any diagnostic equipment used must also support the ISO version of OBD-II.
Using ECM Link: Yes. There is a write up on how to hook up the BCS to the ECU allowing ECM Link to control the boost values. You can set boost by gear, rpm, etc.
Guide on everything related to ECU Boost Control using ECMLink: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/boostcontrol
Here is now to install the BCS: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/bcsinstall
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