Fuel And Lubricants

They should not be tight. They should have rotational play. (but not in and out).

When changing injectors, use new o-rings and lube with a little motor oil.

When bolting in the fuel rail, just snug is fine. Otherwise you you risk cracking the plastic spacers and breaking the fuel rail. It's only aluminum, so you need to be careful.

Here is Dacowgod's post from the DSMLink nitrous controls + meth injection thread from on DSMTuners

By far the best way to engage Methanol with ECMLink is to first upgrade to V3 Full if you do not have it...

1. Dial your car in WITHOUT methanol first. Get the tune right w/ Low boost.

2. Wire up your Methanol pump's relay to engage with the FPS or EGR solenoid wire. (Remember the ECU switches this wire to Ground so you will want to wire this to the ground side of the Relay)

3. I have found it is best to engage based on Load.. Engagement point will be determined by what kind of turbo you have how efficient your intercooler/fuel is, etc. You need to figure out at which Loadfactor you normally start seeing knock and engage it a few points earlier. Sometimes its a little simpler for people to do it by RPM but Full boost really depends on load, so RPM will change. Its also good to point out that LoadFactor tracks Boost pretty well.

4. I usually set MPH range from 5-315 ... This makes the Methanol not engage while on Launch control.

5. Make sure Knock is set from 0 - 20 ... You do not want this to EVER turn off because of too much knock.

6. I usually deactivate with clutch switch and Rev limit.... to try to prevent backfires.. State change limit of 100ms works fine.

Now that your Controls are configured you need to go do a pull... You will notice your AFR's are Much richer (if its working properly) than they were before.... This is where V3 full comes in... Go in to the AuxMaps tab and enable secondary fuel adjustments. 

7. Enable Secondary Fuel Adjustments and subtract a % of global fuel to bring your AFR's back down to where they are supposed to be (remember you are adding fuel with meth, so this is basically telling the ECU about it) so it will still run your target AF/R ...Test and Repeat until you are running your expected AF/R 

8. Dont forget to tick the box To tell it when to apply the Secondary Fuel Adjustment (i.e. When Custom FPS is active if you have Meth wired to the FPS)

That is it if you are engaging with ECMLink. But what if you are not engaging with ECMLink?

I've found it best for your Tunes sake to still inform the ECU that you are adding a secondary fuel source. So what you need to do here is wire up a relay to switch to ground when your Fuel pump turns on... Then wire that "switched ground" To your Idle Switch wire. You can then apply the secondary fuel adjustment for the Meth via IdleSw input... so your tune will still line up accordingly with Meth enabled and spraying.... Progressive controllers will cause a lean dip here though so you should watch the tune and maybe play with the delay a little bit as ramp rate is usually pretty quick with progressive controllers for it to matter much.

If you're still using DSMLink V2 for FPS control... Then you do not get the AuxMaps and Secondary Fuel Adjustment feature... You will be forced to lean it out manually by RPM with the sliders... which will work..I did it for a long time...but it will throw your AFRatioEst right out the window and can cause some odd issues because your engagement point will change based on load.

Short answer: Yes.

For more details on this, Magnus has created a great document 1Gina2G (PDF) 

If that link does not work, we have archived the document 1Gina2G Archive (PDF)

If you are reading this, chances are you are either having a problem with your cooling system, or would like to make it more efficient. Below is a list, both 1G and 2G specific, that can help when making your decision and troubleshooting a failed cooling system. This FAQ focuses on stock-style cooling systems.

Your cooling system consists of 5 major components. They are your Radiator, Thermostat, Radiator Cap, Water Pump and Cooling Fans. We will discuss these in detail throughout this FAQ.

To sum it up, there are only 3 reasons why your cooling system will fail.

1: Lack of flow 
Typically this is caused by a failed water pump, a stuck thermostat, a blocked or clogged radiator. A failed water pump will have the tell tale sign of coolant seeping out of the weep hole. You will typically notice a large pool ofcoolant below your timing belt cover area. Barring any broken hoses from your Oil Cooler, this is usually a sign of a failed water pump. 

A stuck thermostat will reveal itself when your car is at operating temperature, your coolant is full, however your upper radiator hose is cold. Eventually the pressure inside the system will exceed the radiator cap's spring and you will start pushing coolant into your overflow. Change your thermostat.
A clogged radiator will reveal itself when all others fail. Usually, you can visually see debris in between the fins of your radiator. If there is enough of it, it will impede airflow past your radiator, and the efficiency of your radiator will not be sufficient enough to cool your engine. Flushing your radiator is as simple as removing it, pressure washing or hitting it with compressed air to blow the fins clean, then flushing the internals with water. Introducing aftermarket equipment in front of the radiator such as an FMIC or oil cooler without proper ducting will also impede airflow.

2: Lack of Coolant/Incorrect mixture
Typically this is due to a leak of some form. Find it and repair it. Your cooling system travels through a number of areas including your water pipe, turbo (if applicable), Oil cooler, water pump, throttle body, heater core and overflow container.

The ideal mixture is 50/50. That's 50% Coolant (Ethyl Glycol) and 50% distilled water. This mixture works for most driving habits under most conditions, however, most of us do not fall under this "Average" driving habit, and increase of water into your cooling system will allow it to perform better. Water does a fantastic job of removing heat, so the more of it you have, the better. Do not run straight water, your cooling system requires coolant to lubricate and increase the boil temperature of water. A great additive for your cooling system is a product called "Water Wetter", and is found at your local Canadian Tire, Autozone, Part Source, Napa etc.

3: Pressure.
As your cooling system heats up, the water in your system expands and your radiator cap keeps this expansion pressure in your system, raising the boil point of the water. As you drive your car, coolant will be pushed out into your overflow as the system creates pressure. Albeit a small amount, this amount returns to your cooling system once the car shuts off. As the engine cools, it creates a vacuum and barring all the funky Fluid and Thermo Dynamics, replenishes the cooling system by sucking it in back through the overflow via syphon. 

There are mainly 2 reason why your coolant will not be sucked back into the system:

1. Radiator Cap: A poorly functioning radiator cap will allow for too much coolant to be pushed out and/or not enough seal to allow for the syphoning of coolant back into the system. 

2. Overflow bottle/hoses: The overflow bottle should be below or at level with your theromostat housing, and a line inside the overflow bottle that goes down past the normal cold level for your coolant. Cracks or tears in the hose between the overflow bottle and thermostat housing will also impede a suction of coolant, and will pull in air. 

Pressure can also come from the combustion chamber. A failed headgasket will either allow for coolant to enter the combustion chamber and be burned, or push air into the cooling system. Typically, the signs of a failed headgasket would be one or more of the following:

1. Foaming of coolant
2. Burning of coolant (White smoke)
3. Oil in Coolant/Coolant in Oil
4. Overheating condition within 10 or so minutes of driving
5. Overflow bottle filling up/overflowing at operating temperature
6. Coolant being pushed out of the rad cap under boost
7. Lack of return from overflow bottle to cooling system
8. Increase of pressure in cooling system/pushing coolant to overflow. (This can also be attributed to a failed radiator cap)

Lets discuss the 5 components, what they do, how they do it and how to maintain/increase their efficiency.

Radiator
Arguably the most important part of the system, the radiator is a heat transfer device and allows for flowing air through the fins to transfer heat from the engine to the air and dissipate. There are three things you need to remember about your radiator.

1. Airflow
2. Coolant flow
3. Airflow

In order for coolant to pass through your radiator, it must not be clogged. Ensuring your radiator is free from contaminants will ultimately keep it working as efficiently as possible. Your radiator hoses are also a must-maintain part of this important system. Cracked, worn, or soft radiator hoses are just a few heat cycles away from failing. I have personally seen a car cooling after a run down the track and the upper rad hose splitting open before my eyes! 

Airflow is also THE key to a properly working radiator. We add FMIC's, Oil Coolers, Transmission Coolers, Power Steering coolers all in front of the engine cooler and then wonder why our coolant temperatures start to skyrocket. If you look at a stock DSM, you'll notice there are many plastic shrouds all around the radiator. These are there to direct air directly to the radiator, and not let it bleed off from around the car. When adding upgraded components to your car, it is crucial that you imitate these factory shrouds by building your own ductwork to direct air to the radiator. Without airflow, the radiator cannot do it's job. A great test for this is to turn on your fans with the hood closed and see if it will suck a piece of paper to your FMIC. If it can, chances are your airflow is pretty good. 

Thermostat and Radiator Cap
These two critical parts of the cooling system can be the difference between overheating and overcooling. The thermostat keeps the pressure in the system, upping the boil point and keeping all that nice expensive coolant in the car. 
 

Quote:
There are three seals in the rad cap. One on the outside that seals the water neck housing. Second seal is on the inside that is spring loaded and seals inside the water neck housing. This one maintains the pressure in the cooling system. Once pressure builds past 11 lbs with a stock rad cap from the coolant heating and expanding, its pushes past this seal into the over flow until pressure falls back below the rad cap specs.

How does it come back in when it cools ? There is a third seal or valve which works in the opposite direction. Its the round metal thing in the middle of the second seal. When coolant contracts, this valve opens and allows coolant from the overflow to flow back into the coolant system. Under pressure and expansion, this metal valve is sealed shut against the second seal. The cooling system constantly goes through this cycle of expansion and contraction which your driving, the rad cap needs to be functioning properly on order for it to do so.

A 16lb rad cap will cause all your lines to be a little more pressurized than a stock rad cap, but will increase boiling point. You'll notice your overflow coolant level fluctuate more with a 11 lb rad cap than a 16 lb rad cap. I like to keep my cooling system a little more "loose" with the stock rad cap.

-- Credits to Reza Mirza

The thermostat is what regulates your temperature, and oddly enough, the pressure in the system as well. Pressure is defined as a resistance to flow, and the thermostat creates just that. Without a thermostat, you will eventually overheat due to lack of pressure, so keep it in there. Your thermostat can fail both open and closed, and it's pretty easy to figure out what will happen in either circumstance. Installing too low of a temperature thermostat will cause an overcooling condition, which can be just as harmful as overheating. Your ECU depends on the engine getting to a certain temperature for normal operation, and if the car does not get to that temperature, the ECU will always think it's simply still warming up, keeping it in openloop mode. In openloop, the ECU depends on it's internal tables to tell how much fuel to introduce, and typically, this is a rich mixture. Also, the ECU depends on thecoolant temperature to begin learning fuel trims. This temperature is around 180 degrees for a 2G, and 190 for a 1G. Also, using a colder "racing" thermostat to try and combat an overheating problem is rarely the solution. A car that overheats will overheat no matter at what temperature the thermostat opens, it will just take longer for it to happen.

Water Pump
A variable displacement pump, the water pump's job is simple; Keep the coolant moving through the system. The water pump rides on a sealed bearing and is spun by the crankshaft via the alternator/water pump belt. The "weep hole" is a small hole at the top of the water pump and in a failed bearing/pump circumstance, coolant will drip out of this hole. Typically it is best to replace the water pump every time you do a timing belt job, as you need to remove the timing belt in order to do it. Ensuring a good seal between the pump and block as well as between the water pipe and pump will prevent you from having to do the job more than once. Take your time!!

Cooling Fans
Properly installed, shrouded and working cooling fans are critical to not overheating in stop and go traffic. A 1G has a thermoswitch at the bottom passenger side of the radiator that controls the fans on/off, whereas the 2G has an ECU controlled setup. Different combinations of setups can both do the job equally (2 pullers, 2 pushers or one of each). The OEM fans work great, and if you can keep them, do so, however most of our upgrades prohibit such an idea, so they came out with slim fans. In this scenario, bigger IS better. If you can cram a 14" slim fan in there, do it. The more airflow you can provide to your radiator, the better. 

Hoses
Last but not least are all the coolant lines and hoses. As your car ages, so do the parts, and with the expansion/contraction of your coolant lines, the eventually will begin to deteriorate. Check your lines every so often to ensure there are no soft spots, cracks or tears as these are signs of impending failure. The smallest soft spot will eventually lead to a leak or split in the line.

Coolant Mixture
Lets take a look at the coolant mixture. What is the best mixture? Some will say 80/20 water/coolant, some say 70/30, some will say 50/50, but it's all in what works for you and your area/driving style. If you live in a hot area, a 75/25 mix might work, but colder areas require more coolant than water, so a 50/50 is best. Ensuring your coolant mixture is correct, and that the system is full at all times will ensure your car cools itself properly. Air is the enemy to your cooling system, and it ALWAYS comes from somewhere. Be it a cracked line, failed rad cap or improperly burped system, air will cause all sorts of heating/cooling conundrums that can drive a person mad. If everything above is in good working order, you will never get air in the system, period. 

So, there you have it, a basic writeup about a typical DSM Cooling System configuration, how it works and where to start when that temperature gauge starts creeping up on you in 30*C weather in stop&go traffic. I hope this thread has been helpful for you.