This is probably the #1 question that people love to hate. Performance upgrades to the DSM cars have been extensively discussed since 1989, resulting in a easy-to-follow and initially inexpensive upgrade schedules for our machines. These schedules, when followed, willeventually make your car the Godzilla you've always dreamed of owning.
Before posting questions, please do the following:
The Last Word: Given the current age of these cars, you'd better be prepared to invest in a lot of replacement stock parts to keep everything together during the upgrades.
The shift knob is just screwed onto the shifter. Grab it tight and turn it counterclockwise. Use lots of force, it will begin to unscrew. Just screw the new one on, or mount it in place with lock bolts if that is required.
Many 1990-1992 owners find the 1993-1994 shift knob a nice replacement.
Thread pitch on 1G/2G shifter is M10 x 1.25mm
This thread pitch is shared with some mazdas Ex: Mazda 3 Miata MX3 MX5 MX6 Eunos Protégé 5 323 626 Mazdaspeed JDM
This section only covers Speed Density tuning. If you have great resources for MAF tuning, let us know and we will add it.
Getting started with ECMLink is a LOT easier if you begin with the basics.
This SD assistance assumes you have Wideband, MAP Sensor and IAT sensor.
How to setup your wideband using LINEARWB. (YouTube)
Make sure you have your IAT and MAP sensor logging correctly.
Get ready to tune!
EMCLink v2 Tuning DSM ECU w/ MAF (Requires ECMLINK forum membership)
Here is Dacowgod's post from the DSMLink nitrous controls + meth injection thread from on DSMTuners
By far the best way to engage Methanol with ECMLink is to first upgrade to V3 Full if you do not have it...
1. Dial your car in WITHOUT methanol first. Get the tune right w/ Low boost.
2. Wire up your Methanol pump's relay to engage with the FPS or EGR solenoid wire. (Remember the ECU switches this wire to Ground so you will want to wire this to the ground side of the Relay)
3. I have found it is best to engage based on Load.. Engagement point will be determined by what kind of turbo you have how efficient your intercooler/fuel is, etc. You need to figure out at which Loadfactor you normally start seeing knock and engage it a few points earlier. Sometimes its a little simpler for people to do it by RPM but Full boost really depends on load, so RPM will change. Its also good to point out that LoadFactor tracks Boost pretty well.
4. I usually set MPH range from 5-315 ... This makes the Methanol not engage while on Launch control.
5. Make sure Knock is set from 0 - 20 ... You do not want this to EVER turn off because of too much knock.
6. I usually deactivate with clutch switch and Rev limit.... to try to prevent backfires.. State change limit of 100ms works fine.
Now that your Controls are configured you need to go do a pull... You will notice your AFR's are Much richer (if its working properly) than they were before.... This is where V3 full comes in... Go in to the AuxMaps tab and enable secondary fuel adjustments.
7. Enable Secondary Fuel Adjustments and subtract a % of global fuel to bring your AFR's back down to where they are supposed to be (remember you are adding fuel with meth, so this is basically telling the ECU about it) so it will still run your target AF/R ...Test and Repeat until you are running your expected AF/R
8. Dont forget to tick the box To tell it when to apply the Secondary Fuel Adjustment (i.e. When Custom FPS is active if you have Meth wired to the FPS)
That is it if you are engaging with ECMLink. But what if you are not engaging with ECMLink?
I've found it best for your Tunes sake to still inform the ECU that you are adding a secondary fuel source. So what you need to do here is wire up a relay to switch to ground when your Fuel pump turns on... Then wire that "switched ground" To your Idle Switch wire. You can then apply the secondary fuel adjustment for the Meth via IdleSw input... so your tune will still line up accordingly with Meth enabled and spraying.... Progressive controllers will cause a lean dip here though so you should watch the tune and maybe play with the delay a little bit as ramp rate is usually pretty quick with progressive controllers for it to matter much.
If you're still using DSMLink V2 for FPS control... Then you do not get the AuxMaps and Secondary Fuel Adjustment feature... You will be forced to lean it out manually by RPM with the sliders... which will work..I did it for a long time...but it will throw your AFRatioEst right out the window and can cause some odd issues because your engagement point will change based on load.
Total: 375 lbs removed.
Conventional wisdom is that for every 100 pounds you remove from your ride, you shave 1/10th of a second off your ¼ mile E.T. That 12.1 just became and 11.8
There are tons of great weight savings posts on DSM Tuners.
Here is an extreme Weight Loss: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-extreme-weight-loss.261692/
The below weights are copied from DSM Curb Weight FAQ/breakdown post by Aovsi on DSM Tuners.Obviously some parts are required, but this gives you rough idea of parts weight.
Full System, 90 TSi AWD: 35lbs
Full System, 99 GSX: 42lbs
1G Stock metal radiator fan: 6lbs
1G Stock plastic radiator fan: 5lbs
Carpeting, sound deadening material, etc:
Sound Deadening Material Inside Car: 25lbs
Spare tire cover + privacy cover: 20lbs
1G rug in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Each floor mat: 3lbs
Spare Tire and Jack: 35lbs
1G Stock tool bag and tools: 2lbs
Under hood, hood itself:
Hood, 1G Hood: 44lbs
Hood, 2G Hood: 42lbs
LS1 MAF With MAF Ends: 1.5lbs
Charcoal Canister, 90 DSM Turbo: 3lbs
Fog Lights: 5lbs
Stock 2G battery: 42lbs
Oddessy Battery: 14lbs
Crankshaft: 6 bolt stock crank 35.5lbs
Cruise Control: 90 DSM Turbo With brackets and bolts and lines 6lbs
Various Brackets: Firewall brackets, Intake, air can, heat shields etc 10lbs
1G rubber intake with BOV return hose (from turbo to MAS): 3lbs
1G starter: 8lbs
1G Intake Manifold, With EGR Block off plate: 10.5lbs
1G intake manifold with ALL sensors/ICS motor + support bracket + throttle body: 23 lbs
1G AWD Transmission, Complete: 125lbs
1G FWD Transmission: 85lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywhee, unlightened: 19lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywheel, lightened: 14lbs
ACT 2600 Clutch Disc: 3lbs
ACT 2600 Pressure Plate: 10.5lbs
APEXi N1 Silencer: 0.5lbs
Tial 40mm wastegate, With Metal o-ring: 1.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, No muffler: 17.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, Full Catback with Muffler: 37lbs
2G AWD Muffler 19.5lbs
16G turbine housing, ported (made few years back or less time ago): 9lbs
1G 14b original turbine housing, unported: 11 lbs
Evo III exhaust manifold, ported: 12 lbs
Evo III o2 housing, unported: 6.5lbs
1G original o2 housing, unported: 6lbs
1G original exhaust manifold, unported: 10lbs
14b turbo, only center cartridge with wheels+comp. housing, no turbine housing: 5.5 lbs
Seats, safety belts, etc:
1G OEM Front fabric seat plus slider and belt buckle. No belts: 50lbs
1G OEM Front Seat Belt Assembly: 30lbs
1G OEM Rear Seat Belt Assemblies, Speakers and mounting plates: 18lbs
1G OEM Rear Seats (upper and lower, leather): 40lbs
1G OEM Drivers Seat (Leather Adj lumbar): 50lbs
1G OEM Rear seat bottom: 12lbs
1G OEM Split rear seat back: 18lbs
2g OEM seat, cloth, no power: 43lbs
1G middle rear seatbelt mount: 2.5lbs
1G Stock Shocks, each: 12lbs
1G AWD KYB AGX rear struts, each: 5lbs
1G KYB AGX front struts, each: 8.5lbs
1G Stock Springs. each: 6lbs
5-spoke wheel, 1996 GS: 20lbs
95-96 Talon Swirl Rims, With 205-55-16 tire: about 42lbs
97 GSX wheels, 17x6.5, no tires, each: 25lbs
90 Laser stock 16" steel wheels w/very bald Sumitomo Srixon-4, 205/55 tires: 45lbs
90 Talon stock 16" aluminum swirl wheels w/70% tread, Goodyear Eagle RS-A 205/55 tires: 42lbs
Electrical, sound, etc:
Stock Radio/CD Player/Amp: 10lbs
DSM Turbo ECU 1.5lbs
1G Bumper, Stock Metal Bumper Rear 32lbs
1G Bumper, Stock Bumper Front 35lbs
1G License Plate w/bracket: 2lbs
Tail light ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
Rear center piece ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
1G ('90-'91) clear pass/flash-through front headlight trim, with bulb and socket: 1.5 lb
1G ('90-'91) corner/side marker, with bulbs and sockets: under 1.5 lb
Center storage compartment door: 2 lb
Center console one-piece that surrounds the shiftter: 2 lb
Passenger side dash storage compartment door: 2+ lb
Metal brackets that hold up the wood in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Rear Wiper Assembly: 5lbs
Sunroof, Entire 2G glass sunroof assembly w/screws + brackets: 32lbs
Here is a list of items you should mod on your DSM.
FIrst and foremost. Make sure that your DSM is in top shape by ensuring all maintenance has been done and dealing with any other issues. If your tranny/driveline makes noise, adding 200 extra horsepower will probably break it.
Now that your DSM is ready to accept mods, here they are in order of importance.
Fuel Pump (Rewire+Upgrade)
Air Filter (High Flow) + Pipe
ECM Link (ECU Flashing) (go light version if you want to save some money right now)
Turbo + Spark Plugs (May require hotter plug to avoid blow out) Choose a turbo for your end goal.
- 16G (250HP), 20G (300HP), 50TRIM (400-500HP), 60TRIM (500-600HP), etc etc.
3" Exhaust (turbo back)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
By now.. you should be breaking stuff. Upgrade each piece that breaks with something meant to take the punishment. Don't replace a stock transmission on a 500HP talon with another stock transmission. Look at getting hardened transmission.
Have fun and enjoy your forever empty wallet! This is only a suggestion. Take a look at forums and see what other people have done
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