This is probably the #1 question that people love to hate. Performance upgrades to the DSM cars have been extensively discussed since 1989, resulting in a easy-to-follow and initially inexpensive upgrade schedules for our machines. These schedules, when followed, willeventually make your car the Godzilla you've always dreamed of owning.
Before posting questions, please do the following:
The Last Word: Given the current age of these cars, you'd better be prepared to invest in a lot of replacement stock parts to keep everything together during the upgrades.
This is the pretty much same question as [[What should I do to make my car faster, or handle better?]] above.
You will also want to check the Fastest DSM Drag Times page, maintained by James Heck, to see who is running times similar to those you want. Auto owners can check out the Club DSM Automatic pages for more auto times.
You will likely also need practice. As one Digest member said:
"The single best investment you can make ... is *seat time* as the adjustment range on the nut behind the wheel is really large. :)"
Including:
Air intake system | Exhaust system | Turbo upgrade | Boost controller |
Fuel computer | Fuel pump | Brakes | Tires |
Spark plugs | Plug wires | Blow-off valve | Clutch |
Injectors | Roof rack | Hitch | Performance fluids |
Wheels | Stereo system | Alarm system |
or any other parts/modification
These questions have no easy answer as they are all related to how you wish your part/system/car to perform and how much money you are willing to spend. Also, the sheer variety of upgrade parts available prohibits even a partial listing here.
Before posting questions, please do the following:
There are many popular accessories, parts and upgrades for many aspects of the DSM cars. By reading the above material you will get the required basic information and background necessary to make a decision for yourself.
For information on which parts to buy first, look at making your car faster, above.
Including:
Air intake system | Exhaust system | Turbo upgrade | Boost controller |
Fuel computer | Fuel pump | Brakes | Tires |
Spark plugs | Plug wires | Blow-off valve | Clutch |
Injectors | Roof rack | Hitch | Performance fluids |
Wheels | Lights | Audio system |
or any other parts/modification
There are obviously many choices for sources. Local shops often have common items such as plugs, wires and fluids. Don't forget specialty speed shops for more esoteric stuff, such as clutches and fuel pumps. Other retail chains handle audio, cosmetics and accessories. Non-automotive outlets, such as industrial supply stores and aviation equipment vendors, often have equipment which can easily be adapted for DSM use at a fraction of the cost. For a good example, see Brad Baur's Westech EGT installation page, where he installs an EGT originally means for airplanes.
Several vendors specialize in equipment for DSM cars; many have comprehensive online catalogs. Between them all, they offer just about every possible upgrade for both first and second-generation cars. Look around! Check the archives, too, as many people have posted good deals on various parts.
For those who are interested in used parts, be certain to check out the DSM Parts Trader and DSMtrader.com. These classified ad databases specialize in DSMs only, and good deals are not hard to find. Some vendors post their current specials there, too.
Headlight covers | Taillight covers | Spoilers/ wings | body kits |
ground effects | side skirts | window tinting | decals / stickers |
or any other appearance item
With so many companies offering to part you from your money for these accessories, I sincerely hope you don't need to ask this question. Hundreds of shops sell these types of accessories world-wide. Start with your local Yellow Pages. Failing that, a quick web search would have netted you the following manufacturing companies:
There are dozens of other manufacturers, and thousands of retailers. Look around!
Including:
Air intake system | Exhaust system | Turbo upgrade | Boost controller |
Fuel computer | Fuel pump | Brakes | Tires |
Spark plugs | Plug wires | Blow-off valve | Clutch |
Injectors | Roof rack | Hitch | Performance fluids |
Wheels | Lights | Audio system | Thermostat |
any other parts/modification
Probably. Over the past 25 years people have applied a lot of thinking and a great deal of innovation to DSMs.
Before posting questions, please do the following:
Including:
Tune ups | Air filter replacement | Component installation |
Scheduled service | Minor repairs | Major repairs |
The simple answer to this is to buy a shop manual. The manual contains all the information you will need on disassembly, repairs, and maintenance of the Diamond Star vehicles. Go here for information on how to purchase your very own copy.
However, despite their value, not everybody has a shop manual. Additionally, most upgrade procedures, which deal with non-OEM parts, are obviously not covered in the manual. The DSM community being what it is, though, many nice folks have written FAQ and VFAQ files which detail many common upgrades. Take a look at [[Has anybody installed a component?]].
There are several methods. A good starting point for 1Gs is this post by Sean Costall (look for the section beginning "WHERE TO CROSS THE !#@$%@#$^@$#% FIREWALL ON 1G TALONS"). For the more ambitious, Brian Hood has pointer out that this location can also be accessed by removing the driver's side fenderwell (after taking the wheel off, of course).
2Gers should read this one by Brent Cook. There have been comments that 2G NTs may find the steering column boot the easiest to work with, since the other opening mentioned on turbo cars doesn't seem to be present on NTs.
Including:
Air intake system | Exhaust system | Turbo upgrade | Boost controller |
Fuel computer | Fuel pump | Brakes | Tires |
Spark plugs | Plug wires | Blow-off valve | Clutch |
Injectors |
or any other part/modification
This is essentially identical to the installation question, above. If you are having problems with something that you believe is unrelated to your modifications, also check out the NHTSA recall information, and the TSB page to see if there is a Technical Service Bulletin (see the Glossary) about the problem. Don't forget the FAQ locator, and take a look at David Gawlowski's Turbocharger Troubleshooting diagnostic chart for a good look at some common problems and their causes.
Including:
Air intake system | Exhaust system | Boost controller |
Blow-off valve | Turbocharger | Wastegate |
Injectors | Engine Control Unit (ECU) |
and most other components
Most aspects of DSM operation have been thoroughly discussed over the past decade, so most of these questions have already been answered at least once. Please check the main archives, or do an archive search to locate the answers you need, before posting questions to the mailing list. Most answers come from the owners of the shop manuals, which should tell you something. See below for information on how to order your very own copy.
Some popular questions regarding turbos and other components have been answered in Benjamin Sabini's Top Ten FAQ page. Dennis Grant posted an excellent Turbo Fundamentals series, which is a must read on turbo theory and operation. You can also read the Race Car Dynamics series, which details the basics of suspension components.
Having said this, however, there are questions which have not been asked, or perhaps have been asked but not answered in the Digest. Should you find such a question, please do ask, and summarize the responses in a [SUM] posting.
It depends on the component, and what you are trying to do with the car. In most cases, the component (or something similar) is a requirement if you are to meet the performance levels you want. Other parts are a requirement so you are able to accurately monitor the automobile in it's modified condition, and prevent serious problems from destroying your car.
Sometimes the stock components are simply not able to fulfill their requirements, once the automobile has been modified. Prime examples are the 'boost gauge' on turbo models, which does not really measure boost, or the blow-off valve on 2G cars, which is often unable to hold anything more than factory boost levels. Not replacing the blowoff valve will result in a loss of performance, but no real damage. However, altering the turbocharger system without a replacement boost gauge is a recipe for disaster, and is absolutely not worth the risk for a lousy $30 gauge.
A 'boost' gauge is actually a pressure gauge, measuring the amount of pressure in the intake manifold. Problem is, none of the DSM cars actually have a pressure sensor anywhere along the intake path, so the car cannot directly measure intake pressure.
The stock 'boost gauge' actually reads out an educated guess from the ECU as to what the boost should be. The guess is based on RPM and airflow into the engine, both of which the computer does monitor for other reasons.
The guess is reasonably accurate, but is based on the stock engine. As soon as the engine is modified, the intake/RPM relationship changes and the guess is no longer accurate. This holds true even if the only modification is a K&N air filter.
Technically, you do not need to replace the boost gauge unless you are planning to add modifications which change the amount of boost, such as modifying/disconnecting the wastegate solenoid, installing an electronic or manual boost controller or a bigger turbocharger. In this case, you absolutely must have an aftermarket boost gauge installed in your car before proceeding. Failure to install one means you will be changing critical aspects of engine operation without having reliable feedback as to if the changes are safe or not. However, the stock boost gauge will still be unreliable with other engine modifications, such as air filter, exhaust, downpipe, and cat modifications which have only a peripheral effect on intake pressure.
Overboosting the engine can be extremely damaging, even to the overbuilt 2.0 Mitsu four-bangers. Tom Stangl had an unfortunate experience when he accidentally overboosted his engine, resulting in very serious and expensive damage. See here for details. Because of the potential for this type of damage, it is highly recommended that an aftermarket boost gauge be #1 on any DSMers list of modifications.
For more on this topic, see Danny Yoo's boost gauge page, which contains more details as well as links to installation information.
In the United States, it does not do so automatically. According to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has made it illegal for modifications to automatically void your warranty. The important point is that the dealer has to be able todemonstrate that the modification was the cause of the failure. More information can be found at the Specialty Equipment Marketing Association (SEMA) site and the Diesel Injection Service page. You will also want to search the archives for posts by Scott Borders and Jeff Fritz for important highlights of the Act.
However, some dealers are not keen on modified vehicles and may claim that the problem is somehow related to the vehicle modifications. Plus, it is usually better to avoid the entire mess rather than enter an antagonistic relationship with your dealer. Most people recommend talking to the service managers and finding out which ones dislike modifications, and which ones don't mind. Other people install modifications that can be easily reversed, so the car can revert back to stock for each trip to the dealer.
Sometimes, however, you will find yourself in a serious dispute with the dealer. Should it come to this, you will probably need the phone number for either the FTC or SEMA. The FTC, on request, will send out legal information regarding warranty claims. SEMA is actively promoting the MMW Act; more information can be had from SEMA's Steps To Take if Your Warranty Claim is Denied page.
[Tip: you would have already found the SEMA FAQ if you had checked the FAQ Locator.
For audio or electronics enthusiasts, there is also a < href="http://www.cemacity.org/gazette/files/knyrights.htm" TARGET="_top">warranty information page from the Consumer Electronics Manufacturer's Association (CEMA). This page deals specifically with aftermarket mobile electronics and their effect (or, rather, their non-effect) on automotive warranties.
Also keep in mind that different states have different emissions laws in place. By modifying a component that may affect emissions (read: everything engine-related) you may have difficulties with smog checks.
Members outside of the United States may have similar legislation in place; you will have to check with your local authorities for details.
The Last Word: Warranty? What warranty?
Components are largely interchangeable between 1G [1990-94] and 2G [1995-98] cars. However, it is best to check the aspects of a specific component, as detailed in 'Has anybody installed a [component] on a [DSM]?', above. There are a few gotchas between various model years that you have to be wary of. Component swaps between 1Gs and 2G, with few exceptions, should be researched carefully before the attempt is made.
Tread carefully on this one, as there are now additional differences between the automatic transmission and manual transmission cars to worry about. Some components from some years will be interchangeable, but do double-check before buying. Also see "Can I use a [component] from a [model year] on a [different year]?", above. However, as 90% of the stuff is the same between M/T and A/T, the outlook should be viewed as hopeful.
Superchips, Cyntex, Jones Electronic Technologies (JET), GP Performance, and other vendors claim to sell ECU upgrades. However, few DSMers use them.
Many vendors have offered upgrades which are clearly fraudulent. Some vendors, such as Superchips and Richie Broden Racing, have been guilty of selling 'ECU upgrades' with manual boost controllers as part of the kit. In reality, the chips sold with these kits were identical to the stock chips; the performance gains were all by virtue of the MBC. Other vendors have pulled the same trick without including the MBC, counting on human nature to fool the purchaser into believing there is a significant difference between 'their' chip and the normal chip.
Examination of several DSM and non-DSM ECU 'upgrades' by responsible Digest members have revealed no less than seven (7) fraudulent products. Needless to say, trust in these vendors has diminished to nonexistence. Read all about it!
In addition, there are several items that work against ECU upgrades:
A dead giveaway of inflated performance claims, at least for turbo cars, occurs whenever a vendor claims the ECU upgrade provides an increase in boost pressure. This is an impossibility on the DSM cars without additional equipment. Watch for it!
Special disclaimer for non-turbo cars: no DSMer has ever examined the chip upgrades for NT cars in detail, so no opinion on NT ECU upgrades can be drawn from the above information. However, these are the same vendors which sold the 'upgrades' described above. Evidence supporting the effectiveness of chip upgrades for any year, make or model of automobile is scarce; of this, little of it is the result of well-designed and well-documented experimentation.
Fortunately, Technomotive has come up with solutions that actually work, and are accurately aimed at the needs and desires of the DSM performance enthusiast. They also offer the apothesis of all tuning tools: a true DSM datalogger.
XS Engineering also offers legitimate ECU upgrades. Nobody knows how effective they may be, however, and their upgrades are reportedly expensive - about as much as a PMS unit.
The Last Word: Most of the above-mentioned vendors are long since out of this business. TMO used to sell chips, but stopped some years back. Try DSMchips.com, they're the real deal.
The shift knob is just screwed onto the shifter. Grab it tight and turn it counterclockwise. Use lots of force, it will begin to unscrew. Just screw the new one on, or mount it in place with lock bolts if that is required.
Many 1990-1992 owners find the 1993-1994 shift knob a nice replacement.
Thread pitch on 1G/2G shifter is M10 x 1.25mm
This thread pitch is shared with some mazdas Ex: Mazda 3 Miata MX3 MX5 MX6 Eunos Protégé 5 323 626 Mazdaspeed JDM
This section only covers Speed Density tuning. If you have great resources for MAF tuning, let us know and we will add it.
Getting started with ECMLink is a LOT easier if you begin with the basics.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecmlink101
This SD assistance assumes you have Wideband, MAP Sensor and IAT sensor.
How to setup your wideband using LINEARWB. (YouTube)
Make sure you have your IAT and MAP sensor logging correctly.
Get ready to tune!
How To Tune a 1G V3 SD ECMLink with no MAF (PDF) (Archive Copy)
Written By Aaron Ruppert AKA Dr Turbo
EMCLink v2 Tuning DSM ECU w/ MAF (Requires ECMLINK forum membership)
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=513
Here is Dacowgod's post from the DSMLink nitrous controls + meth injection thread from on DSMTuners
By far the best way to engage Methanol with ECMLink is to first upgrade to V3 Full if you do not have it...
1. Dial your car in WITHOUT methanol first. Get the tune right w/ Low boost.
2. Wire up your Methanol pump's relay to engage with the FPS or EGR solenoid wire. (Remember the ECU switches this wire to Ground so you will want to wire this to the ground side of the Relay)
3. I have found it is best to engage based on Load.. Engagement point will be determined by what kind of turbo you have how efficient your intercooler/fuel is, etc. You need to figure out at which Loadfactor you normally start seeing knock and engage it a few points earlier. Sometimes its a little simpler for people to do it by RPM but Full boost really depends on load, so RPM will change. Its also good to point out that LoadFactor tracks Boost pretty well.
4. I usually set MPH range from 5-315 ... This makes the Methanol not engage while on Launch control.
5. Make sure Knock is set from 0 - 20 ... You do not want this to EVER turn off because of too much knock.
6. I usually deactivate with clutch switch and Rev limit.... to try to prevent backfires.. State change limit of 100ms works fine.
Now that your Controls are configured you need to go do a pull... You will notice your AFR's are Much richer (if its working properly) than they were before.... This is where V3 full comes in... Go in to the AuxMaps tab and enable secondary fuel adjustments.
7. Enable Secondary Fuel Adjustments and subtract a % of global fuel to bring your AFR's back down to where they are supposed to be (remember you are adding fuel with meth, so this is basically telling the ECU about it) so it will still run your target AF/R ...Test and Repeat until you are running your expected AF/R
8. Dont forget to tick the box To tell it when to apply the Secondary Fuel Adjustment (i.e. When Custom FPS is active if you have Meth wired to the FPS)
That is it if you are engaging with ECMLink. But what if you are not engaging with ECMLink?
I've found it best for your Tunes sake to still inform the ECU that you are adding a secondary fuel source. So what you need to do here is wire up a relay to switch to ground when your Fuel pump turns on... Then wire that "switched ground" To your Idle Switch wire. You can then apply the secondary fuel adjustment for the Meth via IdleSw input... so your tune will still line up accordingly with Meth enabled and spraying.... Progressive controllers will cause a lean dip here though so you should watch the tune and maybe play with the delay a little bit as ramp rate is usually pretty quick with progressive controllers for it to matter much.
If you're still using DSMLink V2 for FPS control... Then you do not get the AuxMaps and Secondary Fuel Adjustment feature... You will be forced to lean it out manually by RPM with the sliders... which will work..I did it for a long time...but it will throw your AFRatioEst right out the window and can cause some odd issues because your engagement point will change based on load.
Total: 375 lbs removed.
Conventional wisdom is that for every 100 pounds you remove from your ride, you shave 1/10th of a second off your ¼ mile E.T. That 12.1 just became and 11.8
There are tons of great weight savings posts on DSM Tuners.
Here is an extreme Weight Loss: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-extreme-weight-loss.261692/
The below weights are copied from DSM Curb Weight FAQ/breakdown post by Aovsi on DSM Tuners.Obviously some parts are required, but this gives you rough idea of parts weight.
A/C:
Full System, 90 TSi AWD: 35lbs
Full System, 99 GSX: 42lbs
Cooling System:
1G Stock metal radiator fan: 6lbs
1G Stock plastic radiator fan: 5lbs
Carpeting, sound deadening material, etc:
Sound Deadening Material Inside Car: 25lbs
Spare tire cover + privacy cover: 20lbs
1G rug in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Each floor mat: 3lbs
Tools, etc:
Spare Tire and Jack: 35lbs
1G Stock tool bag and tools: 2lbs
Under hood, hood itself:
Hood, 1G Hood: 44lbs
Hood, 2G Hood: 42lbs
LS1 MAF With MAF Ends: 1.5lbs
Charcoal Canister, 90 DSM Turbo: 3lbs
Fog Lights: 5lbs
Stock 2G battery: 42lbs
Oddessy Battery: 14lbs
Crankshaft: 6 bolt stock crank 35.5lbs
Cruise Control: 90 DSM Turbo With brackets and bolts and lines 6lbs
Various Brackets: Firewall brackets, Intake, air can, heat shields etc 10lbs
1G rubber intake with BOV return hose (from turbo to MAS): 3lbs
1G starter: 8lbs
1G Intake Manifold, With EGR Block off plate: 10.5lbs
1G intake manifold with ALL sensors/ICS motor + support bracket + throttle body: 23 lbs
Drivetrain
1G AWD Transmission, Complete: 125lbs
1G FWD Transmission: 85lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywhee, unlightened: 19lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywheel, lightened: 14lbs
ACT 2600 Clutch Disc: 3lbs
ACT 2600 Pressure Plate: 10.5lbs
Exhaust/turbo related:
APEXi N1 Silencer: 0.5lbs
Tial 40mm wastegate, With Metal o-ring: 1.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, No muffler: 17.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, Full Catback with Muffler: 37lbs
2G AWD Muffler 19.5lbs
16G turbine housing, ported (made few years back or less time ago): 9lbs
1G 14b original turbine housing, unported: 11 lbs
Evo III exhaust manifold, ported: 12 lbs
Evo III o2 housing, unported: 6.5lbs
1G original o2 housing, unported: 6lbs
1G original exhaust manifold, unported: 10lbs
14b turbo, only center cartridge with wheels+comp. housing, no turbine housing: 5.5 lbs
Seats, safety belts, etc:
1G OEM Front fabric seat plus slider and belt buckle. No belts: 50lbs
1G OEM Front Seat Belt Assembly: 30lbs
1G OEM Rear Seat Belt Assemblies, Speakers and mounting plates: 18lbs
1G OEM Rear Seats (upper and lower, leather): 40lbs
1G OEM Drivers Seat (Leather Adj lumbar): 50lbs
1G OEM Rear seat bottom: 12lbs
1G OEM Split rear seat back: 18lbs
2g OEM seat, cloth, no power: 43lbs
1G middle rear seatbelt mount: 2.5lbs
Suspension/wheels/steering:
1G Stock Shocks, each: 12lbs
1G AWD KYB AGX rear struts, each: 5lbs
1G KYB AGX front struts, each: 8.5lbs
1G Stock Springs. each: 6lbs
5-spoke wheel, 1996 GS: 20lbs
95-96 Talon Swirl Rims, With 205-55-16 tire: about 42lbs
97 GSX wheels, 17x6.5, no tires, each: 25lbs
90 Laser stock 16" steel wheels w/very bald Sumitomo Srixon-4, 205/55 tires: 45lbs
90 Talon stock 16" aluminum swirl wheels w/70% tread, Goodyear Eagle RS-A 205/55 tires: 42lbs
Electrical, sound, etc:
Stock Radio/CD Player/Amp: 10lbs
DSM Turbo ECU 1.5lbs
Exterior:
1G Bumper, Stock Metal Bumper Rear 32lbs
1G Bumper, Stock Bumper Front 35lbs
1G License Plate w/bracket: 2lbs
Tail light ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
Rear center piece ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
1G ('90-'91) clear pass/flash-through front headlight trim, with bulb and socket: 1.5 lb
1G ('90-'91) corner/side marker, with bulbs and sockets: under 1.5 lb
Interior:
Center storage compartment door: 2 lb
Center console one-piece that surrounds the shiftter: 2 lb
Passenger side dash storage compartment door: 2+ lb
Metal brackets that hold up the wood in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Misc:
Rear Wiper Assembly: 5lbs
Sunroof, Entire 2G glass sunroof assembly w/screws + brackets: 32lbs
Here is a list of items you should mod on your DSM.
FIrst and foremost. Make sure that your DSM is in top shape by ensuring all maintenance has been done and dealing with any other issues. If your tranny/driveline makes noise, adding 200 extra horsepower will probably break it.
Now that your DSM is ready to accept mods, here they are in order of importance.
Fuel Pump (Rewire+Upgrade)
Air Filter (High Flow) + Pipe
ECM Link (ECU Flashing) (go light version if you want to save some money right now)
Boost Controller
Injectors
Turbo + Spark Plugs (May require hotter plug to avoid blow out) Choose a turbo for your end goal.
- 16G (250HP), 20G (300HP), 50TRIM (400-500HP), 60TRIM (500-600HP), etc etc.
3" Exhaust (turbo back)
Intercooler
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Cams
By now.. you should be breaking stuff. Upgrade each piece that breaks with something meant to take the punishment. Don't replace a stock transmission on a 500HP talon with another stock transmission. Look at getting hardened transmission.
Have fun and enjoy your forever empty wallet! This is only a suggestion. Take a look at forums and see what other people have done
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