Just replace the supports - it's not hard. They are available at JC Whitney, Canadian Tire and other automotive supply stores. The respective shops can look up the correct part number for you.
Read Tom Stangl's VFAQ on the subject for everything you need to know about how to do it.
To help prevent the struts from wearing out prematurely, James Williamson suggests not 'helping' the hatch rise by pushing it upwards. This apparently helps keep the pressurized gases inside the struts.
Many owners, both 1G and 2G, have had problems with paint. Certain owners have found the clearcoat layer of the paint turns to powder, making black cars appear grey. Others have had problems with cracking, flaking, or imperfections in the paint.
Those who have problems can sometimes get satisfaction from a dealership - Chrysler and Mitsubishi are dealing with complaints on a 'one-on-one' basis. Dealers will sometimes repaint the affected areas for free. Unfortunately this is not a recall, and usually the car is out of warranty, but it's worth a shot. 1995 owners may have an edge, as there is a TSB for this problem on 1995 cars only (TSB-95-51-001), but it's still not a recall.
There is a nationwide class-action lawsuit being brought against Chrysler for paint problems. Check out the Hagens Berman website for some more information on this lawsuit. You can also read Kim's Peeling Paint Page for more links relating to the problem. Kim apparantly took Chrysler to court over her paint problems, and has advice which is generally applicable to all automotive problems. The class-action lawsuit is not a substitute for trying to work out problems with your local dealer.
Hey, it's a used car, and probably an old one at that. Most of them will have flaking clearcoat somewhere.
There are several things you can try to fix headlight lenses that have become cloudy, yellowed or scratched. Click on the method to find the referring poster:
Robert Thompson had this to say regarding his headlight polishing experience (edited):
"Cataract Surgery on a 1993 TSi
Had to repeat this 3 times!
The results? Well, to start, my lens looked like they had been sand blasted. Millions of little craters that had blended and smoothed into a dull crappy looking plastic lens. You really could not look into the light and see a bulb. (I was amazed as just how crappy they were when I sat down and really looked at them)
What made this job a lot easier to do was I have a Black & Decker "Mouse". So I just strapped on the appropriate adapter and buzzed away....
Speaking of the Dremel, DO NOT use it for this project. You can't get it to turn slow enough and in a nano second you will "burn" the lens. (Gee, how would I know? Well... It takes about 30 min to sand out the burn.)"
Be sure the check the FAQ Locator for up to date information.
Replacement headlights are available on eBay. Just replace them.
There is a TSB for this problem, number TSB080795, NHTSA Item Number: SB039984. Unfortunately, no summary or listing of this TSB is currently available on the web. (Anyone who is willing to take the time to separate the 1995 DSM TSBs from the 1995 Sebring/Avenger TSBs should contact Todd Day for information on obtaining a copy of the TSB reference book.)
One DSMer suggested simply sticking a pin into the vent hole on the windshield washer reservoir cap. The stock hole is so small that it is hardly visible, and can easily get clogged. Cleaning or enlarging the hole keep pressure from building up in the system.
It is likely that the drain hoses underneath the sunroof are plugged. You can unpluf them with some stiff, flexible cord like 18AWG wire or weed-eater line.
The correct jacking points on any unibody car for the front end are always the pinch weld closest to the front wheels. For the rear of a unibody car, it is also, you guessed it! Closest to the wheels. The metal is reinforced and double layered only at those points for a reason. So you can jack up the car on the reinforced part.
The majority is failing to understand is that you can't put jack stands/jack on the rocker panel around the pinchweld. You have you use a jack or jack stands on the actual pinch weld or things will get crushed and the underside of the car will be very damaged.
The proper way would to jack the car up on those jacking points, then put a jack stand on the lower control arm or crossmember closest to the wheels, as long as you're not disassembling around those points obviously.. Also remember that using small blocks of 2x4 as a cushion helps a lot.
Some members who have admired bumper grilles on other cars have found an inexpensive copy in a product called "Gutter Guard", sold at Home Depot. This chromed grille can look very good when installed behind the DSM bumper. Doubters need only examine this photo from Canada's own Mark Scheitzbach (the "Purple Plymouth Guy") that shows his car with the grille installed.
Jim Tomarchio recommends you investigate a company called Eastwood that sells restoration and touch-up products. Also, at least one DSMer has successfully obtained interior paint from a dealership.
Tristan Santoniello recommends you use acrylic paint and clear coat on the panels, using 3-5 coats of each. He also suggests you remove the panels completely before trying to paint them. Another DSMer suggests vinyl paint, again using several coats until you can get a smooth coat, and sanding lightly between each coat. The sanding helps the paint stick to the previous coat.
The exterior decals, for all that they stay on the cars for years, are not that hard to remove. The same applies to dealership stickers, which many DSMers prefer not to have on their car.
To remove the stickers, usually all that is needed is a little heat from a hair dryer. A heat gun may also be used, but beware - the gun can develop much higher spot temperatures than the hair dryer and could damage the paint. The same can be said of using a cigarette lighter, but both methods can be used successfully with due caution.
After the sticker is hot enough, scrape it off with a plastic tool. You can also try and use fishing line. A little WD-40 or bug n' tar remover with some elbow grease will take off the residue.
The following vendors sell them. There may also be others. This list may be out of date.
If you're having problems finding a kit, try Google.
Those seriously interested in a kit will want to read Richard Howell's complaints against his Andy's Autosport body kit.
Many people have done this. It is not difficult to do. The process is essentially the same as installing white faces, described above.
Converting the stock needles to a different color simply involves scraping the orange paint off of the bottom of the needles. They can then be repainted in any color. The backlighting color may also be changed. There is a VFAQ on the process here; also try the results of this Google search.
This is possible, at least for 1990-1991 models. You need to swap the front garnish (between the headlights) and change the Chrysler rear clip for the Mitsubishi one. However, the Mitsu parts will go exactly where the Chrysler parts were without any need for modification.
Yes, it can be done. Digest writers recommend that the spoiler come from a like-styled car - a 90-91 Talon spoiler for 90-91 Lasers, and a 92-94 Talon spoiler for a 92-94 Laser. Cross-body conversions may also be possible, but you must verify that the spoiler will fit beforedrilling holes into your car. Information on this subject is limited - Laser owners often prefer their car without the spoiler, so it doesn't appear that this is a popular conversion.
This can be done too, but it is a significant amount of trouble. It appears that most people purchased the front end they wanted with their car, as information on this modification is limited.
According to Paul Bratina:
"The following parts must be replaced: hood, fenders, headlights, side marker lights. The front bumper can be kept (as in my case) but must be slightly modified. Replacing the bumper with a 92-94 makes the conversion easier. Replacing the hood is strictly bolt-on. The fenders are bolt-on except for where they attach at the very front (easily accommodated). Mounting the headlights (and to a lesser extent, the side marker lights) is by far the hardest part of the conversion, and is definitely not a bolt-on procedure. I certainly wouldn't consider it technically difficult. Mostly just time consuming.
I think it's worth mentioning a little bit about the costs involved in the conversion. First, assuming you get all the parts necessary at the wreckers, the parts alone would run somewhere in the $500-$1000 area. (Of course, some of this cost could be recovered with the sale of your old parts.) Then you have the issue of repainting the car. Unless one is interested in a multi-coloured car (all the various body parts that were necessarily replaced), I consider repainting the car to be absolutely mandatory. So whatever the paint job costs, could theoretically be added to the cost of the conversion. In my case, I was going to be repainting the car anyway, so that cost didn't "count". I really feel the thought process on this conversion should be something like: "I'm going to get the car repainted and while I'm at it, I'll throw in a conversion." Not the other way around--you know, do a conversion and throw in a paint job."
A quick & dirty method for keeping the headlights down is to remove the fuse that controls the headlight motors, or to rewire them under manual control. This keeps the lights down when they are on, and thus is sort of a 'non-popup' mod.
The Last Word:: George Johnson adds:
"I looked for what I believed to be a good amount of time for the popup to non-popup conversion wiring schematic. I apparently failed to find it, so I figured you might like to add it into the answer to the swap.
Solid Red Solid Red
Red w/Blue Stripe Red w/Blue Stripe
Red w/White Stripe Black
Turn signal/running light assemblies will interchange." [Thanks, George!]
Yes. You would already know this (hint, hint) if you looked at the FAQ Locator, or the archives. Tom Stangl has a VFAQ on this subject. Go there now.
Not many people have done this change, since it for appearance only. Canadian DSMers are more likely to find it attractive, since the Eclipse is not sold in Canada.
According to Micheal Wong, you will need the following parts to convert a 1995-96 Talon exterior to a 1997 Eclipse exterior:
This list is likely not comprehensive.
Morgan D'Antonio did this swap on his 1995 Talon, using 1997 Eclipse parts.
Option 1: Order a new front rad support unit from
Please make sure you order the proper year / model.
Option 2: Some members have reportedly remove the entire front support and created a tubular cross member. See image of custom tubular cross member [archive copy]. This will require AC delete as there is no support for condenser (unless you custom fab extension)
Partially Rusted Option:
Members have cut out the affected area and replaced with a cutout from donor car. Many believe that a solid weld will affect crash, but as the lower section is one solid piece, as long as you are replacing only that and not touching the spot welds, there should be no ill effect.
There is a post on DSMTALK 2G Window Rattle Fix about this but it is missing the pictures. I have found the pictures on the interwebs and have incorporated them into this PDF document. (along with some extra information)
PDF w/ Images: DSM 2G Window Rattle Fix
Stop sitting on your open doors. Your door is out of alignment.
The doors are roughly 70lbs with everything installed.
Step 1. Remove front fender (or buy the tool that gets around the door hinges)
Step 2. Open door halfway and support it midway using a jack with 2ft long piece of wood with padding on top (old towel). Jack up gently to get weight off the door.
Step 3. Loosen hinge to body bolts.
Step 4. Jack up about 1 inch higher than level.
Step 5. Retighten. Lower jack, GENTLY try and close door. Readjust up or down as required..
There are tons of great weight savings posts on DSM Tuners.
Here is an extreme Weight Loss: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-extreme-weight-loss.261692/
The below weights are copied from DSM Curb Weight FAQ/breakdown post by Aovsi on DSM Tuners.Obviously some parts are required, but this gives you rough idea of parts weight.
Full System, 90 TSi AWD: 35lbs
Full System, 99 GSX: 42lbs
1G Stock metal radiator fan: 6lbs
1G Stock plastic radiator fan: 5lbs
Carpeting, sound deadening material, etc:
Sound Deadening Material Inside Car: 25lbs
Spare tire cover + privacy cover: 20lbs
1G rug in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Each floor mat: 3lbs
Spare Tire and Jack: 35lbs
1G Stock tool bag and tools: 2lbs
Under hood, hood itself:
Hood, 1G Hood: 44lbs
Hood, 2G Hood: 42lbs
LS1 MAF With MAF Ends: 1.5lbs
Charcoal Canister, 90 DSM Turbo: 3lbs
Fog Lights: 5lbs
Stock 2G battery: 42lbs
Oddessy Battery: 14lbs
Crankshaft: 6 bolt stock crank 35.5lbs
Cruise Control: 90 DSM Turbo With brackets and bolts and lines 6lbs
Various Brackets: Firewall brackets, Intake, air can, heat shields etc 10lbs
1G rubber intake with BOV return hose (from turbo to MAS): 3lbs
1G starter: 8lbs
1G Intake Manifold, With EGR Block off plate: 10.5lbs
1G intake manifold with ALL sensors/ICS motor + support bracket + throttle body: 23 lbs
1G AWD Transmission, Complete: 125lbs
1G FWD Transmission: 85lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywhee, unlightened: 19lbs
DSM 7 Bolt Flywheel, lightened: 14lbs
ACT 2600 Clutch Disc: 3lbs
ACT 2600 Pressure Plate: 10.5lbs
APEXi N1 Silencer: 0.5lbs
Tial 40mm wastegate, With Metal o-ring: 1.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, No muffler: 17.5lbs
2G AWD Catback, Full Catback with Muffler: 37lbs
2G AWD Muffler 19.5lbs
16G turbine housing, ported (made few years back or less time ago): 9lbs
1G 14b original turbine housing, unported: 11 lbs
Evo III exhaust manifold, ported: 12 lbs
Evo III o2 housing, unported: 6.5lbs
1G original o2 housing, unported: 6lbs
1G original exhaust manifold, unported: 10lbs
14b turbo, only center cartridge with wheels+comp. housing, no turbine housing: 5.5 lbs
Seats, safety belts, etc:
1G OEM Front fabric seat plus slider and belt buckle. No belts: 50lbs
1G OEM Front Seat Belt Assembly: 30lbs
1G OEM Rear Seat Belt Assemblies, Speakers and mounting plates: 18lbs
1G OEM Rear Seats (upper and lower, leather): 40lbs
1G OEM Drivers Seat (Leather Adj lumbar): 50lbs
1G OEM Rear seat bottom: 12lbs
1G OEM Split rear seat back: 18lbs
2g OEM seat, cloth, no power: 43lbs
1G middle rear seatbelt mount: 2.5lbs
1G Stock Shocks, each: 12lbs
1G AWD KYB AGX rear struts, each: 5lbs
1G KYB AGX front struts, each: 8.5lbs
1G Stock Springs. each: 6lbs
5-spoke wheel, 1996 GS: 20lbs
95-96 Talon Swirl Rims, With 205-55-16 tire: about 42lbs
97 GSX wheels, 17x6.5, no tires, each: 25lbs
90 Laser stock 16" steel wheels w/very bald Sumitomo Srixon-4, 205/55 tires: 45lbs
90 Talon stock 16" aluminum swirl wheels w/70% tread, Goodyear Eagle RS-A 205/55 tires: 42lbs
Electrical, sound, etc:
Stock Radio/CD Player/Amp: 10lbs
DSM Turbo ECU 1.5lbs
1G Bumper, Stock Metal Bumper Rear 32lbs
1G Bumper, Stock Bumper Front 35lbs
1G License Plate w/bracket: 2lbs
Tail light ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
Rear center piece ('90-'91 Talon): 2 lbs
1G ('90-'91) clear pass/flash-through front headlight trim, with bulb and socket: 1.5 lb
1G ('90-'91) corner/side marker, with bulbs and sockets: under 1.5 lb
Center storage compartment door: 2 lb
Center console one-piece that surrounds the shiftter: 2 lb
Passenger side dash storage compartment door: 2+ lb
Metal brackets that hold up the wood in rear hatch: 2.5lbs
Rear Wiper Assembly: 5lbs
Sunroof, Entire 2G glass sunroof assembly w/screws + brackets: 32lbs
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